Fit of Barba and Finamore

[foto010101]

Hello,

I could not find the specific information I am searching for, so I will start a new thread here.

Recently I ordered two Barba Napoli shirts, one 16" 100% linen shirt and one 16" 100% cotton shirt. Strangely enough the linen shirt fits perfectly, but the cotton shirt is too tight. It is pretty tight around the chest and there is almost no free space in the arm pit area. This arm pit problem makes stretching your arms forward, when driving a car for example, uncomfortable: the shirt is literally pulling you back.

My neck measures 15.75". However, because I work out I prefer a 16" collar or sometimes even a 16.5" collar which means more chest space. I am not sure, but having an oversized collar does not necessarily result in a strange look, does it?

My questions are:

1. Why does the Barba shirt leave too little space in the arm pit area? I am inclined to think that the sleeves of the shirt are positioned quite highly on the body of the shirt, is this true?

2. Does the problem above also count for Finamore shirts?

3. What size should I choose in the future? I would like to order a Finamore for example.

Please give me your opinions,

Mike

 

[pfr0g]

Although most of my experiences are in the cut of Borrellis as I prefer them for my RTW shirts it applies to most other Italian shirt makers. There are several cuts of shirt and some are slimmer then others.

For example Borrelli has:

Classico and Club- Niemen Marcus, Saks, Barneys(?) and the like carry this. Tends to run a bit fuller. I think Barneys may carry Brook cut but since the NYC store is right across for the Borrelli Boutique I don’t see a reason for getting shirts there.
Brook- Slimmer European cut Borreli Boutique carries this almost exclusively


These are the two most popular but they also have dressing and club (Possibly others?)

From the Braba shirts I do have the gold label ones seem to be cut like the Brook Borrelli. I have also noticed that the "fuller" cut Barbas run a tad slimmer then the Borrelli Clasico and Club fits.

I assume you bought these online unless you would have had the chance e to try them on. Shopthefinest.com lists every measurement you can want. I suggest using them and paying close attention to the sizing. Ian does a great job listing the shirts measurements. If you search through his Braba shirts you will notice the size differences among the same neck size shirts.

Hope this helps.


1. Why does the Barba shirt leave too little space in the arm pit area? I am inclined to think that the sleeves of the shirt are positioned quite highly on the body of the shirt, is this true?

The high armpit is a result of the slimmer cut. The shirts chest may be too small for you.

2. Does the problem above also count for Finamore shirts?

Depends, I belive Finamore offers diffrent cuts as well. Look at the measurements. Ian from STF sells this brand as well.

3. What size should I choose in the future? I would like to order a Finamore for example.

Dont get an oversized neck it will look ridiculous imo. Paying 300+ retail for a shirt that does not fit would be insane. Just pay atention to the other measurments.

Truly your best bet sounds like custom since you have a larger chest and smaller neck.

 

[whnay.]

In my experience Finamore runs true to neck size but are very slim fitting. Meaning if you are even slightly overweight it was pull tight.

 

[foto010101]

Originally Posted by pfr0g

Although most of my experiences are in the cut of Borrellis as I prefer them for my RTW shirts it applies to most other Italian shirt makers. There are several cuts of shirt and some are slimmer then others. For example Borrelli has: Classico and Club- Niemen Marcus, Saks, Barneys(?) and the like carry this. Tends to run a bit fuller. I think Barneys may carry Brook cut but since the NYC store is right across for the Borrelli Boutique I don't see a reason for getting shirts there. Brook- Slimmer European cut Borreli Boutique carries this almost exclusively These are the two most popular but they also have dressing and club (Possibly others?) From the Braba shirts I do have the gold label ones seem to be cut like the Brook Borrelli. I have also noticed that the "fuller" cut Barbas run a tad slimmer then the Borrelli Clasico and Club fits. I assume you bought these online unless you would have had the chance e to try them on. Shopthefinest.com lists every measurement you can want. I suggest using them and paying close attention to the sizing. Ian does a great job listing the shirts measurements. If you search through his Braba shirts you will notice the size differences among the same neck size shirts. Hope this helps. 1. Why does the Barba shirt leave too little space in the arm pit area? I am inclined to think that the sleeves of the shirt are positioned quite highly on the body of the shirt, is this true? The high armpit is a result of the slimmer cut. The shirts chest may be too small for you. 2. Does the problem above also count for Finamore shirts? Depends, I belive Finamore offers diffrent cuts as well. Look at the measurements. Ian from STF sells this brand as well. 3. What size should I choose in the future? I would like to order a Finamore for example. Dont get an oversized neck it will look ridiculous imo. Paying 300+ retail for a shirt that does not fit would be insane. Just pay atention to the other measurments. Truly your best bet sounds like custom since you have a larger chest and smaller neck.
Hi, Thanks a lot for your advice! I will take this seriously into account. Thanks, Mike

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by foto010101

Hi, Thanks a lot for your advice! I will take this seriously into account. Thanks, Mike
Borrelli Dressing model is much slimmer than Brook which is a pup tent rather than a full-size tent.

 

[bryce330]

Originally Posted by pfr0g

Dont get an oversized neck it will look ridiculous imo. Paying 300+ retail for a shirt that does not fit would be insane. Just pay atention to the other measurments.

Truly your best bet sounds like custom since you have a larger chest and smaller neck.

I don't think going up half an inch in neck size would look "ridiculous," especially compared to a shirt that is so tight in the chest that he can't move his arms.

I would recommend that he try the next size up - the shirt is definitely too small. I usually wear a half size larger in Barba than I do in brands like Kiton or Zegna.

With regard to the question about Finamore, the fit is similar to Barba in my experience. I would recommend trying a Finamore shirt from Ian at shopthefinest.com, he has a large selection and I believe you can exchange the shirt for another if it doesn't fit.

 

[mr_prak]

Finamore is at least as tight as Barba (looking at the armhole and the chest). Perhaps there is a line that is cut more generously, otherwise.... MTM

 

[mr. magoo]

I concur that Barba tends to be tight fitting through the chest, although that trim fit doesn't extent to the lower quarters of the shirt as much (i.e., not tight around the tummy). I think that is their cut, and simply may not work if your chest is proportionately larger than the rest of your torso. Stop lifting so much. On the plus side, Barba has room for you to stuff yourself.

I have found Finamore to be trimmer throughout (especially the sleeves). I don't think you'll find much more room in a Finamore.

 

[jamesbond]

Man, people complaining that RTW is cut too slim? Never thought i would see the day. I have one Barba shirt in my normal size 15 (Direct from Italy) and its cut like a tent.

 

[zjpj83]

So which is it folks - are Barbas slim or not?

 

[jamesbond]

Originally Posted by zjpj83

So which is it folks - are Barbas slim or not?

Slim, if your used to Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren and other tent like structures.

Not, if your used to MTM.

 

[foto010101]

Here comes an important update: Today I started measuring my shirts. I measured the chest size, the shoulder width and the sleeve length exactly as shown in the tutorial on AAAC. To my astonishment I realized that the measurements of the Barba shirt, that was too tight around my chest and especially under my arm pits, had almost the same measurements as another shirt that fits me well. So what could be the difference? I concluded that it is the size and position of the arm holes of the shirt that makes the big difference! For your convenience I uploaded three pictures to show you the comparison between an Etro Milano 16 shirt and a Barba Napoli 16 shirt. Both shirts have roughly the same chest size, shoulder width (the Etro is slightly larger) and sleeve length! The Barba shirt is the one on top of the Etro shirt. My question is: which shirt brands make these very highly positioned and rather small arm holes? Or are certain lines of a shirt brand only constructed like this?

 

[bryce330]

Originally Posted by foto010101

My question is: which shirt brands make these very highly positioned and rather small arm holes? Or are certain lines of a shirt brand only constructed like this?


All Barba shirts have high armholes, it is a standard feature of the Neapolitan shirt style. You will also find it in other Neapolitan shirts like Finamore, Barba, Merolla & de l'Oro, and Borrelli, although Barba and Finamore are the most extreme examples.

I personally find it more comfortable and more attractive than shirts with a large/low armhole, although if you are very muscular in your back and shoulders it may be uncomfortable.

I would still recommend going up half a size in the Barba and see how that fits.

 

[foto010101]

Originally Posted by bryce330

All Barba shirts have high armholes, it is a standard feature of the Neapolitan shirt style. You will also find it in other Neapolitan shirts like Finamore, Barba, Merolla & de l'Oro, and Borrelli, although Barba and Finamore are the most extreme examples. I personally find it more comfortable and more attractive than shirts with a large/low armhole, although if you are very muscular in your back and shoulders it may be uncomfortable. I would still recommend going up half a size in the Barba and see how that fits.
Thanks for your answer. My neck measures 15.75". However, in order to leave a little bit of space I always look for 16" shirts. Don't you think that a 16.5" shirt would be a bit too much for my neck? Mike

 

[bryce330]

Originally Posted by foto010101

Thanks for your answer. My neck measures 15.75". However, in order to leave a little bit of space I always look for 16" shirts. Don't you think that a 16.5" shirt would be a bit too much for my neck?

Mike

Are you going to wear it with or without a tie? If you are wearing it with a tie, it might look bad, but if you are wearing it open-collar, it probably won't be noticeable, particularly if the shirt fits you well through the torso. It couldn't hurt to try.