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Folded Up Shirt P0rn

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, May 23, 2007.

  1. Ataturk

    Ataturk Senior member

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    I have odd shoulders myself, so I appreciate Vox's comment. My pattern is adjusted for the slope (less than usual), the pitch forward (more than usual), protruding shoulder blades (more than usual), etc. The shirt hangs off the shoulders, so it really makes a difference.

    That said, I've found that I don't like an aggressive armhole on shirts. I spend too much time with my arms forward, typing at a computer, and they tended to dig in.
     
  2. jamesbond

    jamesbond Senior member

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    Did you ever try taking your Napolitan RTW shirts to the tailor to improve the fit?

    I ask as I'm considering having the sides taken in on some Finamore and Borrellis.


    I've had this done with fantastic results. Most of my Euro Borrelli's have only needed darts as the shoulders, yoke and arm-holes fit perfectly off the rack. I've had alot of RLPL shirts completely re-cut that have also come out perfectly. For me this has worked out better than bespoke and much cheaper. I guess it's a matter of finding the right bespoke maker that can get your patterned nailed down quickly, I just haven't been able to find one or willing to deal with that hassle anymore. I will probably give T&A another try down the road and maybe Geneva but I'm very happy right now with picking up high-end RTW on deep discount and having them altered.
     
  3. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    orientations of the armholes... [​IMG] [​IMG]

    There's one on each side. [​IMG]


    - B
     
  4. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    I've had this done with fantastic results. Most of my Euro Borrelli's have only needed darts as the shoulders, yoke and arm-holes fit perfectly off the rack. I've had alot of RLPL shirts completely re-cut that have also come out perfectly. For me this has worked out better than bespoke and much cheaper. I guess it's a matter of finding the right bespoke maker that can get your patterned nailed down quickly, I just haven't been able to find one or willing to deal with that hassle anymore. I will probably give T&A another try down the road and maybe Geneva but I'm very happy right now with picking up high-end RTW on deep discount and having them altered.

    I'm surprised that you've found a tailor willing to do all that to a RTW shirt without charging you a lot...but since you have, more power to you.

    Maybe it is worth doing that to some of my favorite old RTW shirts. We'll see.


    - B
     
  5. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    I did, and then I decided it would make more sense to apply that money to picking a shirtmaker and getting new shirts made.
    I've had this done with fantastic results.
    Thank you both for your thoughts. I'll start out with one and see how it goes.

    I was prepared for a big improvement, but it is more dramatic than I thought it would be.
    Good to hear. My own experiment with 'bespoke' shirts never yielded the results I was hoping for. I say 'bespoke' as I wasn't able to meet the shirtmaker in person, me being in Denmark and him being in Brittain. So while a personal pattern was made up, it was based on my own measurements, as was the following changes to the pattern. But after four tries we still couldn't adequately nail the pattern.

    Of course, it shouldn't come as a surprise to anyone that it requires the personal touch of a skilled shirtmaker for the best possible fit.
     
  6. OffTheRack

    OffTheRack Senior member

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    I have no idea how much of this is because Robert Whittaker is a great stylist and shirtmaker, or if most bespoke shirtmakers can duplicate the type of result that I have gotten with him. I can say that I'm very glad that I picked him.


    - B


    If you don't mind my asking, why/how did you decide to try Dege for your bespoke shirts? Were you recommended to Dege by a suit maker? Or do they have a reputation for doing a style you were interested in? Just curious why you chose them given all of the potential options.
     
  7. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If you don't mind my asking, why/how did you decide to try Dege for your bespoke shirts? Were you recommended to Dege by a suit maker? Or do they have a reputation for doing a style you were interested in? Just curious why you chose them given all of the potential options.

    this will answer all your questions:

    http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=142239
     
  8. philosophe

    philosophe Senior member

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    Maybe it is worth doing that to some of my favorite old RTW shirts. We'll see.
    - B


    I have found that my RTW shirts can be improved and that this is fine for casual shirts. On the whole, though, I strongly prefer my custom shirts and buy as many as I can afford each year.

    I, too, really like the blue micro-check in your latest batch, Vox.
     
  9. Ataturk

    Ataturk Senior member

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    I just ordered a cut of the grange, so I'm looking forward to giving it a try. It's 36", which I've never bought before, so I hope 3m is enough. I guess I'll find out the hard way if I'm wrong.
     
  10. OffTheRack

    OffTheRack Senior member

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  11. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    For me this has worked out better than bespoke and much cheaper.

    really.

    just in case. vox' quoted price for the dege's is much lower than most popular RTW.

    despite the nick nacks and fittings nonsense, which is popular among the sf-crowd. a custom made shirt has more soul than anything out of a seamstress. if you can duplicate this with your alteration tailor.

    more power to you.
     
  12. Ataturk

    Ataturk Senior member

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    NVM. I can't read.
     
  13. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    NVM. I can't read.

    how many fittings?
     
  14. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    A few from Manuel Martinez in Baton Rouge.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  15. lovelux2010

    lovelux2010 Senior member

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    The collar shape looks similar to the standard H & K collar.
    Am I correct?


    i brought in an H&K OTR to Sean, and said i liked their collars. He showed me a collar type he does that was similar, but in his opinion more stylish, so i went with his suggestion for a collar which was a bit longer on the tip
     
  16. R.O. Thornhill

    R.O. Thornhill Senior member

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    Sean O'Flynn in Alumo cotton (Zaphir I think)

    [​IMG]
     
  17. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Is it the photo angle or is this collar very high ?

    Great shirt btw
     
  18. R.O. Thornhill

    R.O. Thornhill Senior member

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    Probably a combination. The collar points are 3" and the neckband at the front is 1.5"

    They are taller than my bespoke T&A, but work much better as a consequence. I have quite a thick neck for my size, and the taller collar makes it seem more proportionate
     
  19. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    They are taller than my bespoke T&A, but work much better as a consequence. I have quite a thick neck for my size, and the taller collar makes it seem more proportionate
    Interesting - I've always thought about this the other way around. Tall collars for thin or elongated necks.
     
  20. richardcharles

    richardcharles Well-Known Member

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    I must admit the martinez boys in LA have very good taste. I have seen photos of their work and have always been impressed.
     

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