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For the love of d'Avenza

Phileas Fogg

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Yes, the garments currently produced are different. There is a substantial stock available still, which was made prior to the acquisition. We were referring to those.
yes I know. I was just throwing that out there.
 

LuxGentleman

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Hello all, long time lurker on SF, first time poster.

I have been intrigued by the d'Avenza dead stock's excellent value proposition and have been looking at a few pieces. Can anyone shed some light on the differences between the plain d'Avenza tags and the d'Avenza tag with the cursive Roma? I saw some earlier posts suggesting it is merely an indicator of age. Would this suggest the one with the cursive Roma predates the simpler tag? I assume the tags say nothing of the quality, and both would be fantastic.

Thanks in advance!
Good morning
all the comments made so far are all true but I want to dispel a taboo, maybe there was a little confusion about it.
I spoke to my supplier and learned that all current products on the market are part of the old company.
today I can assure you that in almost all the online stores that have d'Avenza for sale they are part of the old company.
when the old company closed, only the products sewn by them were put up for sale and not by the new company that took the name only.
with this I want to remind you that all d'Avenza products for sale are part of the old company.
many initially believed that those of the new company were among these remaining products.
obviously the advice is to take a look at the measurements in the description because the wearability is various.
Alessandro at your disposal.
 

tobiasfunke19

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gun-club check, 100% cashmere jacket in size 40R

IMG_2118.jpg
 
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thegreatgatsby

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Please, please, please, read this thread before you post (from the beginning). Any question you might have about d'Avenza has (quite literally) already been answered many times over.

To recap:

1. No --- Brunello Cucinelli did not "take over the operations" of d'Avenza. He lured a bunch of their old school tailors away to work on his formal wear line.

2. Yes --- all deadstock d'Avenza is of amazing quality. Only ONE season of d'Avenza was made by BrandAmour (the last company to own d'Avenza). That stuff is garbage. You can tell it's BrandAmour made because it literally falls apart - and pretty much no one has any of it for sale. You are more likely to get hit by a speeding bus than you are likely to find a BrandAmour-made-piece of d'Avenza --- so don't sweat it. If you are buying a d'Avenza piece you are getting the best of the best at a bargain basement price: every stitch is done by hand (except the attachment of the lining - but who cares about that?). The only re-seller of d'Avenza who has dreaded BrandAmour (one-and-done-season) d'Avenza pieces for sale is Virtual Clothes Horse. He's a great seller, if you don't know him. But I think he doesn't know how bad the quality is. It's actually hard to tell until you wear it for awhile. As I said - it falls apart. Blueprint 5 - the Rhode Island menswear shop - had countless returns that season. So - as I said - let's put this to rest: 99.9% of d'Avenza is "the good stuff" (said with a mock Italian accent).

3. Yes --- some d'Avenza pieces look old and dated, because they are old and dated. If you don't mind pleated pants or wider lapels on your suits, then this won't matter to you. At this point: 80% of the deadstock d'Avenza is - unfortunately - 3 button jackets and suits with pleated pants. Most of the flat front suits and 2 button front suits were either sold already (on the secondary market), or are way, way, overpriced on Ebay (anything above $500 to me is way, way overpriced for d'Avenza, because that's the most I ever paid).

4. I started this thread, and I hope to end it here. There's really nothing left to ask, to say, or to repeat about this amazing tailoring company. There will be people who revive this thread for months and years to come just to sell their goods, and I'm fine with that, but if you want to understand d'Avenza, just read this thread and you'll know all there is to know. If the history of d'Avenza were a college course - it would meet once a week for one week*. There - you've graduated.

*Disclaimer: D'Avenza has a rich history that speaks to the business genius of Simon Ackerman - who melded British and Italian tailoring. It's a mystery why d'Avenza so badly failed to market its goods since the 1950s - it could have been Brioni or Kiton - and should have been on par with those "brands" - but it never achieved even a 10th of their market-share. Jonathan Clay could write a novella about the company. Bill White could also tell you a great deal about the final years of d'Avenza (and his own efforts to introduce it to America which failed miserably). There's a lot about the company that we'll never know because there don't seem to be good records or archives (I've looked!), and most of the head cutters are dead. The company has been in bankruptcy multiple times, and is now - essentially - dissolved (so there's no "keeper of the archives" --- the various owners over the decades have lost their proverbial shirts, so they weren't particularly concerned with keeping the heritage alive the way Zegna has, for instance). Whether Clay will do anything with the name remains to be seen (as he has allegedly bought the trademarks associated with d'Avenza).

My point? That for our purposes here --- as guys who want to buy the best but do not wish to pay the prices associated with the best --- go get yourself some d'Avenza deadstock. As for your questions --- unless we get Jonathan Clay or Bill White on here to discuss these finer points --- I think we've gone about as far as we possibly can go with this conversation.

Hope everyone is staying safe and sane.

Best
 
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LuxGentleman

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I 100% confirm everything that "thegreatgatsby" wrote, I think there will never be anything more to add, maybe just one small detail is that the products in my shop are 80% current, (two buttons or 3 rolls / 2 Buttons).
Alessandro
 

jalebi

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You can get a Forte jacket in a size 40 (if you're a true 38 - I'd get the 40)

Eric's got one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NWT-3295-DAVENZA-Light-Gray-Heavy-Wool-Forte-Jacket-Sport-Coat-40-R-Slim-Fit/282900220649?hash=item41de2acae9:g:RPYAAOSwI-BWFdzM

Mark's got one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-DAVENZA-Forte-Navy-Blue-Cotton-2-Button-Sport-Coat-Blazer-Size-50-40R-2995/322065475011?hash=item4afc9925c3:g:niUAAOSwtUtXBVmx

Both are really good deals. Ask for the friends and family discount...

This is the original "soft" jacket - long before the Boglioli K jacket came along (if I'm not mistaken), and they go with everything from grey slacks to jeans.
Anyone remember the prices for the above jackets? Looking to guage what's a decent price for either a wool, linen or cotton Forte.

Thanks!
 

MarkWinter

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Anyone remember the prices for the above jackets? Looking to guage what's a decent price for either a wool, linen or cotton Forte.

Thanks!

We have a few Forte jackets, not only for price reference :)

Find them here.

Somebody mentioned these are tho original soft jackets. I would just add that D'avenza made many different soft models, and they are all great.
 

LuxGentleman

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Anyone remember the prices for the above jackets? Looking to guage what's a decent price for either a wool, linen or cotton Forte.

Thanks!
Dear customer i have several "forte jacket" available, there is no specified in the title of the listing, these are the links:






I rest at your disposal
Alessandro
 

monkey66

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HI, just read this thread end to end ...phew.

Could I ask (from all be it limited photos) if it is possible to identify the age of this suit? Many thanks in advance.
Annotation 2020-07-22 134052.png
Annotation 2020-07-22 134120.png
 

thegreatgatsby

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HI, just read this thread end to end ...phew.

Could I ask (from all be it limited photos) if it is possible to identify the age of this suit? Many thanks in advance.View attachment 1428520View attachment 1428521
If you take a picture of the full suit, and the internal tag, then I can tell you the specific year (in all likelihood).

Are the pants pleated? Is it a 2 or 3 button front? How much shoulder padding?

Based on the paper tag alone, though, I'd say the suit was made in the late 90s.

Sorry the thread was a lot to digest. That wasn't my intention with it.

I'm just a huge d'Avenza fan who wanted to show love.
 

monkey66

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Many thanks, the thread is brilliant. I am now looking for my D'avenza piece. There is a suit auction ending today but the seller has not provided enough pictures for me to bid confidently.
 

thegreatgatsby

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Many thanks, the thread is brilliant. I am now looking for my D'avenza piece. There is a suit auction ending today but the seller has not provided enough pictures for me to bid confidently.

I'm delighted! I never could have afforded "the best" of menswear if it hadn't been for the numerous bankruptcies of d'Avenza.

I would just ask the seller how many buttons (on the front), and if the pants are pleated. But if pleated pants and 3 button fronts don't bother you, it really doesn't matter.

The suit you have your eye on looks great (a classic charcoal pinstripe will never go out of style).

Let me know how it works out!
 

haloitsme

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I have a quick question about D’Avenza’s sizing. As Stocks flows arround from the last 20 years, have they slim-fit cuts?
I am usually wearing Kiton 52 Drop L8, Dolce Gabbana Sicily 52 (eu/ US 42) (Slim fit) -(only evening styles with patterns or weird looks)

As for me , Iam very tall 1.95m , 90 kg, broad shoulder , small waist (33/34 inch or so) ... does D’Avenza somehow offered does kind of V shape slim fit suits?

Thanks
 

thegreatgatsby

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I have a quick question about D’Avenza’s sizing. As Stocks flows arround from the last 20 years, have they slim-fit cuts?
I am usually wearing Kiton 52 Drop L8, Dolce Gabbana Sicily 52 (eu/ US 42) (Slim fit) -(only evening styles with patterns or weird looks)

As for me , Iam very tall 1.95m , 90 kg, broad shoulder , small waist (33/34 inch or so) ... does D’Avenza somehow offered does kind of V shape slim fit suits?

Thanks
D'Avenza fits, very well, a broad shouldered or big chest person (particularly muscular people). As for "slim fit" - no - most of it is more classic fit (which would be "relaxed fit" by today's standards). Sometimes I have to take the trousers in all along the legs (both sides), as the pants are most definitely not "slim." I typically spend about $300 - $400 on a d'Avenza suit, and then about $250 to $300 to have it perfectly tailored. $550 for a suit that looks bespoke is a great deal. It's an even better deal when you're getting a garment that has taken 30+ hours to make - and every stitch is done by hand.

You'll have the "V" shape once your tailor is through with it.

The one big caveat - which I just learned recently - is with pleated pants. About 70% of d'Avenza suits have single pleats. Even the best tailor in the world can only slim your legs so much when pleats are in the way. A pleat really does hamper how "slim" you can go (a pleat does help, marginally, with letting out pants, but not the other way around).

You'll also like d'Avenza (given your height), as about 50% of their suit jackets and sport coats are on the long side (31"), and there are a handful of "longs" out there still for sale.

Hope that helps.
 

haloitsme

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D'Avenza fits, very well, a broad shouldered or big chest person (particularly muscular people). As for "slim fit" - no - most of it is more classic fit (which would be "relaxed fit" by today's standards). Sometimes I have to take the trousers in all along the legs (both sides), as the pants are most definitely not "slim." I typically spend about $300 - $400 on a d'Avenza suit, and then about $250 to $300 to have it perfectly tailored. $550 for a suit that looks bespoke is a great deal. It's an even better deal when you're getting a garment that has taken 30+ hours to make - and every stitch is done by hand.

You'll have the "V" shape once your tailor is through with it.

The one big caveat - which I just learned recently - is with pleated pants. About 70% of d'Avenza suits have single pleats. Even the best tailor in the world can only slim your legs so much when pleats are in the way. A pleat really does hamper how "slim" you can go (a pleat does help, marginally, with letting out pants, but not the other way around).

You'll also like d'Avenza (given your height), as about 50% of their suit jackets and sport coats are on the long side (31"), and there are a handful of "longs" out there still for sale.

Hope that helps.
Thank you very much for the fast response.
I see, so probably only look for jackets / sakkos for me. In the worst case i can wear a nice „tailored“ jacket and see how slim the pants may go.

Iam guessing d‘avenza Also writes on it, how long & „shaped“ it is with L / R etc. and the Drop ? Because my arms are also long :).
As I guess the older ones does not come with drops indicated (newer does) have they all been the same sleeve length?

Best
 

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