Fit opinion on 2 suits

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mech IFR, Aug 14, 2010.

  1. mech IFR

    mech IFR Well-Known Member

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    Hey all, I've been lurking the forums for several months trying to absorb as much as possible. You guys are a fantastic resource and to say I've learned a lot from these forums would be an understatement. So I'm a relative newb to quality clothes. My typical suits in the past have been of the JAB variety. I guess I would say that I'm slowly trying to build a decent quality wardrobe. Actually, the thrift-bragging thread has gotten me into a few shops recently, which is the reason for this post. Below are two suits I picked up from a local thrift shop. There are no manufactures labels other than the tailor's (Sills, pictured below). The garments seem to be of great build quality, but that's where one of my questions on in: 1. Do the jackets immediately scream "too small"? If so, is there anything I could do to salvage them? 2. What would you consider the style of these jackets? The tailor tags have them produced in the early 80s. 3. What features on a jacket are indicative of quality? The button hole tailoring and surgeon's cuffs were my first sign. What else would one look for? Any other general constructive criticism would be greatly appreciated. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] If it's of any help, I'm 6'2" at 185lbs. Thanks in advance for your thoughts. The learning process continues!
     


  2. chrisb0109

    chrisb0109 Senior member

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    too small.

    There is a difference between a suit being slim, even tight, and being the wrong size. Unfortunately these are the latter.
     


  3. mech IFR

    mech IFR Well-Known Member

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    too small.

    There is a difference between a suit being slim, even tight, and being the wrong size. Unfortunately these are the latter.


    I appreciate the quick response. What are you looking for (fit-wise) from the pics that makes you think they are too small? Sleeves? Back? I'd like to avoid this in the future if possible. Thanks!
     


  4. hand-woven1

    hand-woven1 Member

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    The quality of the garmets look good but the jackets are way too short and the shoulders are too small! Sorry, no way these will work for you IMO.
     


  5. chrisb0109

    chrisb0109 Senior member

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    The length of everything is my main problem. It just not proportional to your body.

    While short jackets are fashionable now, the shortness of these jackets is as a result of a generally too small size, causing the shape of the torso to sit too high compared to your own. The narrowest part of the jacket seems to sit below your chest rather than at your waist.

    This is of course only part of the problem. The small size is also evident in the shoulders and armpits.
     


  6. cross22

    cross22 Senior member

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  7. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    Their both a bit too tight in the body, but no unbearably so. The main problem is the length, both overall and of the sleeves. Even if you're going for a fashion-forward length of jacket, the sleeve length is just crazy. You're meant to show 1/4-1/2" of shirt cuff, not 3 inches...

    I'd say the shoulders are also a bit too narrow for you.

    Unfortunately I doubt there will be enough fabric to length then sleeves as much as would be necessary, and you certainly can't lengthen the jacket itself by much, so there's not a lot you can do about these.
     


  8. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    Look like some short-sleeved suits to me.
     


  9. mech IFR

    mech IFR Well-Known Member

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    The length of everything is my main problem. It just not proportional to your body.

    While short jackets are fashionable now, the shortness of these jackets is as a result of a generally too small size, causing the shape of the torso to sit too high compared to your own. The narrowest part of the jacket seems to sit below your chest rather than at your waist.

    This is of course only part of the problem. The small size is also evident in the shoulders and armpits.


    Good info. Naive question but, in relation to the waist of trousers, where should the bottom of the jacket sit? Are there different lengths for different styles?


    Their both a bit too tight in the body, but no unbearably so. The main problem is the length, both overall and of the sleeves. Even if you're going for a fashion-forward length of jacket, the sleeve length is just crazy. You're meant to show 1/4-1/2" of shirt cuff, not 3 inches...

    I'd say the shoulders are also a bit too narrow for you.

    Unfortunately I doubt there will be enough fabric to length then sleeves as much as would be necessary, and you certainly can't lengthen the jacket itself by much, so there's not a lot you can do about these.


    I agree with the length of the sleeves. I'll drop by my tailor today and see if he thinks anything can be done. If not (most likely), I'll simply continue my bargain search. Again, I appreciate the comments.
     


  10. tazmaniac

    tazmaniac Senior member

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    What on earth made you think these were NOT too small?
     


  11. mech IFR

    mech IFR Well-Known Member

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    What on earth made you think these were NOT too small?

    Two things:

    1. My overall lack of experience in suit fit and style

    2. My general impression that contemporary styling was a bit on the tight/short side. Also, both suits were $6 total..... I see this as a cheap learning experience more than anything. I'd rather screw up the sizing on a $3 suit than d $1,200 one [​IMG] .
     


  12. phoenixrecon

    phoenixrecon Senior member

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    youve got a good thome brown look going on.
     


  13. furo

    furo Senior member

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    Both are what I consider "non-starters"

    Even TB himself might tell you to lengthen them. But if you honestly feel comfortable stepping out of the house wearing either of these, I'd say rock on.
     


  14. Stanley the 2nd

    Stanley the 2nd Active Member

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    The jackets are so small they look ridiculous. sorry.
     


  15. scurvyfreedman

    scurvyfreedman Senior member

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    Look at Vox's Weekly WAYWRN http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=165694 thread to see proper fit. Scroll through the months of selected pictures. It will give you an idea of proper fit that is sometimes narrow, but always properly sized. It will also give you an idea of acceptable sleeve length. There is a range, but the range only extends to about 1/2" of shirt sleeve showing with button cuffs and maybe 3/4" with double or French cuffs. What do the jackets measure across the chest under the armpits and across the shoulders sleeve the sleeve in back. I might be willing to take this off your hands for a profit enough to tailor your first suit that's close enough to your true measurements.
     


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