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Frank Shattuck Bespoke Suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by aportnoy, Mar 19, 2007.

  1. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Senior member

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    Could someone explain to me the advantage of the extra material in the back (as indicated below):

    [​IMG]

    Similarly, what is the advantage of the extra material in the pants (as indicated below):

    [​IMG]

    I am no expert in these matters and I am looking to learn, not criticize.


    You're kinda grumpy aren't you?
     
  2. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You're kinda grumpy aren't you?

    What? Those are fair questions.
     
  3. Countertenor

    Countertenor Senior member

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    Well, now that you've had the suit for a few months, care to cut it open and show us the guts? [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  4. Sator

    Sator Senior member

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    The excess in the trousers just means that the back rise is too long relative to the front. I have found this to be a common problem with every tailor I have used.



    I am a bit late to the party but it took me a while to find time to take these pictures. These are the brace trousers of my new Adamo Marrone suit (charcoal grey). The cut is based on an old pair of trousers that came with a frock coat suit dating from circa 1910-20. The pattern has been tweaked to fit me better and the rise at the back made even higher:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I haven't even bothered to put my braces on and yet they sit almost perfectly on me.

    In any case there are obviously other factors other than the length of the back rise.
     
  5. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    [​IMG]


    How high are those pants in the front? From the side view, it looks like they must be hitting your ribcage.

    Are you wearing a watch with a metal bracelet as opposed to, if not a pocket watch, at least one with a leather strap?!?
     
  6. Sator

    Sator Senior member

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    They are only about midwaist in height at the front - not quite as high as the ribs! They sit as high as the old brace trousers on whose cut they are based. Most importantly they are comfortable.

    I do have a vintage pocket watch and chain. However, I only slipped these trousers on to take the pics and neither sock nor shirt nor any other accessory are chosen to match.
     
  7. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    They are only about midwaist in height at the front - not quite as high as the ribs! They sit as high as the old brace trousers on whose cut they are based. Most importantly they are comfortable. I do have a vintage pocket watch and chain. However, I only slipped these trousers on to take the pics and neither sock nor shirt nor any other accessory are chosen to match.
    Just messing with you, I am surprised by how modern that watch looks - Rado? [​IMG]
     
  8. Sator

    Sator Senior member

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    Just messing with you, I am surprised by how modern that watch looks - Rado? [​IMG]

    Yep - well spotted. It is sleek, plain and minimalistic so I'm quite fond of it. All in all I have little interest in watches although I also have a Longines.
     
  9. Connemara

    Connemara Senior member

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    So when are you going to chop this up and show us the guts Andrew?
     

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