for bespoke shirt lovers (or Kabbaz):collars, cuffs, and the chosen interlining

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by GQgeek, Apr 15, 2006.

  1. GQgeek

    GQgeek Senior member

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    Do you prefer edge-stitched or quarter-stitched? Or do you mix it up depending on the fabric? I must admit that I like the slight puckering effect that edge-stitching seems to create. Then again, I kinda like quarter-stitching as well. How is puckering effect created by edge-stitching affected by the type of interlining used and the method of fusing?

    What about the interlining used for the collars and cuffs? My shirts will usually be worn sans-tie under a sports jacket. I have RTW dress shirts, which when worn under a jacket, the collar kinda lays down flat, instead of creating a nice roll when the top button is undone. I want the roll! Is this better achieved with a certain thickness of interlining or collar style? I've communicated to my shirt-maker what I wanted and I'll see what he comes up with for the trial shirt, but I'm curious as to what other's experiences have been.

    I've also read about completely un-fused collars and cuffs and am a bit confused. Normally the interlining is fused to the visible side of the fabric and over time the back of the cuff or collar becomes quite un-sightly. With no fusing at all, what happens over time? Does anyone have any pictures? I also assume that you would only bother doing this with a more casual cloth and a softer lining...
     


  2. tiger02

    tiger02 Militarist

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    Bump for GQG's sake, and to add a question. In A Kabbaz' great pic from Sartorial Excellence (below), how stiff are the single cuffs? My new Jantzens aren't going to be able to hack that shape.

    [​IMG]
     


  3. HappymaN

    HappymaN Senior member

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    Hey Alex. I notice that your personal dress collar has no "roll", but rather, I imagine that you press your collar folds with an iron to get that "straight edge" look. Is this your personal preference, or is this traditional? Also, I notice that you opt for no tie space - is this traditional? BTW, beautiful collar you have there!
     


  4. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    From reading some of Alex's articles on shirtmaking, I believe that he prefers edge stitching (1/16 away from the edge of the collar) so that the collar will not bend where it touches the chest.

    I personally prefer quarter stitching for anything but a herringbone or noticeable twill where the fabric itself will provide quite a bit of surface interest.

    For interlining, I would recommend something pretty stiff/thick if you won't be wearing a tie and if you want the collar to look crisp.

    I am trying having the first button placed half an inch below the collar band in an effort to keep a spread collar shirts from falling down when worn without a tie.
     


  5. GQgeek

    GQgeek Senior member

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    From reading some of Alex's articles on shirtmaking, I believe that he prefers edge stitching (1/16 away from the edge of the collar) so that the collar will not bend where it touches the chest.

    I personally prefer quarter stitching for anything but a herringbone or noticeable twill where the fabric itself will provide quite a bit of surface interest.

    For interlining, I would recommend something pretty stiff/thick if you won't be wearing a tie and if you want the collar to look crisp.

    I am trying having the first button placed half an inch below the collar band in an effort to keep a spread collar shirts from falling down when worn without a tie.


    The point about the collars not bending at the tip makes sense since the stays extend all the way to the tip. I also think that you make a good point about not doing quarter-stitching on any fabric with too much going on already. As for the interlining, I think I'm just going to experiment a bit until I find the right one.
     


  6. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I personally like the little bit of bending that comes from the quarter-stitching but that's with a non-fused collar (though with an interlining with some guts) that rolls somewhat dramatically.

    If you prefer a smoother, flatter collar such as the one AK is wearing, I think that your should really go with edge-stitching.

    I'm not sure what you mean by 'puckering' unfused collars will have a slightly puffy appearance to them (as opposed to fused collars) but that's got nothing to do with the stitching so far as I can tell.
     


  7. GQgeek

    GQgeek Senior member

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    I personally like the little bit of bending that comes from the quarter-stitching but that's with a non-fused collar (though with an interlining with some guts) that rolls somewhat dramatically.

    If you prefer a smoother, flatter collar such as the one AK is wearing, I think that your should really go with edge-stitching.

    I'm not sure what you mean by 'puckering' unfused collars will have a slightly puffy appearance to them (as opposed to fused collars) but that's got nothing to do with the stitching so far as I can tell.


    I hope Alex doesn't mind. This is an image that was posted in his "Why bespoke shirts" thread.

    [​IMG]

    Look at the edges of the yellow shirt on the right and you'll see what I mean. Is that collar un-fused? If so, I think the combination of it being un-fused with edge-stitching is particularly attractive.
     


  8. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Since it is a buttondown, I would guess that collar is unfused.
     


  9. GQgeek

    GQgeek Senior member

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    Are stiffer collars ever un-fused? Or is it purely a more casual thing for use with a soft interlining? I really haven't seen many un-fused dress shirts in my life-time.
     


  10. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Yes, you can make dress shirt collars that are somewhat stiff but not fused.

    I believe that just about all fused collars will be stiffer than even an unfused collar with a substantial lining.

    Personally, I prefer unfused collars with a heavy interlining.
     


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