Fit/Style Vs Construction/Materials

[DrewMill]

Hi everyone! Long time lurker here. I finally decided to sign up and join the discussion. I was hoping to get some feedback on an issue that's been bugging me for a while.

I've been in the process on building my wardrobe for a little while, but I keep wavering back and forth on two suiting brands to really commit to this process. I know I don't HAVE to stick to one brand, but I'm the kind of person who when I find something that works, I run with it. Eliminate decision fatigue and all that. I'm hesitant to mention the brands because I don't want that to affect any potential responses. Both brands are OTR, because I'm not in a financial position to go MTM or bespoke at this point. One brand is fits me a little better, but the materials and construction are slightly lower than the other brand. The other brand doesn't suit my body quite as well (still pretty good, but not as good as the other) and is slightly more conservative, but the quality of the wools and construction is higher.

My question is this. Should I be focusing more on fit or quality and (potential) longevity of the suits I'm buying? I know both are important, but I'm curious should be weighted higher. I'm sure a lot of people people might respond that this is all personal preference, but I'd love to hear any feedback that anyone is willing to offer. Thanks!

 

[Tramlines]

Hi there,

It is okay to name the brands - we won't tell anyone

Sounds like you are doing well to work out your own clothing values and aesthetics and have already narrowed down.

Is it possible there might be other RTW brands out there which you have not tried?
Your taste in clothing may change with age (as well as waistline) so striking a balance between fit vs quality of material is something we all struggle with in RTW.

I like a certain American cult designer missing the letter g from something birds lay a lot. I can size myself off the internet and the fit is extraordinary for RTW but the materials, with polywools, viscose, polyester or blended wools sometimes are never as high as another British cult designer I like and wear, which doesn't quite fit like a glove, but uses estate wools, limens, bespoke mill fabrics.

Maybe you could try posting fit shots to work out which feedback you prefer to base your choice on. If you are happy with the quality of the material and it doesn't fit as a suit, it will always hang uncomfortably and look like an overpriced ill fitting suit. Equally, overthinking it doesnt help! Does anyone other than you really notice?

 

[DrewMill]

Hi there,

It is okay to name the brands - we won't tell anyone

Sounds like you are doing well to work out your own clothing values and aesthetics and have already narrowed down.

Is it possible there might be other RTW brands out there which you have not tried?
Your taste in clothing may change with age (as well as waistline) so striking a balance between fit vs quality of material is something we all struggle with in RTW.

I like a certain American cult designer missing the letter g from something birds lay a lot. I can size myself off the internet and the fit is extraordinary for RTW but the materials, with polywools, viscose, polyester or blended wools sometimes are never as high as another British cult designer I like and wear, which doesn't quite fit like a glove, but uses estate wools, limens, bespoke mill fabrics.

Maybe you could try posting fit shots to work out which feedback you prefer to base your choice on. If you are happy with the quality of the material and it doesn't fit as a suit, it will always hang uncomfortably and look like an overpriced ill fitting suit. Equally, overthinking it doesnt help! Does anyone other than you really notice?

Thanks for the advice! I have a few pictures I took. The brands are Suitsupply and Brooks Brothers. (Also one Boggi for comparison). I'd appreciate any and all feedback.

Brooks Brothers 1818 Regent Suit Jacket

Brooks Brothers Regent Hopsack Sport Coat

Suitsupply Havana Sport Coat

Boggi Sport Coat

 

[Tramlines]

Hi Again,

I was wondering if you had custom made left handed suits with the blazer pockets on the left whilst you were using your left hand, then I realised you were shooting the photos in a mirror!

First glance - you have a very good fit all round with the structured blazer styles - works very well in all of the jackets. The shoulders are balanced; I like the sleeve lengths which some might find too short, however this kind of work wear sleeve length is eminently more practical and less troublesome - particularly well suited for the informal dress down look with a structured blazer. The lengths of the jackets are very close and all very well balanced with the lowest button plane parallel to the pocket (not flap) with only no.3 being an odd ball They're all fine fitting and you shouldn't have any reservation wearing any jacket even if surrounded by hawkeyed fashionistas!

Looking closely, the top two Brooks jackets have a comfortable fit; better closure and length is near perfect, just above the start of the rise. I like the top jacket for its informality best - it seems to form less creases and offers more room. In this respect, the 3rd jacket in Havana is too loose around the waist. Its unfinished patch pockets rather unfitting for a structured blazer and the positioning of the lowest button rather peculiar in relation to the pockets. The fact that it is darted at the front too, makes it all the more bewildering, since this should be a jacket which has been designed to fit better. The Boggi sport coat seems to have a lovely texture and fabric pattern on my monitor screen, although the fit is as good as the top two Brooks, possibly due to the fabric weight or quality? I don't know...is it slightly 'looser' which is problematic for a structured blazer ... but not so for other unstructured blazers? You can see the Boggi offers less panel 'stretch' with the top button done up, compared to the Brooks.

For the working sleeve cuffs, the 1st is hard to comment on since the stitching hasn't been sorted and the Boggi looks great for RTW. My guess is that you are love with the rustic colour of the Havana, alas this is the least well fitting of the four jackets! Perhaps it might be rescued by tailoring in slightly to resolve the looseness.

Although the top two Brooks jackets have better overall close fits for the body, but perhaps not the sleeves, where the Boggi is actually no mean contender. I see too that the Brooks button detailing is very average. The buttons are bland; probably plastic instead of oxhorn or laser cut? The Boggi buttons remind me of the real horn buttons with assymmetric crescent moon designs of Barena Venezia buttons. It seems to have more detailing and the sleeves work better than the no.1 Brooks.

So on balance, I'd sit on the fence: go for the Boggi and the top Brooks. I don't know which ones cost more, since I've never owned any of these brands - maybe others can help

 

[DrewMill]

Hi Again,

I was wondering if you had custom made left handed suits with the blazer pockets on the left whilst you were using your left hand, then I realised you were shooting the photos in a mirror!

First glance - you have a very good fit all round with the structured blazer styles - works very well in all of the jackets. The shoulders are balanced; I like the sleeve lengths which some might find too short, however this kind of work wear sleeve length is eminently more practical and less troublesome - particularly well suited for the informal dress down look with a structured blazer. The lengths of the jackets are very close and all very well balanced with the lowest button plane parallel to the pocket (not flap) with only no.3 being an odd ball They're all fine fitting and you shouldn't have any reservation wearing any jacket even if surrounded by hawkeyed fashionistas!

Looking closely, the top two Brooks jackets have a comfortable fit; better closure and length is near perfect, just above the start of the rise. I like the top jacket for its informality best - it seems to form less creases and offers more room. In this respect, the 3rd jacket in Havana is too loose around the waist. Its unfinished patch pockets rather unfitting for a structured blazer and the positioning of the lowest button rather peculiar in relation to the pockets. The fact that it is darted at the front too, makes it all the more bewildering, since this should be a jacket which has been designed to fit better. The Boggi sport coat seems to have a lovely texture and fabric pattern on my monitor screen, although the fit is as good as the top two Brooks, possibly due to the fabric weight or quality? I don't know...is it slightly 'looser' which is problematic for a structured blazer ... but not so for other unstructured blazers? You can see the Boggi offers less panel 'stretch' with the top button done up, compared to the Brooks.

For the working sleeve cuffs, the 1st is hard to comment on since the stitching hasn't been sorted and the Boggi looks great for RTW. My guess is that you are love with the rustic colour of the Havana, alas this is the least well fitting of the four jackets! Perhaps it might be rescued by tailoring in slightly to resolve the looseness.

Although the top two Brooks jackets have better overall close fits for the body, but perhaps not the sleeves, where the Boggi is actually no mean contender. I see too that the Brooks button detailing is very average. The buttons are bland; probably plastic instead of oxhorn or laser cut? The Boggi buttons remind me of the real horn buttons with assymmetric crescent moon designs of Barena Venezia buttons. It seems to have more detailing and the sleeves work better than the no.1 Brooks.

So on balance, I'd sit on the fence: go for the Boggi and the top Brooks. I don't know which ones cost more, since I've never owned any of these brands - maybe others can help

Wow, that's quite the analysis. And pretty spot on too! The fabric of the Boggi is is fantastic. It's a very soft Barberis flannel.

I would agree that the details of the Boggi are more unique than the Brooks. But the Brooks have a nice fit. I do like the 4" lapels of the Boggi, while the 3" on the Brooks are just ok. (I actually like the 3.5" lapels of the Suitsupply the best.)

I was surprised to read your comments on the Suitsupply, but now that you point out the button placement and looseness I see them too.

Suitsupply is the least expensive of the four, while the Boggi and Brooks Brothers are in the same price range. However, Brooks Brothers is much easier for me to order and return as I live in the US. The Boggi jacket was a gamble. One that paid off, but I don't know if I want to take the risk every time I shop.

I cannot tell you how much I appreciate the advice. I was hesitant to join and post, but I am extremely glad that I did!

 

[jaxenro]

Which BrooksBrothers are they? Golden Fleece is a step up from Black Fleece and Red Fleece and all are better than 346.

 

[jaxenro]

Regent btw is a fit vs Golden, Red, Black fleece and 1818 are more quality grades. Being not so trim I tend towards Madison fit and avoid Fitzgerald

You can get a Regent fit in most of the quality grades. If the flag pin came on the garment it was made in the USA

 

[DrewMill]

Regent btw is a fit vs Golden, Red, Black fleece and 1818 are more quality grades. Being not so trim I tend towards Madison fit and avoid Fitzgerald

You can get a Regent fit in most of the quality grades. If the flag pin came on the garment it was made in the USA

Thanks! The suit (top one) is a made in the USA 1818. The blue jacket (2nd one) is also an 1818. Imported though.

 

[jaxenro]

1818 is a good solid dependable choice. I might be wrong on the different Fleece grades Red I think is geared towards a somewhat younger audience and Golden and Black are different but it might be due to the style more than the quality. I like the Country Club a lot but then I am going for the older ivy style or country club look anyway. Made to Measure is probably the best in terms of fabrics available

I own quite a bit of B.B. mainly because I like the look and quality but partially because I get an employee discount and it would seem odd to work for Ford and drive a Chevy.

But I work in IT not design or production so for the most part it’s all just descriptions on a page to me.

 

[Tramlines]

Wow, that's quite the analysis. And pretty spot on too! The fabric of the Boggi is is fantastic. It's a very soft Barberis flannel.

I would agree that the details of the Boggi are more unique than the Brooks. But the Brooks have a nice fit. I do like the 4" lapels of the Boggi, while the 3" on the Brooks are just ok. (I actually like the 3.5" lapels of the Suitsupply the best.)

I was surprised to read your comments on the Suitsupply, but now that you point out the button placement and looseness I see them too.

Suitsupply is the least expensive of the four, while the Boggi and Brooks Brothers are in the same price range. However, Brooks Brothers is much easier for me to order and return as I live in the US. The Boggi jacket was a gamble. One that paid off, but I don't know if I want to take the risk every time I shop.

I cannot tell you how much I appreciate the advice. I was hesitant to join and post, but I am extremely glad that I did!

Hey thanks - I worked as a photographer for years seeing many mens suits cut and donned to make any camera lens break

Thanks for sharing too - there are some helpful posts from posters out there if they happen to have time at the right time. I've learnt a lot from you too - Boggi I know nothing of, although I love Italian soft tailoring and traditional estate fabric by the usual, as well as less well-reknown makers. It's wider lapels suit you. I love these wide collars on coats although lately tried experimenting wearing finer collar and lapels.

We have Brooks Brothers here in England too. I think they have a few branches in London and are a high street mall brand of decent quality. Suitsupply I've never heard of - must be a US brand? I love American clothing like the smaller cult label Engineered Garments which is really hard to try on for size before buying here. I ended up with standard Armani Collezioni or Hugo Boss suits just because of the fit. For everyday wear it's fine - although younger contemporary makers like the Danish Hansen, make some eccentrically modelled traditional suits which are just stunning for fit and material.

Now to hunt for Boggi to find out more about them - thanks for introducing me to them.

 

[DrewMill]

Hey thanks - I worked as a photographer for years seeing many mens suits cut and donned to make any camera lens break

Thanks for sharing too - there are some helpful posts from posters out there if they happen to have time at the right time. I've learnt a lot from you too - Boggi I know nothing of, although I love Italian soft tailoring and traditional estate fabric by the usual, as well as less well-reknown makers. It's wider lapels suit you. I love these wide collars on coats although lately tried experimenting wearing finer collar and lapels.

We have Brooks Brothers here in England too. I think they have a few branches in London and are a high street mall brand of decent quality. Suitsupply I've never heard of - must be a US brand? I love American clothing like the smaller cult label Engineered Garments which is really hard to try on for size before buying here. I ended up with standard Armani Collezioni or Hugo Boss suits just because of the fit. For everyday wear it's fine - although younger contemporary makers like the Danish Hansen, make some eccentrically modelled traditional suits which are just stunning for fit and material.

Now to hunt for Boggi to find out more about them - thanks for introducing me to them.

Suitsupply is actually a Dutch brand which manufactures mostly in China. Their lame to fame is their sourcing of fabrics. I've heard their construction isn't on the level of Brooks Brothers or Boggi, but I like some of their offerings.

Boggi is an Italian brand which I was introduced to earlier this past year.

 

[jaxenro]

I looked it up and stand corrected. Black Fleece is Thom Brown designed and high grade. Red Fleece is the old University line or a younger preppier look and Golden Fleece is a bit better than 1818 but pricier