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for bespoke shirt lovers (or Kabbaz):collars, cuffs, and the chosen interlining

GQgeek

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Do you prefer edge-stitched or quarter-stitched? Or do you mix it up depending on the fabric? I must admit that I like the slight puckering effect that edge-stitching seems to create. Then again, I kinda like quarter-stitching as well. How is puckering effect created by edge-stitching affected by the type of interlining used and the method of fusing?

What about the interlining used for the collars and cuffs? My shirts will usually be worn sans-tie under a sports jacket. I have RTW dress shirts, which when worn under a jacket, the collar kinda lays down flat, instead of creating a nice roll when the top button is undone. I want the roll! Is this better achieved with a certain thickness of interlining or collar style? I've communicated to my shirt-maker what I wanted and I'll see what he comes up with for the trial shirt, but I'm curious as to what other's experiences have been.

I've also read about completely un-fused collars and cuffs and am a bit confused. Normally the interlining is fused to the visible side of the fabric and over time the back of the cuff or collar becomes quite un-sightly. With no fusing at all, what happens over time? Does anyone have any pictures? I also assume that you would only bother doing this with a more casual cloth and a softer lining...
 

tiger02

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Bump for GQG's sake, and to add a question. In A Kabbaz' great pic from Sartorial Excellence (below), how stiff are the single cuffs? My new Jantzens aren't going to be able to hack that shape.

 

HappymaN

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Hey Alex. I notice that your personal dress collar has no "roll", but rather, I imagine that you press your collar folds with an iron to get that "straight edge" look. Is this your personal preference, or is this traditional? Also, I notice that you opt for no tie space - is this traditional? BTW, beautiful collar you have there!
 

Cantabrigian

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From reading some of Alex's articles on shirtmaking, I believe that he prefers edge stitching (1/16 away from the edge of the collar) so that the collar will not bend where it touches the chest.

I personally prefer quarter stitching for anything but a herringbone or noticeable twill where the fabric itself will provide quite a bit of surface interest.

For interlining, I would recommend something pretty stiff/thick if you won't be wearing a tie and if you want the collar to look crisp.

I am trying having the first button placed half an inch below the collar band in an effort to keep a spread collar shirts from falling down when worn without a tie.
 

GQgeek

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Originally Posted by Cantabrigian
From reading some of Alex's articles on shirtmaking, I believe that he prefers edge stitching (1/16 away from the edge of the collar) so that the collar will not bend where it touches the chest.

I personally prefer quarter stitching for anything but a herringbone or noticeable twill where the fabric itself will provide quite a bit of surface interest.

For interlining, I would recommend something pretty stiff/thick if you won't be wearing a tie and if you want the collar to look crisp.

I am trying having the first button placed half an inch below the collar band in an effort to keep a spread collar shirts from falling down when worn without a tie.


The point about the collars not bending at the tip makes sense since the stays extend all the way to the tip. I also think that you make a good point about not doing quarter-stitching on any fabric with too much going on already. As for the interlining, I think I'm just going to experiment a bit until I find the right one.
 

Cantabrigian

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I personally like the little bit of bending that comes from the quarter-stitching but that's with a non-fused collar (though with an interlining with some guts) that rolls somewhat dramatically.

If you prefer a smoother, flatter collar such as the one AK is wearing, I think that your should really go with edge-stitching.

I'm not sure what you mean by 'puckering' unfused collars will have a slightly puffy appearance to them (as opposed to fused collars) but that's got nothing to do with the stitching so far as I can tell.
 

GQgeek

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Originally Posted by Cantabrigian
I personally like the little bit of bending that comes from the quarter-stitching but that's with a non-fused collar (though with an interlining with some guts) that rolls somewhat dramatically.

If you prefer a smoother, flatter collar such as the one AK is wearing, I think that your should really go with edge-stitching.

I'm not sure what you mean by 'puckering' unfused collars will have a slightly puffy appearance to them (as opposed to fused collars) but that's got nothing to do with the stitching so far as I can tell.


I hope Alex doesn't mind. This is an image that was posted in his "Why bespoke shirts" thread.



Look at the edges of the yellow shirt on the right and you'll see what I mean. Is that collar un-fused? If so, I think the combination of it being un-fused with edge-stitching is particularly attractive.
 

Cantabrigian

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Since it is a buttondown, I would guess that collar is unfused.
 

GQgeek

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Are stiffer collars ever un-fused? Or is it purely a more casual thing for use with a soft interlining? I really haven't seen many un-fused dress shirts in my life-time.
 

Cantabrigian

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Yes, you can make dress shirt collars that are somewhat stiff but not fused.

I believe that just about all fused collars will be stiffer than even an unfused collar with a substantial lining.

Personally, I prefer unfused collars with a heavy interlining.
 

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