French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by poorsod, Apr 28, 2013.

  1. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,320
    Likes Received:
    227
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    

    I'm perfectly fine with hearing multiple opinions, but don't appreciate you foisting your argument on others and expecting (insisting) others accept it when it doesn't sound right as you so impolitely put below. Or when there are glaring inconsistencies, or your poo-poohing statistics.


    1) On the stats thing indicating purchasing behavior: "Not long ago the British footwear brand George Cleverley took its wares to Singapore for a trunk show. It was a test-the-waters experiment, since the south-east Asian city-state is not a centre for bespoke shoe-wearers (locals tend to favour easy-on slippers). The Cleverley crew rented a hotel suite and stacked it with whisky and multi-thousand-pound, Goodyear-welted shoes made from exotic skins. Clients came to stare and sip. And then something unexpected happened: Cleverley sold more shoes in one day at that trunk show than on any other day in its 53-year history."

    http://www.ft.com/cms/s/2/e206ebf6-2cb6-11e1-aaf5-00144feabdc0.html#axzz2U9Xj4aWL

    The Rake in a Singapore publication.

    How the rich in Singapore spend.

    2) Singapore is a multi-racial society comprising of 4 ethnic groups. As homogeneous as KL.

    3) No comments on Point 3.

    4) Not sure which shopping mall you're referring to, tbh. But check out Marina Bay Sands in Singapore

    5) Any how might they have judged that? (Btw, I'm beginning to think that you don't really have a clue about how the wealthy in Malaysia and Singapore behave and spend).

    6) That's definitely plausible -- a point I made in my original comment

    7) Eustace Tilley's comment about partnering up with a KL partner seems quite likely and is often how niche brands venture into the local market. Berluti partnered up with Club 21 (a major luxury retailer in Singapore) before coming away from Club 21 having tested the market, risk-free.
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2013
  2. Fuuma

    Fuuma Franchouillard Modasse

    Messages:
    25,855
    Likes Received:
    10,377
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2004
    

    Look, I'm not trying to be hostile, it's just that your point is: Singapore is much richer. I already understood your point, it's not crazy but all I am trying to do is to say why CdL might have chosen KL, we cannot get further than that what we already said and at this point it is merely a thread derail. If I had been asked where CdL would open and had 2 mins to answer KL wouldn't have been in my top 5 (Id, have thought mainland China for some reason) but here you go, they went there, just offering some semi-plausible explanations, you just seem pissed they didn't chose Singapore and I can't do anything about that.
     
  3. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,320
    Likes Received:
    227
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    Why'd I be pissed they didn't choose Singapore? Doesn't make a difference to me. I'm just using Singapore as an illustration of why I'd have thought that a great many number of cities (like Singapore, like Brunei, like Shanghai) would be a better springboard into Asia (SEAsia).

    And I just didn't think your reason -- Gulf state tourism -- was carrying the day, or even the reason why CdL decided to set-up in KL. But ET's point abt local-partnership definitely seems plausible.

    My main point isn't that Singapore is richer. It's that, I think there are many other cities that would be a better springboard (from an economic perspective) into Asia, KL not really being one of them, though a local partnership where it is risk-free (or minimal risks) for CdL definitely makes economic sense and swings the pendulum.

    Thanks for your opinion, though, about Gulf-state tourism in KL. That's smth new.

     
    Last edited: May 24, 2013
  4. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

    Messages:
    4,059
    Likes Received:
    756
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    Guys, please keep the thread on topic. That's enough speculation on CdL's strategy. The article is over a year old. Perhaps someone local can see if the KL outpost ever came to fruition.
     
  5. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

    Messages:
    8,049
    Likes Received:
    417
    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2009
    Location:
    New York City, NY, USA
    

    I can definitely agree that Kuala Lumpur is usually overlooked. I think the first time I went to Kuala Lumpur was 1992?. I was expecting what I saw in Bangkok instead I end up seeing an more exciting version of the then nice clean but dull Singapore (to the eyes of 10 years old). Taipei looked dull back then as well.
     
  6. fassbinder

    fassbinder Senior member

    Messages:
    122
    Likes Received:
    82
    Joined:
    May 18, 2006
    Really tired of the KL discussion. Let’s try not to ruin a good thread with ridiculous back and forth arguments. I will try to get this thread back on topic. Here are some pics of a Di Fiore suit I am wearing today. I apologize in advance for the crappy iphone photos taken in favorite igent spots (toilet and elevator). Cloth is Harrison’s hounds tooth worsted flannel.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Petepan

    Petepan Senior member

    Messages:
    1,525
    Likes Received:
    452
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2012
    Guys, interesting thread, but just so you know, dont pick an argument with bboyswhatcamacallit. He is royally anal and has an infantile pride in his fondness for arguments. It will go on and on unless he has the last word. He has good form on other SF threads and also the Kerbau forum.

    One royally "classy" mofo.
     
  8. marburymadison

    marburymadison Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    60
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2011
    Location:
    US of A
    Can you stop shitting up the thread when it's back on topic?
     
  9. Petepan

    Petepan Senior member

    Messages:
    1,525
    Likes Received:
    452
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2012
    Sure, just wanted to give a quick heads up to avoid further derails. You can kindly do the same instead of posting redundant shit.
     
  10. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

    Messages:
    337
    Likes Received:
    261
    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2012
    Location:
    dirnelli.tumblr.com (Paris, France)
    Gentlemen,

    Just to set the record straight:

    The article that started this thread derail is completely out of date, written at a time when Camps de Luca were contemplating doing something in Asia, thanks to an opportunity with a local partner, but nothing ever came of it.

    Today, in Asia, the son named Charles de Luca travels regularly to Beijing, Hong Kong, and Singapore, to visit clients and to do trunk shows. That's it. The only official location is the Paris showroom.
     
  11. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    19,145
    Likes Received:
    3,253
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2007
  12. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

    Messages:
    8,049
    Likes Received:
    417
    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2009
    Location:
    New York City, NY, USA
    

    I like the jacket, quite clean, now a question for you guys. How do you think the French cut will look on shorter guys. All the ones I have seen so far has quite a bit flare in the skirt, I like it, but given my height I would think it would make me look short. My logic is for you to create that flare in the skirt you need length to extend it out otherwise a short skirt flaring out looks ridiculous.
     
  13. fassbinder

    fassbinder Senior member

    Messages:
    122
    Likes Received:
    82
    Joined:
    May 18, 2006
    Actually the jacket skirt is only slightly flared. The more exaggerated flare in the second photo is do to my crappy photo angle and for whatever reason I was holding both my elbows up which also created a bit of a pull at the buttoning point (i'm also probably a bit fatter than when i had the coat made) . In a more normal standing position the flair is more similar to the third photo (unfortunately my jacket was not buttoned). I made a last minute decision to try steer the thread back on course, so the quality of the photos were really an afterthought.

    Concerning your general question/statement. Certainly the Cifo jackets I have seen have a bit of a skirt flair, more so than Di Fiore. Whether or not they work with shorter people is not something I have ever considered. I'm sure if everything else is in proportion it would be fine. In general I think French jackets are a bit shorter than English jackets.
     
  14. gambit50

    gambit50 Senior member

    Messages:
    438
    Likes Received:
    67
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2012
    Location:
    Hipster Doofusville
    



    Height does not matter so much as your body proportions. I realize shorter people tend to have proportions that might not be as flattering as taller people but you are dressing yourself, not a norm.
    The French are not tall(and neither are Italians) so I would not worry about your height. If you are built like a bowling ball, that might be an issue.
    I don't find any of the 'house' styles to be so extreme that someone with reasonable proportions would look like a fool in their suit.
    Also, they know what they are doing and will do what is possible to make it come out well. Granted,I cannot see any decent tailor cutting a suit making anybody who is 160cm and 100kg look better than someone who is 190 and 90kg or hell, someone else who is 160cm and 50kg.
    Also, I don't think the flaring is that extreme. Fassbinder's pics are crap.



    Thanks for rerailing the thread. And, yes, your pics are poor but the real problem is that they should have been in the toilet IN the elevator.
    This is SF, the bar is high.
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2013
  15. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

    Messages:
    337
    Likes Received:
    261
    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2012
    Location:
    dirnelli.tumblr.com (Paris, France)
    clee1982 -- Seamaster Lux is size US34, not tall, and his French bespoke suits all look great as you can see on www.paul-lux.tumblr.com

    Fassbinder -- Thanks for getting the thread back on track. I have some questions re Di Fiore, which is at the top of my list of tailors to try next (I'm from the breed of #menswear geeks who tries everybody once, unlike some of my buddies who stay true to one house for a lifetime):

    1) How long ago did you have the suit made, and how much did it cost?
    2) What other experience do you have with French tailors? Could you make some comparisons? I'm interested in knowing where Di Fiore sits on construction -- I understand he is more of the Italian school of lighter & supple construction.
    3) How did you learn of Di Fiore and what drew you to him?
    4) How would you rate the overall customer experience there?

    Thanks.
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2013

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by