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Folded Up Shirt P0rn

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, May 23, 2007.

  1. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    Grandi & Rubinelli Royal Oxford 200/2

    Handsewn collar, front yoke, buttonholes, buttons, sleeve and so on. Mop 4 mm button

    Made to measure in Naples by myself. Not my usual wide spread but more conservative one.[​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. PSNY

    PSNY Senior member

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    New CEGO's, Linen is Tessitura Grandi & Rubinellii with beautiful light blue dyed buttons. Glen plaid is S.I.C Tess in 100/2 (best guess). Thanks to Carl for recommending the button down collar on the linen, it came out fantastic!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2015
  3. PSNY

    PSNY Senior member

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    Another new CEGO. Nice light blue stripe. No specifics on the fabric, would guess its a 100/2 or 120/2. Carl said its from an Italian mill. It's buttery and drapes nice.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2015
  4. Turner

    Turner Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Nubby pick-stitching everywhere, shirred shoulders, yoke, armholes and cuffs.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2015
  5. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    I'm sorry, but the pick stitching is too ostentatious for my taste, especially on the placket.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Senior member

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    Use Firefox.
     
  7. PSNY

    PSNY Senior member

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    Who's the maker and what fabric?
     
  8. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I just don't get it.
    the buttonholelooks unfinished.
    not sure what is going on with that button. is that a tail?
    why so long?
    the sleeve placket looks puckered.

    i just don't understand the appeal of the nubs. as they are strictly decorative.
     
  9. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    MOAR HANDWERKZ (or something like that)
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. WSW

    WSW Senior member

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    Received a nice surprise today from London:

    [​IMG]
     
  11. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    But the whole shirt looks machine stitched. It's just a strange order of priorities to add those nubs everywhere on a machine made shirt?
     
  12. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I guess it's no different than the pick stitching on machine-made jackets. The functional elevated (degenerated?) to the purely decorative.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. Turner

    Turner Senior member

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    Yes, the pick stitching is overdone, but I still like it. For 70 Euros, probably never worn, I won't complain.

    Finamore, don't know about the fabric.

    I know you're far more knowledgable about making shirts than I'll ever will be. I can't see why the button hole should be unfinnished. They look like every other handmade button hole at Finamore, Salvatore Piccolo or Cesare Attolini shirts I've came accros.

    The bar tack is located at the 4th button from above. The Italians use them at the end of a seam which is securing the underside of French Plackets from the bottom. Here it is pointless because the seam running all the way from the bottom to the top.

    [​IMG]


    The hole shirts is probably some kind of exhibicion sample, demonstrating what is possible at Finamores MTM program. The pick stitches look more tacky than in reality because of the low lighting.




    I can assure you, the seams of the armholes, yoke, collar and the pick stitching of the placket are hand stitched. Button holes are also handmade. Again, probably an exhibicion sample. It doesn't look more overdone than some shirts at G. Ingleses website.

    Inside of the collar:
    [​IMG]

    Inside of the placket:
    [​IMG]

    Inside of the armhole and yoke:
    [​IMG]



    I would have prefered a thinner / more discrete thread for the pick stitching - but it's just a fun shirt I'll wear strictly at private ocassions. And at 70 Euros a relativly cheap one, given Finamores prices in German haberdasheries.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    this is a hand buttonhole
    Lanvin from the 1980's [​IMG]

    you don't see any fabric through the stitches
     
    6 people like this.
  15. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    Just landed at home for vacation, now got my mac at hand.




    Are several wrong things on that shirt.

    1st; On the proper handfinished shirts on Naples, that is where i work and have practised with tons of brands or big names you won´t see one frontal side done by machine and then the other by hand. This is or a bad attempt to Naples style, or a bad taste comission to what for the brand looks Finamore but i do not see it very well. Or you get both sides by hand or any, but pickstitched with the so called " invisible sewing", ( like the one on the shoulder to avoid it being seen, to add subtle elegance to the shirt instead of this ostentation), never is with this " mezzopunto" as per example has to be on the frontal yoke as is indeed on this shirt. This is Pitti like style, non classic.

    2nd; The " travetto" or bartack where the button is, is so huge that is all by elegant. This is not the way it´s traditionally done.

    3rd; The buttonholes by hand are poor, are fastly made and are faulty of tons of stitches, hence the shirt fabric is seen throught. Bad, very bad.

    The button seems trocas, not Australian mop as there is no rainbow on the button, but might be as is difficult to picture on a camera.



    Finamore is a very good rtw shirt, in fact one of the best, but is poor on bespoke,one of the worst in Naples, as bad that they closed the shop in Naples two weeks ago due that any Neapolitan bought there after everybody knew they are unable to do a good bespoke shirt. Sad, as as i said, their rtw is one of the best.

    . In fact they did a shirt for me years ago, i was measured by their " master" tailor, and had to be done several times more until i got back. That " shirt" was the laugh of tons of other places as Kiton, when i learnt shirts myself.

    Also, they charged me 20 euros to do the mezzopunto on the frontal yoke, and other 20 for the arricio on shoulder, this two things i do by default on the shirts i do nowadays at 0 surcharge, ended paying 320 euros for the worst ever shirt i have had. ( Also a shirt that on any non big name would have costed 120 euros and well made)
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2015
    2 people like this.
  16. Turner

    Turner Senior member

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    Thanks for clarifying.

    Interesting read, lots to learn from your post. I guess the original customer choose the "raw" work to emphasise the "Händwerkz". The underside of the buttons is a bit colored like on other trocas. The buttons are flatter and bigger than at Finamores RTW shirts.
     
  17. IndianBoyz

    IndianBoyz Senior member

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    I kinda like that pick stitching :satisfied:
     
  18. bjornb17

    bjornb17 Senior member

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    Thomas Mason for J. Crew

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A few custom trunk show orders arrived from No Man Walks Alone G. Inglese. Note the hand sewn collar and button holes.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    This last one is a pink end-on-end but my lighting wasn't good enough to show the details of the beautiful fabric.
     
    4 people like this.
  20. bry2000

    bry2000 Senior member

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    Are those Inglese shirts bespoke, MTM, or just MTO from a stock size?
     

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