Do you prefer edge-stitched or quarter-stitched? Or do you mix it up depending on the fabric? I must admit that I like the slight puckering effect that edge-stitching seems to create. Then again, I kinda like quarter-stitching as well. How is puckering effect created by edge-stitching affected by the type of interlining used and the method of fusing?
What about the interlining used for the collars and cuffs? My shirts will usually be worn sans-tie under a sports jacket. I have RTW dress shirts, which when worn under a jacket, the collar kinda lays down flat, instead of creating a nice roll when the top button is undone. I want the roll! Is this better achieved with a certain thickness of interlining or collar style? I've communicated to my shirt-maker what I wanted and I'll see what he comes up with for the trial shirt, but I'm curious as to what other's experiences have been.
I've also read about completely un-fused collars and cuffs and am a bit confused. Normally the interlining is fused to the visible side of the fabric and over time the back of the cuff or collar becomes quite un-sightly. With no fusing at all, what happens over time? Does anyone have any pictures? I also assume that you would only bother doing this with a more casual cloth and a softer lining...
What about the interlining used for the collars and cuffs? My shirts will usually be worn sans-tie under a sports jacket. I have RTW dress shirts, which when worn under a jacket, the collar kinda lays down flat, instead of creating a nice roll when the top button is undone. I want the roll! Is this better achieved with a certain thickness of interlining or collar style? I've communicated to my shirt-maker what I wanted and I'll see what he comes up with for the trial shirt, but I'm curious as to what other's experiences have been.
I've also read about completely un-fused collars and cuffs and am a bit confused. Normally the interlining is fused to the visible side of the fabric and over time the back of the cuff or collar becomes quite un-sightly. With no fusing at all, what happens over time? Does anyone have any pictures? I also assume that you would only bother doing this with a more casual cloth and a softer lining...