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Fixing cuffs on pants

Balthazar

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Ok, so I have a question. I took a few pairs of pants in to a tailor shop here in Sydney. I asked for cuffs on each and a small break. I got the pants back and they are so long that the front of the pant is basically stacking up on the shoe and looks pretty terrible.

The tailor said that the back should come to the top of the heel and that given this fact, the front will necessarily be a bit long, leaving a very full break. Well I consulted the WAYWN thread and decided that the problem was the insistence that the back of the pant hit the top of the heel. I printed a couple pics (of iammatt and edmorel) to demonstrate the look I like (well I prefer a little more break than iammatt but the pic served my purpose). The tailors hated that look and warned that my socks would be visible when walking, blah blah blah.

Anwyay, here's the question. I'm having them try this new approach on a couple new pairs of pants. But would it be possible to adjust the pants they've already cuffed so that they don't look so sloppy in front. Or are cuffs basically irreversible? They were done less than two months ago, have been worn maybe once or twice, and have not been dry cleaned.

p.s. When I brought in the first batch and asked for cuffs, they remarked that no one in Australia gets cuffs any more and that they probably do on average one cuff a month. Maybe I should have turned around and walked out at that point but they come recommended on this board so I stayed.
 

Quirk

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Tell them to make sure they steam them very well before re-cuffing, or faint traces of the previous creases may be visible on the new cuffs. Had that happen once.
 

Balthazar

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Thanks guys. I was hoping that was the answer. So for those of you who like a small break, is there a rule of thumb regarding how far above the top of the heel the back of the pant should hit?
 

alliswell

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It should hit the shoe at the furthest bulge above the heel, or slightly below; any shorter than that will be too short, and any longer will leave you with a break.
 

spectre

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I have just been to my alterations person here in Melbourne to have all my suit pants and even odd flannel flat-front pants tapered to around 20-21 cm at the bottoms, 5 cm cuffs added (false cuff if there wasn't enough hem material) and had them shortened so they touch the top of the shoe with a very slight break.
When they are narrow and you're walking no sock shows so you don't need to worry about that.
They now look the same as edmorel's, perhaps fractionally longer than Matt's and I'm delighted with the new look. Has totally changed my sillouette for the better - the whole suit looks sharper and smarter, not floppy and baggy.
 

a tailor

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the re cuff is easy. have a smaller break on the front. cuffs can be sloped down a small amount in back. usually thats about 1/4".
plain bottoms can be sloped more.
narrow bottoms can be sloped very little, especially if you have a high instep. if its a wider bottom it can be sloped more.
 

thomaus247

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I have to say, your tailor(s) sound a little inflexible. They are supposed to do what you ask, with possible style suggestions, but you shouldn't have to argue with them.
 

Balthazar

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Thanks everyone for the help. I'm not sure I'd say I've had to argue with them, but I've definitely had to do a bit of coaxing. They say they'll do whatever I want but it's clear that they regard my choices as a bit suspect.

I'm going to ask them to redo the cuffs on a a few pants they've done. Given that I originally asked for little break, which is clearly not how they turned out, should I expect them to redo them for free / at a discount? I feel I probably share a bit in the blame in that I didn't communicate (or know at the time) that I didn't need the back to come all the way down to the top of the heel so I don't feel real strongly about getting retribution.
 

thomaus247

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The length of the pant/break is the most important question when you are having pants hemmed. So, If you clearly asked for a small break and you clearly have a heavy break they should redo them no charge. If they said they were going to make them so the back comes down to the top of the heel and you acknowledged that, they may not redo them for free. But I think they should and I think you should hold them to that.
 

GeorgePaul

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Originally Posted by Balthazar
Given that I originally asked for little break, which is clearly not how they turned out, should I expect them to redo them for free / at a discount?
Yes, definitely.
 

JayJay

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I've learned to be very firm with tailors when they insist upon doing things their way. Yet, there have been many times for the sake of expediency that I've redone many hems with cuffs myself. The time and inconvenience of returning the pants, arguing, then returning for pick-up has made me get out my needle and thread. Redoing a hem with cuffs is easy for me to tackle but I won't try to correct other types of alterations.
 

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