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formalwear Q: waistcoverings and problems matching to jacket lapels

makewayhomer

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I have just found my tuxedo, a Paul Stuart peak lapel (satin I think), one button, single breasted, ventless number. I now need to accessorize. b/c I am a portly fellow, I think the option to go Daniel Craig style won't work for me. I need either a cummerbund or waistcoat, and am leaning towards waistcoat. question is, if I take of my jacket and am dancing, will a backless waistcoat look bad? should I only focus on waistcoats with a back, and if so, wear do I go about buying one? I have about 6 months to shop so would rather not pay full retail, but if I must I will. also, black or white? all silk is ok? I assume cotton pique or grosgrain is out, b/c it should match the lapels? I am in Boston, have looked at Keezars, that's actually where the tux is from 10/31 update: I am still looking for a waistcoat, and found this new RLPL waistcoat on ebay, and I really like the styling, and it's in my budget. I really don't want to spend hundreds or more on my waist, but $150 or so is fine however, it is silk grosgrain, and my lapels are NOT grosgrain. how large of a crime would wearing this with my tuxedo be?
 

Ianiceman

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Don't even think about taking your jacket off. It will either show the workings of a backless waistcoat or the workings of your cummerbund. This is why I don't like wing collars, besides them looking shite they expose the buckle adjuster of your bow tie.

I'm not a fan of waist coverings but it looks like your best bet is a full waistcoat. Don't try to match your suit. Maybe either ecru, bottle green, burgundy?
 

Ich_Dien

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Originally Posted by Ianiceman
Don't even think about taking your jacket off. It will either show the workings of a backless waistcoat or the workings of your cummerbund. This is why I don't like wing collars, besides them looking shite they expose the buckle adjuster of your bow tie.

I'm not a fan of waist coverings but it looks like your best bet is a full waistcoat. Don't try to match your suit. Maybe either ecru, bottle green, burgundy?


Buy a bow tie without an adjuster, problem solved.
 

Ianiceman

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Originally Posted by Ich_Dien
Buy a bow tie without an adjuster, problem solved.

Doesn't solve the problem of the wing collar looking shite!
 

makewayhomer

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T
Originally Posted by Ianiceman
Doesn't solve the problem of the wing collar looking shite!

Turndown collar
 

LaoHu

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Originally Posted by Ianiceman
I'm not a fan of waist coverings but it looks like your best bet is a full waistcoat. Don't try to match your suit. Maybe either ecru, bottle green, burgundy?

Not sure colored waistcoats with evening wear is a great idea. My inclination would be to stay with black.
 

Kajak

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Originally Posted by LaoHu
Not sure colored waistcoats with evening wear is a great idea. My inclination would be to stay with black.

Attempt to have the fabric match the lapels on your jacket, not the cloth, as that will be impossible (unless you still have fabric from when you had the jacket made).
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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Originally Posted by LaoHu
Not sure colored waistcoats with evening wear is a great idea. My inclination would be to stay with black.
White can also be good. But it must be a low-cut waist-coat, not a high-buttoning 5-button thing, whatever the colour is. (It feels like this is the 5th time in a week that I've made this same post...)
 

makewayhomer

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Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum
White can also be good. But it must be a low-cut waist-coat, not a high-buttoning 5-button thing, whatever the colour is.

(It feels like this is the 5th time in a week that I've made this same post...)

Where is the best place to buy one?
 

SkinnyGoomba

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There should be a fabric # on your tuxedo and Paul Stuart can ether match that to an existing waistcoat or possibly have one made for you with the same fabric.

No one who has enough class to wear a Paul Stuart tuxedo should consider wearing a colorful waistcoat.
 

Jsoftz

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http://www.blacktieguide.com/
Good guide here. Check out the "Buying" section, Supplemental retailers.

Yeah, please just wear a black waistcoat. Something like this:



If you want to go cheap... you can go to a place like Chilbert online and get a backless waistcoat for like $45. I had a wedding awhile back to attend and I needed one cheap and quick and got one of those, and it's okay. As a warning, being portly you will constantly be readjusting it throughout the night.. mostly pulling it down, "Picard Maneuver" style. If you can find a vest that has one of the little loops on the inside to secure into your waistband, that is best- it will keep it pulled down.

I don't know what kind of shirt you have but it is helpful to have the little tab on your shirt, too, to secure it to your pants. Keeps you looking good throughout the night with movement, etc. Please don't take your jacket off- especially if your shirt has a starched bib, you'll just look ridiculous.
 

makewayhomer

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Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba
There should be a fabric # on your tuxedo and Paul Stuart can ether match that to an existing waistcoat or possibly have one made for you with the same fabric.

No one who has enough class to wear a Paul Stuart tuxedo should consider wearing a colorful waistcoat.


Right the only question is black or white...but Im leaning towards black
 

Jsoftz

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Originally Posted by makewayhomer
Right the only question is black or white...but Im leaning towards black

Yes, do black. Black will slim you a bit, white actually will draw emphasis to your waistline.
 

SkinnyGoomba

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If it's black you'll have to source the waistcoat through Paul Stuart to get the satins and coloring correct.
 

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