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Folded Up Shirt P0rn

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, May 23, 2007.

  1. coldinboston

    coldinboston Senior member

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    Good point. I also almost exclusively wear my dress shirts with a suit or sports jacket so i do like it to fit close
     
  2. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    As shirtmaker, absolutery yes.

    Those wide shirts where three arms do fit on a single sleeve on it that are most of the rtw and badspoke are done because ;

    more selleable as fit more different people in,

    way easy to do and poor skills of the maker.

    Those fitted patterns got tons of hours behind of study and are the evolution of shirtmaking, only a few top patternamakers are able to do such perfection to fit the human body and to not look as the usual bags of rice that others less skilled do.

    Other thing is personal taste of the client, as you per example that prefer less fitted shirts to drive all day etc. But going bespoke would work.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2016
  3. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    My post was about the trend of shirt makers cutting the arms of shirts much more snug and skinny in the last couple of years. I don't mean nicely tailored, I mean tight!.

    Do you want a shirt that pulls when you flex your arms? I don't but perhaps I am in the minority. I don't feel comfortable in the GQ cover tight fit suit or shirt look. To me that isn't elegant or the sign of a good fit. I buy custom shirts to have a nice tailored look but not tight or pulling.
     
    4 people like this.
  4. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    The sleeves cut by Mary Fritolini are incredible and not too lean. She cuts the sleeve with a curve so the cuff stays in place as you bend the elbow. Charvet doesn't even cut it like that.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2016
  5. coldinboston

    coldinboston Senior member

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    Which brands are you talking about? They all have different fits.
     
  6. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    I am also curious, Neapolitan slim cut is not extreme as the Milan fashion brands for anorexic like people or too young gents.

    Also the Neapolitan brands do have different bigger cut for USA export, on the case of Kiton, is a bit(or too much) big for my taste, but they told me that would lose sales if they sent the euro cut that also is not very slim.

    It seems their target are +40 people whose body is not like a teenager.
     
  7. masaccio

    masaccio Senior member

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    When selling shirts for $500 USD and up, that seems to be a smart business decision.

    And no, that's not meant as a criticism on the price of the shirts. It just seems to make good business sense to know your customers and cater to them and their needs.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. brax

    brax Senior member

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    These shirts just came in from Camiceria Lombardi: [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] Alumo Soyella 2X2 170s broadcloth [​IMG] Alumo Salvatore Triplo 3X3 160s broadcloth [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    7 people like this.
  9. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    How is this shirtmaker?

    Is considered very good by my Neapolitan colleagues but I do not know him.



    Did you chose the collar stititching on the edge yourself or came by default?
     
  10. brax

    brax Senior member

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    Thank you, Sarto. I worked exclusively with the son, Simone. He was very knowledgable and we went over many options including the edge stitching. That was my choice. On my sports shirts, I do not opt for that option. I will report back on the quality of the craftsmanship after I've had a chance to wear the shirts a few times.
     
  11. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    Interesting. Got pics of the fit, you can pm them if you desire. Did you visit him I assume?

    The buttonholes look very good from your pics.
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2016
  12. brax

    brax Senior member

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    Yes. I met with Simone in Napoli where we discussed all of the options. I then returned three weeks later (it could have been sooner but I was in Africa then) for a provo evaluation and adjustment and then final shirting selection. Give me a little time to wear and launder one of the shirts and I'll then post a few pictures to evaluate fit and any other details that you may want. I think that a shirt must be worn and laundered a couple of times before getting a true picture.
     
  13. brax

    brax Senior member

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    It took about seven weeks from the fitting to mailing the shirts.
     
  14. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Lombardi is considered probably the only true Camiciaio from everyone else in the tailoring sector in Naples. Whilst others have made their name in the RTW sector with hand details, Luciano Lombardi is first and foremost a bespoke shirtmaker and then an outsourcing shirt operations. He has formed many other shirt makers that went on to have a notable career themselves and they still call him "Maestro". Only thing that keep me from using him exclusively is the lead times.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    Maybe he got too much orders at the time? Happens in Naples most of the time.

    I was asking to know because I have heard nice things, so I was curious. Nice to know this time I was told the true by those.
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2016
  16. brax

    brax Senior member

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    These shirts just came in from Luca Avitabile in Naples: [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] All are Albini DJAnderson Zephir 170 Lino
     
    8 people like this.
  17. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Senior member

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    Good election of cloths for the upcoming spring/summer.

    I am curious about how these shirts from Luca compare to those from Lombardi.

    By the way, which are the most traditional buttons used by neapolitan shirt makers? I've seen more often the small thick buttons of the shirts you posted brax, but Kiton uses the flat ones, which I honestly prefer given that they button up better in my opinion. It is possible to request these kind of buttons at Lomabrdi/Avitabile?

    Best,
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    These are bespoke shirts and as such you can choose types of buttons amongst other things.

    On a Neapolitan hidden placket shirts from another shirtmaker I once requested and got Charvet type of buttons.

    On my shirts from Lombardi I have selected a button which is slightly wider and thinner than the usual thick Neapolitan ones. The key is that the buttonholes are proportionate to the buttons selected.

    Finally worth nothing that the reason most Neapolitan shirtmaker default to thick MOP buttons is that traditionally these were rarer, more resistant and therefore more expensive. There used to be many buttons shop in Naples until the late 1990's, a very famous one on via Chiaia were my grandma and mum used to buy buttons to supply to home based shirtmakers.
     
  19. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    You can´t imagine the models of buttons available for shirtmaking, even weird as squared, octogonal, smoked in different shades, all coming from the North of Italy most of the time and sure a shirtmaker has in stock, but usually is used the 16 paired with 14 in 4 mm most of the time, the one you can see in almost all the Neapolitan brands. The “thick” one.

    There is a 5 mm one whose cost is triple than it, I got a few myself, but never seen any on a production shirt, a reseller was selling those online for 3,99 each!!!

    For jackets is were you can´t imagine how many different buttons do exist! I always find new ones never seen before.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Senior member

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    Kiton shirt just arrived for a wedding this Saturday in a beautiful castle near Lyon, France. White cotton. Could you please tell me how this weave is called? Panama? Woven cotton?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2016
    2 people like this.

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