Flat-front vs. single pleats vs. double pleats on dress pants?

[SpallaCamiccia]

Originally Posted by Matt S

Single pleat means there is one pleat on each side, double pleat means two pleats on each side.

Forward and reverse are the directions the pleat opens. Forward opens inwards, reverse opens outward. Reverse pleats are more common these days and are what the Italians prefer. Forward pleats are preferred by the English. They used to be about equally split in America though in the past 20 years the majority of brands switched over to reverse pleats. Ralph Lauren is the biggest name that still sells forward pleats.

Then mine is reverse single pleat, as it does as rectangle in front of the zip.

Right? That one make me look fuller. This neapolitans are great!

 

[Matt S]

Here are some pictures to help:

 

[TheTukker]

Originally Posted by Matt S

Single pleat means there is one pleat on each side, double pleat means two pleats on each side.

Forward and reverse are the directions the pleat opens. Forward opens inwards, reverse opens outward. Reverse pleats are more common these days and are what the Italians prefer. Forward pleats are preferred by the English. They used to be about equally split in America though in the past 20 years the majority of brands switched over to reverse pleats. Ralph Lauren is the biggest name that still sells forward pleats.

Just to add: isn't the SF consensus view that forward pleats go with pants that sit at the natural waist?

 

[SpallaCamiccia]

Originally Posted by Matt S

Here are some pictures to help:

The I like most the single reverse pleats , and never seen a forward pleat.

Perhaps I am too european??

 

[SpallaCamiccia]

Originally Posted by Lonneker

Just to add: isn't the SF consensus view that forward pleats go with pants that sit at the natural waist?

I put my pants below my natural waist. I know it's not the proper way, but I like that way instead of putting as high as on the 1940s.

 

[Matt S]

Originally Posted by Lonneker

Just to add: isn't the SF consensus view that forward pleats go with pants that sit at the natural waist?

I don't think either type of pleats look good when worn lower on the hips. Especially with reverse pleats if worn too low the trousers will look baggier. Polo makes some low-rise forward-pleat trousers these days that look good on the models (though not so good on me). Some people say that forward pleats don't look good with a belt and need braces, but the Duke of Windsor wore his very well with a belt. As long as the trousers are cut well for the person wearing them any style will look good.

 

[TheTukker]

Originally Posted by SpallaCamiccia

The I like most the single reverse pleats , and never seen a forward pleat.

Perhaps I am too european??

Like Matt said, I actually think the English prefer the forward pleat, so not sure it has much to do with being too European. I think you really just have to see them on you to get a sense whether you like them. Again, Matt makes a good point in that they may look good on models/pics, but may be different in real life.

 

[k4lnamja]

Ive a RLBL (blue) suit that has double forward pleats. I don't like it. Can a tailor make my pants into a flat front?

Cheers

 

[SpallaCamiccia]

Originally Posted by Lonneker

Like Matt said, I actually think the English prefer the forward pleat, so not sure it has much to do with being too European. I think you really just have to see them on you to get a sense whether you like them. Again, Matt makes a good point in that they may look good on models/pics, but may be different in real life.

Forward pleats as so rare in South Europe than I havent realiced they did even exist until I saw this.

For me, single pleated reverse ones do look better on me.

Originally Posted by k4lnamja

Ive a RLBL (blue) suit that has double forward pleats. I don't like it. Can a tailor make my pants into a flat front?

Cheers

Yes they can, it has been asked on the forum several times, so I know.

What about the contrary? Can a tailor do a reverse pleat out of a flat front that got extra fabric inside? I would be interested in alter all my never used FF pants to reverse, that way I would't look as Fido Dido.

 

[Matt S]

Originally Posted by k4lnamja

Ive a RLBL (blue) suit that has double forward pleats. I don't like it. Can a tailor make my pants into a flat front?

Cheers

There was something once posted by atailor on Ask Andy. Forward pleats take more effort to properly convert to flat front than reverse pleats. The extra cloth from the large pleat would need to be removed toward the fly instead of toward the pockets. The small pleat should be removed toward the back. There's a lot more reconstruction involved here, whereas with reverse pleats both pleats are removed from the back. It might be more effective to remove the large pleat only and convert the rear to a dart. Or remove the small pleat and stick with single forward pleats.

 

[Matt S]

Originally Posted by SpallaCamiccia

What about the contrary? Can a tailor do a reverse pleat out of a flat front that got extra fabric inside? I would be interested in alter all my never used FF pants to reverse, that way I would't look as Fido Dido.

How much extra fabric is in the side seams? There needs to be 1.5" plus extra for the seam. So there needs to be about 2 inches in there. But this will only work if there are no side pockets. So most likely this conversion won't work. If you trousers are simply just too tight around the seat and/or crotch those areas can be let out.

 

[SpallaCamiccia]

Originally Posted by Matt S

How much extra fabric is in the side seams? There needs to be 1.5" plus extra for the seam. So there needs to be about 2 inches in there. But this will only work if there are no side pockets. So most likely this conversion won't work. If you trousers are simply just too tight around the seat and/or crotch those areas can be let out.

All my trousers do have very extra fabric inside,not sure how much, but I guess the normal on itaian brands, perhaps 5 cm , 2 inches?

But for sure got pockets, haven't seen a matched trouser pocketless yet.

 

[Matt S]

Originally Posted by SpallaCamiccia

All my trousers do have very extra fabric inside,not sure how much, but I guess the normal on itaian brands, perhaps 5 cm , 2 inches?

But for sure got pockets, haven't seen a matched trouser pocketless yet.

Does the extra fabric go down to the knee? Typically trousers are not altered from the side seam and pleats cannot be added. It's most likely not going to work, and I doubt you'll find a tailor willing to do the job. The cost will be high and not worth the effort.

 

[clee1982]

I am experimenting with a Polo II's tourser (triple pleat), remove the excess side and seat but not taper the leg or removing the pleats. I think it might turn out ok, will report... otherwise all my other pants have been flat front except the trouser for a relative Ferre double breast suit.

 

[NewYorkBuck]

Flat fronts just dont have enough room for the manstuff IMO.