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French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

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Griffindork

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Cifonelli comes to NYC 4-6 times per year. There doesn't seem to be any way to predict exactly when they will show up, but generally there are a few visits from March through May and then a few visits from September through December. Sometimes they come back-to-back months and sometimes not. It is always Lorenzo that visits NYC now, not Massimo. Generally you will get an email a few weeks before a planned visit asking if you would like to meet and sometimes specifying the current stage of a previous order (e.g., "your tweed will be ready for a 2nd fitting").

Lorenzo shows up with a few fabric books and all the basics of business suitings for various seasons will be covered with books from reputable houses, but if you have something specific or sporty in mind it is better to ask for fabric samples to be sent in advance. They have access to much more than they bring, of course, and are happy to send swatches.

It can take a few visits to receive a garment (particularly if it is a first garment or something dramatically different than what you typically order) so if you need something by a particular date I would make that very clear at the outset. Otherwise, sometimes things will be ready and sometimes they won't, and orders are not always filled in the order received (although they are always filled). Sometimes if a garment is close Lorenzo will do an alteration overnight in his hotel room and let you pick it up the next day, but getting it right always comes before getting it quickly.

My experiences have been top-notch and I'd highly recommend it. I'd also note that it is pretty low-key, and while Lorenzo is typically very busy when he comes to NYC, you could probably find a time to just stop by and look around even if you aren't sure you want to order. There is never any pressure.
 

ThinkDerm

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Cifonelli comes to NYC 4-6 times per year. There doesn't seem to be any way to predict exactly when they will show up, but generally there are a few visits from March through May and then a few visits from September through December. Sometimes they come back-to-back months and sometimes not. It is always Lorenzo that visits NYC now, not Massimo. Generally you will get an email a few weeks before a planned visit asking if you would like to meet and sometimes specifying the current stage of a previous order (e.g., "your tweed will be ready for a 2nd fitting").

Lorenzo shows up with a few fabric books and all the basics of business suitings for various seasons will be covered with books from reputable houses, but if you have something specific or sporty in mind it is better to ask for fabric samples to be sent in advance. They have access to much more than they bring, of course, and are happy to send swatches.

It can take a few visits to receive a garment (particularly if it is a first garment or something dramatically different than what you typically order) so if you need something by a particular date I would make that very clear at the outset. Otherwise, sometimes things will be ready and sometimes they won't, and orders are not always filled in the order received (although they are always filled). Sometimes if a garment is close Lorenzo will do an alteration overnight in his hotel room and let you pick it up the next day, but getting it right always comes before getting it quickly.

My experiences have been top-notch and I'd highly recommend it. I'd also note that it is pretty low-key, and while Lorenzo is typically very busy when he comes to NYC, you could probably find a time to just stop by and look around even if you aren't sure you want to order. There is never any pressure.
This sounds awesome
 
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My experiences have been top-notch and I'd highly recommend it. I'd also note that it is pretty low-key, and while Lorenzo is typically very busy when he comes to NYC, you could probably find a time to just stop by and look around even if you aren't sure you want to order. There is never any pressure.
Sounds great... does anyone know if they also bespoke dress shirts? I have asked but was told that they do accessories and am not sure
 
G

Griffindork

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Cifonelli doesn't do bespoke shirts as far as I know. They have a ready to wear line that's sold Barneys, and I suppose they might have something at the RTW boutique in Paris with which I'm not familiar. But the way it's always been explained to me is that Cifonelli bespoke means that the fabric was cut by someone with the last name "Cifonelli," and Lorenzo and Massimo cut suits, not shirts. There are a lot of great tailors there but only two cutters.
 
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^wish I could help, but I don't know much about that piece

I know this is about French tailoring, but anyone have any opinions on French bespoke shoes...? Philipe Atienza, for instance? I'm putting together my first Paris visit and I'm wondering...
 

aristoi bcn

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^wish I could help, but I don't know much about that piece

I know this is about French tailoring, but anyone have any opinions on French bespoke shoes...? Philipe Atienza, for instance? I'm putting together my first Paris visit and I'm wondering...
If money isn't an issue, John Lobb Paris and Berluti (where Anthony Delos works) are probably the best in terms of finishing.

Atienza, Gomez and Corthay are also up there to Cleverley/Foster level.

Corthay and Berluti are probably something apart when it comes to creativity. You wouldn't find their designs anywhere else.

The others are classically french, so to say, much more modern than their british counterparts but not as much as Corthay and Berluti.
 
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If money isn't an issue, John Lobb Paris and Berluti (where Anthony Delos works) are probably the best in terms of finishing.

Atienza, Gomez and Corthay are also up there to Cleverley/Foster level.

Corthay and Berluti are probably something apart when it comes to creativity. You wouldn't find their designs anywhere else.

The others are classically french, so to say, much more modern than their british counterparts but not as much as Corthay and Berluti.
With Berluti, do you just call to set up an appointment?

And for both JLP and Berluti, do you literally have to show up in Paris for bespoke? If not, how does the shoemaking process work? Do they measure in say, NYC, and then send to headquarters or?
 

aristoi bcn

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With Berluti, do you just call to set up an appointment?

And for both JLP and Berluti, do you literally have to show up in Paris for bespoke? If not, how does the shoemaking process work? Do they measure in say, NYC, and then send to headquarters or?
To you first question, I guess so, yes.

To the second, I don't know if they do trunk shows in the States but the process would be the same. The work is done in their workshop in Paris in any case.
 
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To the second, I don't know if they do trunk shows in the States but the process would be the same. The work is done in their workshop in Paris in any case.
The reason why I asked is because I had actually contacted them and in the USA we have a guy named Paul Wilson in NYC who apparently bespokes shoes there? Or maybe I am mistaken, but at any rate that's what their website says. I had also contacted them and was under the impression that they did work there too. I guess my confusion stems from there being John Lobb Paris, the brand, and then also John Lobb Paris, the location in Paris, which apparently also has a separate set of makers.
 
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Griffindork

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The reason why I asked is because I had actually contacted them and in the USA we have a guy named Paul Wilson in NYC who apparently bespokes shoes there? Or maybe I am mistaken, but at any rate that's what their website says. I had also contacted them and was under the impression that they did work there too. I guess my confusion stems from there being John Lobb Paris, the brand, and then also John Lobb Paris, the location in Paris, which apparently also has a separate set of makers.
That's right - for JLP Paris in the United States you are measured and fit by Paul Wilson, who has been at Lobb Paris in NY for many years and prior to that was at John Lobb UK. He is a true bespoke shoemaker even though he no longer makes lasts, and he's very good. Your last will be made in Paris just as if you were measured there (and in fact you can be measured there of course). Paul is located in NY but travels to other Lobb US stores regularly. The shoes are very good. I've had several pairs where I went with non-laced options that have taken a good deal of tinkering and the back and forth with Paris is time consuming, but the end product has always been great. The price changes annually every January based on exchange rates, and sometimes it goes down. There is an additional cost to the first pair for making the last (roughly $1000 if I remember). Exotics take a long time because of the documentation necessary to import (so they say).
 

Texasmade

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That's right - for JLP Paris in the United States you are measured and fit by Paul Wilson, who has been at Lobb Paris in NY for many years and prior to that was at John Lobb UK. He is a true bespoke shoemaker even though he no longer makes lasts, and he's very good. Your last will be made in Paris just as if you were measured there (and in fact you can be measured there of course). Paul is located in NY but travels to other Lobb US stores regularly. The shoes are very good. I've had several pairs where I went with non-laced options that have taken a good deal of tinkering and the back and forth with Paris is time consuming, but the end product has always been great. The price changes annually every January based on exchange rates, and sometimes it goes down. There is an additional cost to the first pair for making the last (roughly $1000 if I remember). Exotics take a long time because of the documentation necessary to import (so they say).
This is correct. I ordered a pair in March 2017 and price was $7k with half due up front. Paul Wilson did my measurements in March in the Houston boutique and then the cut away trial shoes in May. Had this been my 2nd pair the price would've been $1100 cheaper.

Measurements and photos were taken in March and sent to Paris to make the lasts and trial shoes. They were then shipped to Houston where Paul did the cutaways and made some more markings. Now they're in production stage and supposedly it will be late 2017 or early 2018 when my shoes are ready. If you want to do bespoke, it's preferred you setup an appointment with Paul rather than just show up. I doubt he'll turn you down if you do but it's just a courtesy to set up an appointment so he knows to be in the store when you're there. If not then he might be out on a smoke break, helping another customer, or whatever.

I know one of the Paris boutiques, you have to setup an appointment to do bespoke because the bespoke guy isn't there everyday.
 

krakatoa

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Following SeamasterLux's slightly disappointing experience with Kenjiro Suzuki two years ago, has anyone else here commissioned with him (and willing to share the experience, either on the forum or in PM)? Thanks.
 

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