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Former AE CEO Paul Grangaard launches online MTM shop

unsuitable

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So I am not really a "personality CEO" guy but I would try a business on the basis of Paul Grangaard's name alone. I was an AE customer before, during and after Mr. Grangaard and I will buy him a stone fence at any bar I see him at (if the bartender has real cider and can make one). I think he proved he is much more than "money man" and I put him in that rarest of categories as a Leader.

I looked at two of the suits and the fabric seemed to be VBC fabric (Vitale Barberis Canonico).

Features I like:
  • pick stitch detail on lapel and pockets
  • Sub $1000 USD price (At least as of 9/18/18)
  • Made in USA (I'm not wearing a red hat or anything, but I support local products when possible)
  • Local tailor allowance (I presume both literal and fiscal?)
Features I dislike:
  • Polished faux horn buttons (are real horn buttons that hard to work with?)
  • Flat front suit pant (I have extensive "rear assets" that necessitate some pleats if I am going to look like a grown up)
I encourage someone to try a suit and report back, if you are in the market. I have far too many issues that make me quite unsuitable as a good MTM candidate (+12in Chest to Waist differential, +4 Ape index, Goofy long torso, Stubby legs, Monumental posterior, etc). I am essentially a cartoon character writ large (Think Bluto without the beard but much less attractive). My suiting endeavors involve a 2 to 3 step process whereby a great tailor eventually threatens to; resign, commit murder, or commit suicide just before getting it wearable. I apologize for not taking this challenge on myself.
 

gj555

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Look like suits are made by Southwick. So, the question is whether you can get a Southwick MTM suit elsewhere with comparable cloth for under $950?
 

Kevin24

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Def Very interesting.

Disappointed to see they don't do full canvas though esp. given the price. Even though I'd be willing to pay a couple of hundred more for that option.
 

peppercorn78

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Def Very interesting.

Disappointed to see they don't do full canvas though esp. given the price. Even though I'd be willing to pay a couple of hundred more for that option.

Southwick can do a full canvas. Mike from Epaulet talked about this. Thing is... do you really want one? I’ve got a Chester Barrie sport coat with a full canvas and it just feels more stiff. I dunno. Of course Chester Barrie may use stiffer, denser horse hair.

I’m not sure if this company will take advantage of it that option. I think it’s a 150-200 upcharge. Not certain, though.

Glad to see Paul Grangaard sticking with menswear. He’s a great guy who values customer relationships.
 

Caustic Man

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I think the felt stiffness of a jacket depends on a lot of things, canvas included. There are certainly fully canvased jackets that are very soft indeed. But more than that I think it's indicative of the what suit making is trending as well because we tend to expect things to be more and more soft as time goes on. Maybe it's the influence of Italian styles, and so on. The point being that there is nothing wrong with a, shall we say, stouter feeling jacket. Unless it interferes with movement and draping that is.
 

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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

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