Folded Up Shirt Appreciation

[Shirtmaven]

Hello sir and I hope you and everyone else is well. Interesting timing of your question. I will be making another visit to my shirtmaker (Anto of Beverly Hills) shortly and they emailed me a file of all the colors available (there are quite a few) in one of my favorite “all around” fabrics. Every order, whether by phone or in person, I have a shirt or two made up in this. This time I’m looking over the pinks and yellows as those are my favorite colors for summer. Here is one of the pages as an example that perhaps you may find helpful.

View attachment 1925619

I rarely have shirts made with button down collars generally but have several other styles made up in this in various colors. Just a very nice wearing fabric with a handsome and somewhat unique “checkered” type of oxford pattern. A real pleasure to wear.

Also, in the “ongoing bespoke” thread, if you take a look at the pink sport coat I commissioned last year from Dege and Skinner, the pale blue shirt I’m wearing is made up in this. The white contrasting collar and cuffs is something else I don’t really remember. Some type of pique from another mill I believe.

In regards to shrinkage, that’s somewhat difficult to gauge and compare because my shirtmaker prewashes all their fabrics. However, I haven’t noticed anything significant.

Anyway, you asked for some suggestions and I thought I would chime in. Hope this helps a little. Everyone have a great day.

The Thomas Mason royal oxford is a very nice quality. It is dressier then what @Sreezy36 is looking for

 

[Sreezy36]

The Thomas Mason royal oxford is a very nice quality. It is dressier then what @Sreezy36 is looking for

Correct. Royal Oxford is perhaps my favorite workhorse dress shirt fabric weave. However, it is dressier than what I am currently looking for.

I would also like to try the permanent style Oxford cloth. However, thst isn’t an option.

So far the recommendations are:
1. TM Oxford cloth
2. China/Chinese Oxford cloth
3. Alumo
*Canclini

 

[Sreezy36]

Any idea on the oxford cloth used by Ralph Lauren Polo?

The old school RL Polo Oxford fabric from the 80’s,90’s, and early 2000’s was damn near indestructible. Decent softness as well. I can imagine that it’s highly sought after by vintage collectors.

The brooksbrothers made in usa Oxford cloth from that era was good as well. A little stiffer though.

 

[Old Red]

i have not see the fabric in person so my comnents are just based on my experience.

Carl, I'm going to bring you a piece next month. Should I wash and iron it first?

 

[Shirtmaven]

I don't think Brooks Brothers used made in the USA oxford after the 1990s
Japan still makes very good oxford cloth. Probably closest to what you are looking for. For me it is a little bit of an issue since it is woven 45" and most fabric is 60" just complicates my cutting.
Buying from Japan is a bit complicated as you buy though an agent and not directly from the mill.
I occasionally find dead stock Japanese fabric that makes up beautifully.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Carl, I'm going to bring you a piece next month. Should I wash and iron it first?

Permanent style claimes it is pre washed.
Only wash and dry if you plan to put in the dryer after washing.

 

[comrade]

Several years ago I bought oxford cloth shirts from
Hilditch and Key. The cloth was on the heavy side.
Reminded me of BB of fifty years ago, possibly heavier.

 

[brax]

It’s really a shame that the PS oxford cloth is perpetually sold out.

I used a bit of foresight and ordered three or four lengths of all PS oxfords as well as the denims and chambray. They really are good stuff. I can send you a length now if you promise to replenish it once it again becomes available.

 

[JohnMRobie]

I used a bit of foresight and ordered three or four lengths of all PS oxfords as well as the denims and chambray. They really are good stuff. I can send you a length now if you promise to replenish it once it again becomes available.

I’d try it. Shoot me a DM. I’ll either zelle you or grab you a length when it comes back.

 

[Shirtmaven]

I need to restock oxford cloth.
I am looking at swatches next week from a Japanese mill. I have been told they stock a nice washed chambray as well.
If there is enough interest I could offer these on my website.
The Japanese use better base cotton then the Chinese versions.

 

[Mr. Six]

I need to restock oxford cloth.
I am looking at swatches next week from a Japanese mill. I have been told they stock a nice washed chambray as well.
If there is enough interest I could offer these on my website.
The Japanese use better base cotton then the Chinese versions.

Interested! Nice write up in Emmy magazine.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Interested! Nice write up in Emmy magazine.

Thank you. You are the second person yo mention. I went to high school with the first...

 

[clothingfun]

Howdy all and I hope everyone is well. Under the “ongoing bespoke” thread a couple weeks ago or so I shared some information about my latest appointment.

I was a bit surprised (in a nice way) in regards to the messages I received asking for information and that I provide updates. Thanks for the interest and kind words. Okay…here you go!

Very briefly, like I mentioned, some minor changes were made to my pattern. Also, the collar height was slightly changed due to me liking a “higher stand” collar for lack of a better term.

I placed a fairly large order. Therefore, the gentleman suggested they start by making only one shirt so I can wash and wear it a couple times and see how I like the adjustments/provide feedback. If I’m good with it, the rest will be made up and shipped.

Anyway, at the end of my appointment, when they asked which one would be first I went with “summery!” Once again, for lack of a better term. I believe the mill was S.I.C. Tess if I remember correctly.

 

[lordsuperb]

@Shirtmaven any insight on the quality and feel of Thomas Mason Chambray?

 

[Shirtmaven]

@Shirtmaven any insight on the quality and feel of Thomas Mason Chambray? View attachment 1963033

I do very little business with Thomas Mason. I have no opinion. 160's are very lightweight. Summer only.