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for the full pegged afficianados

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by DWFII, Mar 3, 2012.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    French calf, full pegged, inch and five-eighths cuban/military heel. (Bottom finish tends to "pile-up" around pegs.)

    Click to enlarge

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  2. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Holy shit... this is the 'boots' porn

    Any deeds? What's the damage?
     


  3. Xenon

    Xenon Senior member

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    Wow, simply beautiful! What an elegant shape.

    Love the cuban heel and 1 5/8 is the perfect height for me.
     


  4. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Those look like they would hurt someone.
     


  5. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Senior member

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    Those look very comfortable. I'm not sure why more shoes aren't built narrow in the heel and waist, with a roomy toe box.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2012


  6. well-kept

    well-kept Senior member

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    Beautiful work, in both design and execution. Thanks for sharing.
     


  7. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Well, while this thread was intended to be mostly about the pegging, it might be remarked that the boots are "full wellingtons" --one piece front, toe to top; one piece back--an extremely difficult technique, especially when done with bona fide shoe leather.

    They are bespoke...the fifth(?) pair for this individual.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2012


  8. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

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    Those are amazing. I don't think I could bring myself to walk on those soles.
     


  9. Xenon

    Xenon Senior member

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    It appears that the sole is around 6 mm thick. Is that made up of outer sole and a welt or two full sole layers. If a welt present, is it stitched to a holdfast? Do the pegs run from the outsole to reappear on the surface of inner sole (like a rivet)? Would you happen to have a diagram of pegged construction?
     


  10. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    No welt. Actually it has a "clump" sole, for lack of a better term--a half mid-sole (historically, "clump" soles were a half sole but they were the last layer mounted) .

    The upper is stitched to the insole, the clump is pegged close to the edge of the insole. The pegs just barely enter the last..

    The outsole is pegged to the clump sole but this double row (10 pegs per inch) is inset a bit from the row of pegs on the clump. The pegs, once again, barely (if) penetrate the last.

    The outsole is approximately 10 iron and the clumps sole is about 6 iron. On a standard welted shoe, the outsole might be 9 or 10 iron, and 4 iron for the welt.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2012


  11. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Boxercise Toughguy

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    +1000.
     


  12. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I want to thank everyone for the kind words.

    for those who said they looked like they might be comfortable...you have no idea. The French calf is some of the nicest leather I have ever worked with. Firm enough to hold its shape and wear well, but soft enough that you will notice how nicely they break in and how supple they are.

    And the leather is "struck through!"

    Pegs will make the shoe a little stiffer in wear and they are a little more problematic as far as repairing or replacing the outsole. But the pegs are harder (being vintage hard rock maple) than the leather and they prevent the leather from wearing as quickly as it might otherwise do.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2012


  13. Mute

    Mute Senior member

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    Those soles....wow.
     


  14. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    Wow is right. I really hope I can make it up there to visit you this summer, DW.
     


  15. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    there are...
     


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