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Formal Tuxedo Shirt: Single Cuffs vs. French Cuffs

haganah

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I know the classic white tie outfit uses single cuffs.

For black tie, is the same true? Or is it simply preference?

Is there a benefit to the single cuff even?

Even with the marcella I imagine it still doesn't look as nice holding the links - am I wrong?
 

jrd617

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I thought french cuffs were standard for tuxedos

My Kamakura has them
 

Ianiceman

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I thought french cuffs were standard for tuxedos

My Kamakura has them


Correct. You can be an individual / awkward / :foo: / if you want to, but double / French cuffs are the accepted standard for dinner suits, single linked cuffs for white tie.
 

haganah

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Correct. You can be an individual / awkward / :foo: / if you want to, but double / French cuffs are the accepted standard for dinner suits, single linked cuffs for white tie.


Aside from that is there an actual benefit? Its thinner but not as soft.
 

peak08

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Haganah, did you end up going with single of French cuffs? I am in the same position as you and not sure which to go with for my tuxedo.
 

PhilKenSebben

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I use them interchangeably. I have a detachable wing collar shirt with single cuffs and standard turndown with double cuffs. I like them both, although the double cuffs take up more space and look bulky for a tuxedo in my mind.
 

ImTheGroom

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Double cuffs are standard, and the only correct option, with the sole exception of actually wearing a full dress (white tie) shirt, as @Marc Voorhees does. My understanding is that white tie cuffs are stiffer, similar to the bib, and collar.

I don't find French cuffs bulky, but I have other jackets where they are bulky. A dinner jacket should be but to accommodate French cuffs, since they are the standard. soft single cuffs look awful with a dinner jacket. A friend if mine got his black tie rig at a liquidator, that mostly sells rentals that never made it to a rental company, and they look wimpy, and chintzy.

I would venture to guess that the advent of french cuffs with Tuxedos was with the switch to more comfortable, less formal, soft shirts, specifically because of what I've noticed on my friend's shirt.

And, here is the obligatory reference to black tie guide, where double cuffs are indicated, exclusively:

http://www.blacktieguide.com/Etiquette/Etiquette_Defining_Black_Tie.htm
 
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Grammaton Cleric

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We are all, I believe, ink it discussing linked cuffs. The question is to whether they should be French/double, or single.

Or did you mean that you consider either, or any, type of link cuff correct?


A single cuffed formal shirt is called a link cuff.
 

ImTheGroom

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A single cuffed formal shirt is called a link cuff.


Didn't know that! I would say, then, that it only works when you also import the other white tie aspects of the shirt, as I think they need to be stiff to look good, and so the collar and bosom need to be congruent with that. If you have a soft shirt, with stiff cuffs, I think you have a bit of a Mish mashed look.
 

Grammaton Cleric

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Didn't know that! I would say, then, that it only works when you also import the other white tie aspects of the shirt, as I think they need to be stiff to look good, and so the collar and bosom need to be congruent with that. If you have a soft shirt, with stiff cuffs, I think you have a bit of a Mish mashed look.


Yup, I agree that if you’re getting a pleated front formal shirt, a link cuff may look a bit incongruous. However, for a starched-bib front shirt, or even a plain fly-front, a link cuff will look smarter.

FWIW, link cuffs can be made soft as well. They don’t have to be in Marcella or Pique.
 

ImTheGroom

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^^^^ Yep, I have a light blue shirt, and a grey shirt, that both can be done up as barrel sleeve, or as a link cuff. They are not stiffened, and they look good. I just think formal wear calls for a stiffer, more stately, version.
 

poorsod

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To summarize "The Suit" pg 174 : The options are detachable wing collar, stiff/pique bib, single link cuff vs. attached spread collar, soft pleated front and soft French cuffs.
 

ImTheGroom

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To summarize "The Suit" pg 174 : The options are detachable wing collar, stiff/pique bib, single link cuff vs. attached spread collar, soft pleated front and soft French cuffs.


A black tie piqué bib doesn't need to be stiffened in the same way, however. If it's a turndown collar, I would say it has to be French cuffs.
 

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