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Folded Up Shirt P0rn

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, May 23, 2007.

  1. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Through NMWA trunk shows they offer a MTO based upon changes to their basic pattern or a Custom option with more handwork. I would recommend contacting NMWA for specific details. In my case we used the body of a larger size and the collar size from a smaller shirt and shorter sleeves. I wear a 16/35
     
  2. PSNY

    PSNY Senior member

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    What was the price? Those shirts look very beautiful!
     
  3. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You should email NMWA for current prices. They gave a trunk show discount last Fall of 15%. There are also different prices for MTO and Custom.
     
  4. PSNY

    PSNY Senior member

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    Thanks, never the less, very beautiful shirt!
     
  5. dwlbu

    dwlbu Senior member

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    South Carolina
    I just organized my shirt section in my closet and had a proud-dad type moment that I felt compelled to share.

    I started lurking on SF about 9 months ago as I tried to overhaul my wardrobe. As you can tell from my post count, I have done more lurking and searching than posting (the proper way, instead of posting annoying newbie threads :slayer:). If I could rewind the clock 1 year, my dress shirt collection would have been all Jos A Bank, polo, and brooks brothers 346, etc.

    Thanks to all the solid contributors, information, and even some of the sellers on SF (but mainly eBay) - I've been able to completely cycle out my old I'll-fitting junk with the likes of Hamilton, Zegna, Luciano Barbera, Loro Piana, Canali, etc. that all fit properly.

    Not quite folded up shirts, but here's what I've got in my closet now without a single one of the shirts I owned last year.

    [​IMG]

    I didn't even know what mother of pearl buttons were a year ago lol
     
    2 people like this.
  6. coldinboston

    coldinboston Senior member

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    Boston, MA, USA
    Just picked up a new dress shirt from my favorite brand at Barneys. Kind of boring light blue color but as always great shirt and fabric and fits like a glove

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.
  7. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    Those are made on a friend´s house who teached me tons of tricks.

    Great shirt, what a shirt has to be. Congrats.
     
  8. coldinboston

    coldinboston Senior member

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    Thanks means something when people in the business think its a great made shirt.

    Please tell your friend that I love the work they put in these shirts and generally anything that company makes (not sure if he is involved in their casual shirts or suits) Was too lazy to pull out the suits out of their bags, its a shirt thread afterall.
    If he is ever in Boston he has free dinner on me (i am not kidding)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    Nice, he would like it.

    Here is a pic for you, sadly can´t post more for discretion reasons, in fact should not post this one of my time there... I miss those times. The suits are done on other place I never gave any hand btw but did with the tiemakers.[​IMG]


    Enjoy! I do.[​IMG][​IMG] Hope to come back someday.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  10. WSW

    WSW Senior member

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    Washington, D.C.
    Excited to finally receive my Oct 2015 commission from Dege & Skinner!

    [​IMG]

    I included two casual sportshirts in this order and will be keen to see how Robert Whittaker cut them in comparison to the traditional business shirts.
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. coldinboston

    coldinboston Senior member

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    What are you making specifically in that picture? What are those strips for? I am not very knowledgeable in shirt making i just know that they fit and look great and never had any quality issues with them. I would also be insterested to know from someone in the business if there is any significant diff in quality vs ISAIA, finamore, and Kiton. I mainly stick with ISAIA bc i like their colors and as I said before the fit and quality is great as such i have never had a reason to look anywhere else. I am also not a huge fan of Kiton's baggy fit ( at least in USA market) and the brown buttons.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2016
  12. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    Hi again,

    Those white things are the interlining used inside the collars and cuffs, are getting put on the middle of the collar fabric and matching the pattern by hand and eye, before that is fused on a special machine that cost a lot of thousands of euros. If you turn back the collar, maybe you can see it if they did not put any reinforce, is the pocket were the plastic thing is holded.

    Kiton does the best rtw in the world by far, I was teached by some of them, but depending on the shop, the fit might be big as you say.

    Finamore rtw uses better fabrics than Isaia and would be between both.

    The only difference is Kiton, has do not remember from memory, but perhaps 16 parts are sewn by hand, also uses the best fabrics of the industry that others non Neapolitan ever dream of (35 to 50 euros meter) (for real), Finamore does 4 to 8 parts by hand depending the shirt or the shop, 12 to 25 euros meter most of the time, and Isaia, 4 parts by hand and fabrics around 12-18 euros meter, the most muscular and most beatiful fit is Isaia.

    Yet this beat the rest of the makers and are at light years of the medicrity of London´s Jermyn Street ( O parts by hand, sewn by machine pretty fast and irregular, and awful 3 euros/meter fabrics, most are made in Asia and rebranded as European)
     
  13. coldinboston

    coldinboston Senior member

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    Thanks for the info.

    Yea for RTW ISAIA has the best tapered/muscular fit (its not just a "slim"/small shirt) and works best for me. Not necessarily that i am very muscular but more bc my shoulders are relatively broader than my torso. It is probably better, but I dont see really how a MTM shirt would improve on the fit.

    I have looked at Kiton before and their fabrics are spectacular, i just have to alter them and take them in a bit. Hopefully stores in rhe USA will carry some of their more tapered cut shirts. Or just get MTM.

    I will have to look at Finamore a little more as I can find their more more tapered cut shirts here locally.

    You dont have to convince me about Neopolitan tailoring. I have moved to purely neopolitan tailoring a few years ago and ar this point almost my whole wardorbe is neopolitan except for few casual Cuccinelli shirts (not sure where they are located).
     
  14. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    lovely.

    CiB - great closet. Nice suit covers. Please share more details about those. Thank you!
     
  15. coldinboston

    coldinboston Senior member

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    The suit covers are 8.5oz cotton twill covers from the hanger project who i think is an affiliate here. They are great for suits, coats etc and very well constructed. I initially thought it was probably overkill but then i liked them so much i ended getting one for each suit and sports jacket so i know have quite a few in addition to those pictures. I also use their suit, shirt, and trouser hangers. All very good quality stuff and the customer service is very responsive.

    Here is the link
    https://www.hangerproject.com/garment-bag.html

    I have many purchases from them with only a couple of minor hiccups (i.e. wrong color hanger sent or something like that), which were promptly corrected by them so i would recommend them if you are looking at suit covers.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2016
  16. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    thank you...
     
  17. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm amazed how slim many of the Italian shirtmakers are cutting the arms of their shirts. I don't have big guns and I'm not fat. Yet I feel like I'm going to tear the fabric when I make a tight curl. I'm getting tired of ordering Italian RTW shirts only to have to return them for lack of room. Crazy.

    Do you guys like a tight, slim cut in the arm??
     
  18. coldinboston

    coldinboston Senior member

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    I personally like a high armhole and a slimmer cut. Of course i dont like it skin tight and restricting movement. Now that you mention it i am flexing my biceps and the shirt gets tight but not to the point that i feel it will rip or anything (ala arnold in the movie twins).
    The difficulty in having these conversations is that ny definition of what slim or tight is may different than yours
     
  19. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I like a high armhole as well and I don't like excess fabric. I've purchased several well known Italian shirt brands in the past 10-15 years with no issue but only in the last year or so have I experienced significant slimming throughout the entire arm while the rest of the shirt is about the same.
     
    2 people like this.
  20. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    Finland
    Gus, summer heats excluded, I always wear shirts as base layers, below knitwear or jackets. This was their original use and still best serves them. After all, shirt fabrics never drape like cloths so they must sit close to the body to look clean, but this doesn't well serve men with guts, poor posture or askew shoulders. With movement the hem will rise up from the trous and pile up, and the shirting will crease sooner or later. For these reasons, the shirt works best under other garments -- no matter how clean or close its cut.
     

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