Fit/critique on Target suit: Can I fix this via tailor? (New suit 3rd page)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gettoasty, Jul 20, 2011.

  1. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    So I want to follow up with a new suit that finally arrived, would love a second round of feedback. I love the fit tbh, but would like to know how I can tailor to make it 'perfect'. 4 general questions:

    1. The pants are a tad long, how short should I get them hemmed? Yeah those are the shoes I plan on wearing with atm, some Clark DB's.
    2. How about the jacket, how can I slim if down some more? What about the sleeve cuffs? How much shirt cuff should be showing if at all?
    3. How is the shoulder? Improvement or a step back?
    4. How should I coordinate color of tie with shirt e.g. with the one photoed -- I have a light yellowish tie with paisley blue print.

    Appreciate it,

    Pants cuffed:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Uncuffed:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

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    whatever is on your feet should not be on your feet with a suit.

    this is better. Could use a good bit of waist suppression, and maybe 3/4" off the sleeves. I like to show 1/4" to 1/2" of cuff.

    Pants need to come up a lot, but the real problem is that the shoes are a disaster.
     
  3. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    Yes, fully aware of the shoes. Thank you for the suggestion--I think I would prefer 1/4" sleeve to show.

    How to adjust pants, I know they are too long. Should they just touch the top of your shoe (what is the 'break'?) or just 1/2 over the footwear/stacking.

    Suggestions taken:
    3/4" off sleeve to shoe 1/4" cuff
    Waist suppression (slim down the body essentially)
    Hem the pants and possibly a small taper?


    This is my first suit fyi, coming from SW&D side.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2011
  4. Zoren

    Zoren Member

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    1.-What does SW&D and MC stand for?

    2.-Those boots are completely ruining your business-look. Invest in a pair of black oxfords. Shoes > Suits.
     
  5. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    SW&D = street wear & denim
    MC = Men's Clothing

    two totally different aesthetics/dress--each has its own forum base.

    1. Yeah I know the shoes are killing it, but aside from that, how can i make the suit itself even better.

    2. I agree on everything said, will be taking it to the tailor this week.

    Should the sleeves be tapered a bit too?

    3. I plan on tapering the pants a little, hem pants, take in the waist of the jacket, shorten the sleeves, and perhaps taper sleeve as well. Should be pretty good after that, will follow up..
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2011
  6. luftvier

    luftvier Senior member

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    MC = Men's clothing. SW&D = Streetwear & Denim.
     
  7. wj4

    wj4 Senior member

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    Just return the suit, dude. You're easily going to spend more than what you paid for it at the tailor. I'm no MC expert, and even I think the suit looks weird. The back is too full and the shoulders are too wide for you. The button stance is too high and the collar looks weird.

    I had some suits and blazers I bought from Banana Republic and J. Crew last 1-2 yrs because I thought they were 'good deals'. I spent a good amount of money tailoring them...having the width take in and shortening the sleeves, only to give them away because when the dust clears....they're still crappy stuff. Looking back, I wish I would've invested the money in one quality piece that I would still be wearing today.
     
  8. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    the new one too?:embar:
     
  9. wj4

    wj4 Senior member

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    ^I don't know what new one you're referring to.

    But probably not as I haven't bought any blazer or suit from either of the two stores in the last year.

    RE: tapering in pants. I went to a tailor to have my pants worked on. I had the rear and crotch taken in, and had the legs tapered. I paid $60 or 80 for everything, I forget exactly. This alone would be the price of your suit.

    I'm in the same boat as you, more or less. I rarely wear suits. I work in a firm that has a dress code of business casual. For now, I go to Jason at TaT for my suits.
     
  10. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

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    The break is basically the amount the crease in the pants wavers from being straight. Full break has the pants sitting on the shoes, which causes the break to be noticeable and substantial. This looks better with wider pant legs. I tend to go with about 1/4 break, which is basically the pants just touching the top of the shoes, but that also works better for narrow pants. Also, on narrow legs, I like to do a slant front to rear on the bottom of the pants. It gives you better coverage on the heel without an ugly break.


    I don't agree.

    What he's got here is an ok looking suit. I missed the major rippling on the back of the sleeves, but that may be cause the suit is wrinkled or you're standing funny. Also, you seem to be taking the pictures from quite low, which makes the button stance look quite high.

    I think he's looking at about $75 at the tailor. I know you're on a budget, but I'd start with waist suppression, and hemming the sleeves and pants
     
  11. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

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    definitely looks better... Clean up the back (ie get it taken in so you don't have too many ripples, and this will also give you some shape along the front side. I'd actually say given you're conservative (which is fine) with sleeve length, don't shorten them yet until you do the back since this may pull the sleeves up a little. IMO they're not way too long, probably just about right for how most non-sf people wear them, ie minimal showing cuff. do hem the pants with a bit of break (1 break in the pleat line down the front) - again I'd say keep everything proportional, so you can't have a super tight body with loose sleeves, so do a little tapering down the leg and give them a bit of a break so they match the sleeve's length style (ie fits well but isn't super trim).

    btw, is this suit wool? looks a bit crumpled, ie cotton or linen.

    PS, looks like your right arm is either longer or you have a dropped shoulder (pretty normal, i have it too).

    and you already knew about the shoes...
     
  12. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    Thanks for all the suggestions, looking at new shoes currently.

    Will definitely get the waist suppressed and pants hemmed plus tapered.

    I am not too keen what Quadcammer is suggesting regarding the break, but will see what the tailor suggests. But I definitely want to narrow the leg just a bit.

    Anyways, I hope there is a difference between the first suit on opened the thread with (Target) vs the new suit I received (Post #31), which is 98% wool/2% elastane from Uniqlo..

    Should I iron the suit before tailor?
     
  13. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

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    what part aren't you keen on?
     
  14. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    keen probably the wrong word choice, simply i don't understand probably because i cannot imagine what you mean i.e.

    Hard for me to see this on the pants looking well as I have not had any pants properly altered, so just inexperience. Remember I wear pants/jeans on the regular :embar:

    I like the idea of the 1/4" break as I do plan on slimming down my pants.

    I tried going out to find a decent pair of shoes to wear when I get my pants hemmed, but nothing! How hard will it be to properly hem w/ out wearing the proper shoes to give the tailor an idea? Nervous about that part.

    Also, after viewing some MC waywt, I am quite liking the look of cuffs as PG does it so well. Do cuffs look bad on tapered trousers?
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2011
  15. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

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    The slant is not obvious. Its usually about 1/2" longer in the back than the front. You don't notice it if you aren't looking, but it covers the heel of the shoe much more fully, which I prefer. But again, personal preference.

    I don't love cuffs with tighter legs, but some do. They do help the drape a bit as the cuffs tend to weigh down the leg.
     

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