Formal Tuxedo Shirt: Single Cuffs vs. French Cuffs

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by haganah, Sep 7, 2013.

  1. haganah

    haganah Senior member

    Messages:
    6,351
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2007
    Location:
    New York, NY
    I know the classic white tie outfit uses single cuffs.

    For black tie, is the same true? Or is it simply preference?

    Is there a benefit to the single cuff even?

    Even with the marcella I imagine it still doesn't look as nice holding the links - am I wrong?
     
  2. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,552
    Likes Received:
    2,281
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    I thought french cuffs were standard for tuxedos

    My Kamakura has them
     
  3. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

    Messages:
    2,651
    Likes Received:
    485
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2010
    Location:
    Keyboard War Room
    

    Correct. You can be an individual / awkward / :foo: / if you want to, but double / French cuffs are the accepted standard for dinner suits, single linked cuffs for white tie.
     
  4. haganah

    haganah Senior member

    Messages:
    6,351
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2007
    Location:
    New York, NY
    

    Aside from that is there an actual benefit? Its thinner but not as soft.
     
  5. peak08

    peak08 Member

    Messages:
    22
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2014
    Haganah, did you end up going with single of French cuffs? I am in the same position as you and not sure which to go with for my tuxedo.
     
  6. Marc Voorhees

    Marc Voorhees Senior member

    Messages:
    561
    Likes Received:
    332
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2012
    I use them interchangeably. I have a detachable wing collar shirt with single cuffs and standard turndown with double cuffs. I like them both, although the double cuffs take up more space and look bulky for a tuxedo in my mind.
     
  7. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

    Messages:
    1,925
    Likes Received:
    542
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2013
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    Double cuffs are standard, and the only correct option, with the sole exception of actually wearing a full dress (white tie) shirt, as @Marc Voorhees does. My understanding is that white tie cuffs are stiffer, similar to the bib, and collar.

    I don't find French cuffs bulky, but I have other jackets where they are bulky. A dinner jacket should be but to accommodate French cuffs, since they are the standard. soft single cuffs look awful with a dinner jacket. A friend if mine got his black tie rig at a liquidator, that mostly sells rentals that never made it to a rental company, and they look wimpy, and chintzy.

    I would venture to guess that the advent of french cuffs with Tuxedos was with the switch to more comfortable, less formal, soft shirts, specifically because of what I've noticed on my friend's shirt.

    And, here is the obligatory reference to black tie guide, where double cuffs are indicated, exclusively:

    http://www.blacktieguide.com/Etiquette/Etiquette_Defining_Black_Tie.htm
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2014
  8. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

    Messages:
    1,813
    Likes Received:
    332
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong / Darien
    IMO, link cuffs are the correct choice for black tie.
     
  9. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

    Messages:
    1,925
    Likes Received:
    542
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2013
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    

    We are all, I believe, ink it discussing linked cuffs. The question is to whether they should be French/double, or single.

    Or did you mean that you consider either, or any, type of link cuff correct?
     
  10. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

    Messages:
    1,813
    Likes Received:
    332
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong / Darien
    

    A single cuffed formal shirt is called a link cuff.
     
  11. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

    Messages:
    1,925
    Likes Received:
    542
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2013
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    

    Didn't know that! I would say, then, that it only works when you also import the other white tie aspects of the shirt, as I think they need to be stiff to look good, and so the collar and bosom need to be congruent with that. If you have a soft shirt, with stiff cuffs, I think you have a bit of a Mish mashed look.
     
  12. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

    Messages:
    1,813
    Likes Received:
    332
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong / Darien
    

    Yup, I agree that if you’re getting a pleated front formal shirt, a link cuff may look a bit incongruous. However, for a starched-bib front shirt, or even a plain fly-front, a link cuff will look smarter.

    FWIW, link cuffs can be made soft as well. They don’t have to be in Marcella or Pique.
     
  13. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

    Messages:
    1,925
    Likes Received:
    542
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2013
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    ^^^^ Yep, I have a light blue shirt, and a grey shirt, that both can be done up as barrel sleeve, or as a link cuff. They are not stiffened, and they look good. I just think formal wear calls for a stiffer, more stately, version.
     
  14. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

    Messages:
    4,059
    Likes Received:
    756
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    To summarize "The Suit" pg 174 : The options are detachable wing collar, stiff/pique bib, single link cuff vs. attached spread collar, soft pleated front and soft French cuffs.
     
  15. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

    Messages:
    1,925
    Likes Received:
    542
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2013
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    

    A black tie piqué bib doesn't need to be stiffened in the same way, however. If it's a turndown collar, I would say it has to be French cuffs.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by