Fit of overcoats? Less tailoring better?

[Mr. Mystery]

I have a few overcoats, somewhat slimmer in design, wouldn't fit over a suit, but heavy sweater.

I've had them both taken in/slimmed pre SF, but lately I've felt like having them let out more in waist suppression downwards slimming. Is it the better look to have a straighter lined back or one that curves with the back inwards than out over the but. Although this silhouette looks ideal for suits, I'm finding the overcoats I have can tend to look a bit womanly in curvature. They are not super tight, and have enuff room to squeeze a scarf under, but I'm beginning to feel they should be looser around the body for a better silhouette, with a solid straight drape from shoulders/back downwards.

Thoughts on this would be very appreciated.

Edit: Oh yeah, my overcoats are mid thigh in length.

 

[jambo]

I'm not sure that there is a single answer to this. It depends on personal preference and overall style. For example, I would not feel comfortable rocking an overcoat with this much waist suppression, but I have to admit it looks OK on this guy.

http://www.thesartorialist.com/photo...me_6905Web.jpg

 

[JamesX]

I like my overcoat with a slight waist suppression. Nothing dramatic, just a very slight one. But I live in Southern CA, so overcoats are light affairs and can be a bit slimmer without any problems.

 

[Mr. Mystery]

jambo, mine fit the same as his bassically, but I'm a thinner guy, and not cut to wear a suit under.

That picture isn't the best example because his arm is in the way of most of the back.

I've also noted that they can often skirt out at the bottom kinda dress like, which I'm not too fond of.

Also waist suppression is different with a topcoat as in it's one slimmed line down, for me anyway, the coat naturally curves inwards and out down the back though. I guess because of it's general tightness.

 

[JayJay]

I like my overcoats to be as well fitting as my suits.

 

[Mr. Mystery]

"I like my overcoats to be as well fitting as my suits." - jayjay

That's the thing! I'm beginning to feel that it shouldn't be tailored like a suit because a suit stops shorter. Where an overcoat goes longer, I feel you'd want less suppression because of the longer length skirting out at the bottom would appear more dress (woman's) like and less cape like, with a clean line down.

 

[landshark]

Wear a suit, and then have it tailored to fit over the suit.

 

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Mr. Mystery

"I like my overcoats to be as well fitting as my suits." - jayjay

That's the thing! I'm beginning to feel that it shouldn't be tailored like a suit because a suit stops shorter. Where an overcoat goes longer, I feel you'd want less suppression because of the longer length skirting out at the bottom would appear more dress (woman's) like and less cape like, with a clean line down.
My overcoats don't skirt out at the bottom like that.

 

[Mr. Mystery]

"My overcoats don't skirt out at the bottom like that." -jayjay

Perhaps it's the fabric.

 

[cptjeff]

^No, that would be the cut. The maker controls what the skirt of a garment looks like too.

 

[mic]

Originally Posted by jambo

I'm not sure that there is a single answer to this. It depends on personal preference and overall style. For example, I would not feel comfortable rocking an overcoat with this much waist suppression, but I have to admit it looks OK on this guy.

http://www.thesartorialist.com/photo...me_6905Web.jpg

respectfully, it doesn't look good at all on this guy.

 

[JayJay]

^^^Yep, cut.

 

[westinghouse]

Best to wear something a few times before having it tailored for fine tuning.

 

[DocHolliday]

As with both suits and sportcoats, there's good waist suppression and bad waist suppression. I don't think a coat should be tight, but that doesn't mean it can't be shaped. Tightness is a separate issue, and often the result of trying to cinch in RTW.

In the modernized take on Sherlock Holmes that recently aired on BBC/PBS, Sherlock wears a very nifty coat that is nicely shaped, when viewed from the back, but doesn't look at all feminine.

 

[cptjeff]

No, no, no! You have it all wrong! Anything with more shaping than a 4 size too large t-shirt means you bat for the other team!