Fray dress shirts?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by davei, Nov 6, 2002.

  1. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    When buttons are made of mother of pearl, they sometimes have troca(sp) on the botom. This means that there is red spots, and such on the bottom surface.
     


  2. davei

    davei Senior member

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    That's the right spelling. Troca is the result of cutting too deep into the shell (you get past the pure white into the outer layer). Thicker shell > deeper cut > more buttons > less expensive shirt.

    Doesn't Oxxford use water buffalo horn for their shirt buttons? Are they as thick as Fray's MoP?
     


  3. BjornH

    BjornH Senior member

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    Well - this seems not to be quite correct. I did a little research and found out that troca and mother-of-pearl is not the same thing. Both have a nice shine to them but mother-of-pearl is much more pleasing to look at and has much deeper texture. It is made from oysters but troca is made from other shells and generally has a white, spotted layer at the bottom. The only shirt in my closet sporting m.o.p. buttons is my Turnbull and Asser shirt - all others have troca, or in some cases, plastic buttons. I was fondling a Armani Collezione shirt today and, at a price of USD 160, had neither m.o.p. buttons nor cross stitching. I guess I was supposed to look at the Armani label, not trying to find quality.... p.s. Take a look  at http://www.jantzentailor.com/ - it is a fun read for shirt fans if you can stand a little broken english (besides mine.). Cheers, Bjorn
     


  4. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

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  5. davei

    davei Senior member

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    p.s. Take a look  at http://www.jantzentailor.com/ - it is a fun read for shirt fans if you can stand a little broken english (besides mine.).
    I just checked that website out and find it hard to believe their shirts are $38. Has anyone ever ordered from there? If they really are $38, then I'm about to order like 5 of them.
    $1HK = 13 cents US, so that's why they're ~$40 [​IMG] I'm thinking of ordering a bunch myself, the number of options is quite dizzying... only problem: insecure ordering. Â No way I'm sending my American Express # through a simple form mail.
     


  6. Stone

    Stone Senior member

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    Real mother of pearl buttons feel cool/cold to the touch all the time - that's how you can tell.
     


  7. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There is another way of telling which my grandmother told me: Hold button against your teeth. Mother-of-Pearl feels harder, plastic or resin feels softer than your teeth. You feel it instantly. (Yes, I had a grandmother who taught me all the finer points of gracious living.)
     


  8. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    Your grandmother is absolutely right, just be careful not to be caught in the act by wary salespeople. Pearl also has a gritty texture you can discern by touching.
     


  9. High_Roller

    High_Roller Senior member

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    Alright. So now, do fake shirts have mother of pearl buttons?
    I found a white Versace dress shirt with imprints of the greek key, leaves and madusa prints on it. It is an extremely beautiful shirt and I don't know why anyone would have brought it in to a second hand store. I was skeptical to if it was real or not. I did the biting test and felt the buttons and they are mother of pearl. Would designer imposter shirts have these buttons? Or is this a real Versace?
     


  10. pstoller

    pstoller Senior member

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    Chances are it's a real Versace. Bootleggers are unlikely to go to the expense or trouble of matching buttons exactly to the original.

    People bring surprising items into thrift shops for a variety of reasons, including change of taste, change of size, the ex left it behind, the owner passed away, a store or designer donated overstock, and so on. I've found all sorts of things in thrift shops that you wouldn't believe.
     


  11. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    Really, What have you found in various thrift shops?
     


  12. pstoller

    pstoller Senior member

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    Lord, I can hardly remember, there's been so much. You name it. Prada, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Armani, Versace, Cavalli, Malo, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, Comme des Garçons, Valentino, Missoni, Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, John Bartlett, John Richmond, Paul Smith, Helmut Lang, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dries van Noten, Luciano Barbera, and, as the King of Siam would say, "etcetera, etcetera, etcetera." No Kiton yet, but I'll keep looking.
     


  13. Timothy

    Timothy Senior member

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    Pstoller is it possible that you found any of the listed labels on the East Coast? If so can you direct me to some good second hand stores? I am in the Harrisburg PA area, but willing to travel as far as Philly, and/or DC area to check places out. Thanks.
     


  14. pstoller

    pstoller Senior member

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    Well, not in thrift shops. I did find such labels in consignment shops, which are considerably pricier than thrift, though far less than retail. However, all my east coast shopping was in NYC and the surrounding areas. The closest shop to you I visited was the Last Call outlet in Philly. Virtually all my thrift shop finds have been in L.A.
     


  15. High_Roller

    High_Roller Senior member

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    Well, the reason I was so surprised to find something like that in a local thrift shop is beacause I live in a tiny town. We don't havce any designer boutiques here, and no one really wears designer labels, so when I went into the store, I didn't expect to find anything. I left with that Versace shirt, a Versace Jeans Couture shirt and a Gianni Versace Couture blazer, all of which are beautiful, so I do go back now and then, I've found Hugo Boss, Yves Saint Laurent, and a weird Paul Smith shirt that had like a spray paint graffiti tecnique on it.. I didn't buy any of those. I went back again and saw a suit jacket by Krizia, but I don't know much about the brand.. and a whole suit by Gianfranco Ferre Studio, but they hiked up the price a bit, and since im in the position where i don't have to wear suits, I didn't buy it.
     


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