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Formality scale for suits or ties?

J011yroger

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What is the formality scale from most casual to most formal for suits and ties.

For suits Madras<Seersucker<Linen<Tweed......<Solid Navy/Charcoal<Solid Black<Dinner Suit<Morning Dress<White Tie

But in the middle are all sorts of flannel, pinstripe, chalkstripe, windowpane, glenplaid, houndstooth, nailhead, velvet, cotton, wool.

And colors, is Heather Gray<Medium Gray<Navy<Charcoal<Black about right? Where do various browns fit in?

Two piece sack<Two Piece<Double Breasted<Three piece?

I know it is a lot of work, but it would be nice to have one comprehensive list with color, cloth, weave, style, and pattern.

Same for ties.

Knits, chunky wool/tweeds, and linen would be at the bottom of the list; neats, reps, and paisleys duking it out in the middle; solids, grenadines, and so forth towards the top with pindots and other tiny patterns just below; black and white bowties towards the top. Where do other bowties fall? Is a neat more formal than a rep stripe?

I just think it would be a great resource, this is for a walk in the park, this is for work during the day, this is for dinner in a nice restaurant, this is for a wedding, this is for the opera. And one could say anything from point X to point Y on the scale is suitable for this occasion.

Personally, I buy stuff that I like and so I end up with duplicates (upon duplicates, upon duplicates) of things I rarely have occasion to wear, and sometimes not enough (ok, too much by normal human standards, I admit that I have a problem) of things I often have occasion to wear.

Is this doable? Can we come to some sort of loose consensus?

J
 

GBR

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Depends entirely upon the occasion as to what might be formal or otherwise for each. A list is of little help and you should always dress appropriately.
 
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J011yroger

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I'm fairly certain you misunderstood my intent. I just want to rank the garments.

Example is glen plaid more or less formal than windowpane.

Is Rep stripe more or less formal than neat.

J
 

Bellemastiff

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Quote: I almost wonder if it depends on context. For instance, what is more formal/informal in academia might be slightly different than in the corporate world; also, I'd guess there'd be differences in the USA vs UK vs. Italy...
 

Academic2

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You appear to believe that degree of formality is determined by a single variable: fabric.

That’s not the case. There are a lot of variables in that equation. I notice also that you're combining more than one variable in your list of suit fabrics: e.g., "navy" is a colour but "tweed" is a cloth. You then further confuse things in your second post by saying you're talking about "garments."

You should also know that not everyone thinks that a formal/informal distinction is the most useful way of asking this question. Some prefer to think in terms of city vs. country.

Cheers,

Ac
 

GBR

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I'm fairly certain you misunderstood my intent. I just want to rank the garments.

Example is glen plaid more or less formal than windowpane.

Is Rep stripe more or less formal than neat.

J


Cloth does not determine formality, the demands of the occasion do that. What is formal in the country can be way too informal in town.
 

cptjeff

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Not everything in life can be covered with a simple ranking. The formality of something is dependent on a whole lot of factors.

Read more and learn more before you start trying to start making comprehensive guides. Patience.
 

J011yroger

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I almost wonder if it depends on context. For instance, what is more formal/informal in academia might be slightly different than in the corporate world; also, I'd guess there'd be differences in the USA vs UK vs. Italy...

Possibly to some extent, but not in a general grand scope I don't believe. I am not well traveled enough to form an educated opinion based on my own observances, so anything I ventured would just be hearsay.

I would certainly say that different countries would have different standards for what is acceptable wear in certain situations, but I have a feeling that the scale of formality would be similar.

You appear to believe that degree of formality is determined by a single variable: fabric.

Cheers,

Ac

It was not my intent to give off that appearance, which is why I mentioned not only fabrics, but also patterns, cuts, construction, breastedness, and color. I apologize if my posts were not sufficiently concise to convey that to you. I personally endeavor to write in a clear and unambiguous manner, and if you so grossly misunderstood my thought process it would appear that I need to put more effort into my writing. If you could clarify what exactly it was that I wrote to give the impression that I believed that fabric was the single variable determining formality I would much appreciate it.
Not everything in life can be covered with a simple ranking. The formality of something is dependent on a whole lot of factors.

Read more and learn more before you start trying to start making comprehensive guides. Patience.

Are there factors which I neglected to mention? This is just something which has been rolling around in my head for a while, and my searches have turned up spotty information so I was hoping some folk with knowledge of both the history of design and wear as well as the construction of suits and ties would chime in. If you are knowledgeable in these areas I would be appreciative if you would lend your expertise.

J
 

cptjeff

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Are there factors which I neglected to mention? This is just something which has been rolling around in my head for a while, and my searches have turned up spotty information so I was hoping some folk with knowledge of both the history of design and wear as well as the construction of suits and ties would chime in. If you are knowledgeable in these areas I would be appreciative if you would lend your expertise. 


Cut, pockets, lapels, buttons, texture. Even cloths of the same color, weave, and fineness can have different surface textures based on the amount of brushing. You also don't seem to leave room for the idea that a lot of these different factors can be equivalent, or equivalent in some contexts but not in others. For example, a softly tailored jacket made of wool hopsack with patch pockets and contrasting buttons is normally going to be a pretty informal garment. Except when it's a navy blazer, and it's more formal than any other sportcoat, even navy sportcoats with details that, by a strict set of rules, would be more formal.

A strict hierarchy just doesn't work here.
 

GBR

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Not everything in life can be covered with a simple ranking. The formality of something is dependent on a whole lot of factors.

Read more and learn more before you start trying to start making comprehensive guides. Patience.


+1

Do stay and learn more but forget your premise, it is simply utterly wrong.
 
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