French Facing

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by The Louche, Dec 15, 2009.

  1. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

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    I read an article in Forbes Life last night about french facing. Frankly, the article wasn't written very well; the author failed to clearly explain just exactly what french facing is. From context, I am guessing that French facing simply means that there is minimal lining and all of the interior seems and overlay (forgot the correct term for seam allowances) are finished, a la Oxxford. Am I correct?

    The article also indicated that many french-faced garments do without a canvas. A local haberdasher once told me that Oxxford costs are un-canvassed but I never believed him b/c he is a con man.

    Does Oxxford practice french facing? If so, are french-faced Oxxford coats made without a canvas?
     
  2. Taxler

    Taxler Senior member

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    Usually refers to a double faced jacket; Parts of the inside are finished with another layer of exterior fabric rather than a lining. I have an Oxxford jacket done that way, and it's canvased.

    The extra weight of fabric might reduce the need for a canvas, so it may/may-not have one.
     
  3. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

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    So canvas is optional with french facing?
     
  4. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  5. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

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    Canvas is always optional.

    Maybe I should have said "is interlining optionaL..."
     
  6. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    I read an article in Forbes Life last night about french facing. Frankly, the article wasn't written very well; the author failed to clearly explain just exactly what french facing is. From context, I am guessing that French facing simply means that there is minimal lining and all of the interior seems and overlay (forgot the correct term for seam allowances) are finished, a la Oxxford. Am I correct?

    The article also indicated that many french-faced garments do without a canvas. A local haberdasher once told me that Oxxford costs are un-canvassed but I never believed him b/c he is a con man.

    Does Oxxford practice french facing? If so, are french-faced Oxxford coats made without a canvas?



    I think that French facing could refer to two practices.

    In both instances we are dealing with either half or quarter lining.

    I heard the expression of French finishing refer to the finishing of the coat's center seam. A tape is sewn on the two edges of the center seam to cover the part of the seam that is folded-over. The color of the tape, which is lining material, is different from the coat's cloth. Generally, both the edge and the tape are machine sewn. It can be a nice touch.

    Oxxford does not do this because it hand sewns each edge. If you flip-up the edge you will see a series of "X" stitches along the edge.

    I have also heard French facing refer to the technique were coat cloth was used for the front interior lining rather than Bemberg. I have an Oxxford summer sportsocat with this facing. Generally, this is done only on summer cloths.

    A French faced coat would have canvas in the chest, lapels, collar, and front in order to give the coat shape. Even a summer coat would have canvas. Otherwise, the coat would be as limp as a shirt.
     
  7. bigbris1

    bigbris1 Senior member

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    Yes, French facing implies a tape sewn to finish the inside seams, mostly seen with partial/non lined coats/pants.
     

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