Fit quality increase

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by hopkins_student, Apr 26, 2005.

  1. hopkins_student

    hopkins_student Senior member

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    Which jump do you think is going to result in the largest absolute jump in quality of fit, RTW to MTM or MTM to bespoke?
     


  2. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Depends on your definition. Do you mean no alterations? Or after reasonable alterations?

    If the former, going from RTW to MTM. If the latter, I think there is a better case that the bigger leap is going from MTM to bespoke. Case in point -- I simply can't fit in 98% of RTW suits OTR with no alterations, as they are too big in the waist. But after about $80 worth of tailoring, my OTR normally fit me as well as my MTM (MTM pants fit better, but not the coats).
     


  3. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    It also depends on your body shape.  Body shape can be hard to fit for two basic reasons: odd size (whether overall, or certain elements) and "irregularity".  If you are simply an odd size, or have a big chest-waist drop, or long arms, then the leap from RTW to MTM will be significant, but the leap from MTM to bespoke less so.  But if you have (say) a rounded back, asymetrically sloping sholders, bow legs, or any number of irregularities, then the leap from MTM to bespoke (done well) will be much greater.
     


  4. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    You can't make the comparison, even on an average. RTW to MTM will get you the most in the way of unnecessary fabric removal. But MTM comes in all forms, from the lowest of self-measuring (Ripley Shirt, most Asian on-line companies) to virtual self-measuring (Tom James and the like) to mid-level Asian (like Chan) to top levels (like the many Gamberts when bought through a store). Your best options, most of which you already know, are to use places like CEGO, Paris, Geneva, Flusser, or the Gamberts (in person). That is what will get you the most bang for your buck and will certainly fit better than any of the MTM options. Edit: Sorry - thought you meant shirts. Shall go hide now.
     


  5. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I think that he's talking about everything from shirts to pants to suits to overcoats, etc., Alex. The whole enchilada.

    This is why I asked the alterations question. You just can't find many tailors willing to do the same type of alterations to an OTR shirt that they'll do to an OTR suit (my tailor absolutely refuses to do shirts period, as he thinks it's a losing proposition for him financially). So, while I think that going MTM to bespoke for a suit gives me a bigger jump than going from OTR with alterations to MTM, going from an OTR shirt to a MTM shirt (even self-measuring, Alex.) is a HUGE leap.
     


  6. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    Yeah. That's what I thought I said:

    P.S.: Although by "OTR" we understand what you mean, "RTW" is more correct for shirts as they are generally shelved, not racked. Suits, on the other hand, are generally OTR.

    Edit: I do, however, prefer my enchiladas bespoke. I was going to post that in the Food forum, but I've never been there before.
     


  7. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What in the world do New Yorkers know about enchiladas?
     


  8. hopkins_student

    hopkins_student Senior member

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    Well, I guess I originally intended to ask about suits, but I don't see why an answer about shirts wouldn't be equally useful. Thank you all for your replies.
     


  9. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I only buy shirts that are hung up on racks.
     


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