Fit Thread 1: The Shirt

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by tiger02, Apr 14, 2006.

  1. tiger02

    tiger02 Militarist

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    My turn to do a Jantzen thread [​IMG] Got two shirts in the mail today, can't tell you what fabric but one is a sumptuous diagonal-weave end on end (I think) and the other is cotton broadcloth (not pictured). The former immediately becomes my best shirt"”the fabric isn't quite as good as FIH Ties' herringbone but the fit is incredible, esp. considering it's my first try. A couple of pics:
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Considering letting the shoulders out a hair, or maybe just have him broaden the back a bit? Also considering bringing in the "˜back waist' a bit, or asking for darts.

    [​IMG][​IMG]
    Nothing to complain about from the front. The cuffs are single cuffs, which I would like to be stiffer next time. No links so the sleeves are hanging at their full length. I went up a quarter inch on the collar from my measured size, but will have to go up another quarter inch. It's snug now without being washed yet. Armholes and sleeves are great, small and slim respectively. Interestingly, the side seams are not gusseted. Guess they cleaned up their stitching at the end of the seam so it doesn't need to be hidden anymore [​IMG]

    Sorry about wrinkliness. Army or not, I don't have an ironing board down here.

    Tom
     


  2. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    I like the shirt. Thoughts:

    You might want to put in some side shoulder pleats. The back looks fine at rest, but you're pulling way too tight, and the pleats would help.

    Do the sleeves sit right with links? Is there too much material up the jacket sleeve?

    Just a theory, but I think a more pointed collar might work better for you. It could lengthen your neck and help to balance chest/torso.

    Is this your first order?
     


  3. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I like the shirt. Thoughts:

    You might want to put in some side shoulder pleats. The back looks fine at rest, but you're pulling way too tight, and the pleats would help.

    Do the sleeves sit right with links? Is there too much material up the jacket sleeve?

    Just a theory, but I think a more pointed collar might work better for you. It could lengthen your neck and help to balance chest/torso.

    Is this your first order?


    Chorse beat me to it. I second the suggestion for shoulder pleats. You might consider a narrower collar with longer points, too, though I think this one looks pretty good. And I agree about having the waist tapered.

    Did you ask for gussets? I seem to recall that you have to request them.
     


  4. tiger02

    tiger02 Militarist

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    Yeah, first order, self measured. I didn't feel quite right having one of my soldiers take a tape measure to me [​IMG]

    No cufflinks out here, they might be a coming ebay purchase. I've been eyeing the Murano glass ones someone pointed out a while back, but hesitating given the environment. It's hard to say on the sleeves--where do others have them hit when unbuttoned? There's not much extra fabric inside the jacket sleeve, but there are other challenges with that jacket.

    I do prefer the look of a plain back, but you might be right about pleats, I'll have to try them out. For the neck I'm going to go shorter height and longer points, definitely. Trim down the waist...what, an inch? There's not a lot of room there, in my current shape. Two is the most I could comfortably take out.

    Thanks for the input!
    Tom
     


  5. Matt

    Matt [email protected]

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    did Ricky make the pants Tom? And Meaculpa the belt?
     


  6. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    I think that it looks great. I would not worry much about the back waist. You need somewhere for your bulk to go when you sit down. I like a shirt to be very clean in front, but like a little comfort in back.

    Collar points should be longer, but I think the spread is fine. Sleeves should be a touch longer in my opinion. When new I like them to hit the bottom of the top thumb knuckle when unbuttoned.

    Overall, it is the best fit Jantzen that I have seen.
     


  7. Sartorially Challenged

    Sartorially Challenged Senior member

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    Nice digital BDU pants. How long have you had them?
     


  8. Fritz

    Fritz Senior member

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    I think the collar points should be longer, but the angle is fine. Also I don't think you should lower the height if you plan on wearing the shirt with jacket and tie.
     


  9. kcgreg

    kcgreg Senior member

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    Fantastic for a first try.[​IMG] Enjoy the wearing of the shirt.
     


  10. Garfieldthecat

    Garfieldthecat Senior member

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    /joke

    Is this the new Urban Assault uniform? Cammies and dress shirt? [​IMG]
     


  11. Fuuma

    Fuuma Franchouillard Modasse

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    Judging from this and the picture on ask andy I definitely wouldn't start a bar brawl with you.

    1)Don't make it tighter in the back, you need to be able to sit down, move around etc, you're not posing 100% of the time are you?

    2)I would actually take a slightly lower collar, they've got some small ones and it's a nice option. I like the spread though, should look dashing with a tie.

    3) It's a great fit IMHO, loads better than what I often got by paying 5 times that amount so those are minor quibbles.

    4)It's difficult to say from the pictures but I'd say the sleeve lenght is fine.

    5)I'd wash the shirt 4-5 times before making any adjustment
     


  12. tiger02

    tiger02 Militarist

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    /joke

    Is this the new Urban Assault uniform? Cammies and dress shirt? [​IMG]

    Look out ladies! This cat's on the prowl...

    Matt, good notes, thanks. [email protected] edition on both points. Don't tell him I told you, but Dimitri is already looking to cut costs by making belts out of a synthetic leather he's calling "nylon." lawyerdad--Dimitri is meaculpa, fixes shoes and makes belts.

    Challenged, fielded the ACUs (digital camo) right before this deployment, back in October. I hate velcro and zippers, but at least the fly is still button.

    Yeah, given other first orders I've seen, I'm extremely happy overall!
    Tom
     


  13. Jovan

    Jovan Banned for Good

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    What I don't get is why they have to make everything half synthetic in militaries now...
     


  14. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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    The fit looks quite fine as it is. I think it's reasonably trim for a dress shirt. Impressive for a first try at self measurement given your ...uh... unusual body shape [​IMG] Maybe the armholes could be risen a little bit if still possible. !luc
     


  15. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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    What I don't get is why they have to make everything half synthetic in militaries now...
    because synthetic is better for this kind of clothes: breathers better, waterproof, gets dry quicker...etc !luc
     


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