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French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

HighToned

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Video interview of Lorenzo Cifonelli by Gentleman Chemistry :

0.jpg
 

HighToned

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French House Hermès is buying French menswear luxury leather manufacture Seraphin...
 

SimonC

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...but will the Saturn that is Hermès resuscitate or devour its conglomerate son?


Well Seraphin has made for Hermes for a long time now - they probably just wanted control like they did with the company who made hats for them...
 

Dandy Wonka

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Well Seraphin has made for Hermes for a long time now - they probably just wanted control like they did with the company who made hats for them...

I wonder if they will only supply to Hermes then.
 

HighToned

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Hermès strategy is to control the supply chain and avoid external supplier.
 
Last edited:

Dandy Wonka

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Hermès strategy is to control the supply chain and avoid external supplier.

So do you think they will still let Seraphin supply other shops.

When I go to Paris in September I am on the lookout for a leather jacket. I was going to go for a Seraphin, Berluti or Zilli. See which feels best on.
 

HighToned

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Yes, right now they just bought minority stakes of Seraphin.

They will let Seraphin collection... But it's question of time. ; (
 

clee1982

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I saw the Cifonelli RTW collection at Barney's today. They have at least 2 different jacket styles. The one that really piqued my interest was a sport coat with the prominent sleevehead (presumably the "Le Cigarette" style for which they are known).


1000


There is very little padding in the shoulders, most of the extra material is in the sleevehead. I think the silhouette is flattering on me, though quite different from the other coats I own. IMO the pattern and material doesn't go with the silhouette but made me reconsider ponying up the $$$ for Cifonelli bespoke.

There were other coats in the collection with a more generic shoulder expression that hold little interest for me.

The round label is sewn in like the bespoke. Does the bespoke version have an associated functional pocket or is it just for show?

The lapel buttonhole is a nicely done Boutonniere Milanese.


This one is on Barneys Warehouse for ~$900, too bad they don't have 36, 38S is mighty tempting though...
 

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