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Fit Critique (I dont think anyone is using the other thread)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Grrtt780, Feb 10, 2012.

  1. Grrtt780

    Grrtt780 Member

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    Hey everybody this is my first post. I have been lurking and reading a long time and this website has been incredibly helpful however the information here has also put me in a precarious position.

    First things first, I am a recent college grad who just started a great job and need to start look professional. I wear a suit five days a week and right when I started I spent all of my money on a few Men's Warehouse suits. After spending some time on style forum I have figured out that was a mistake and have since been hitting thrift stores, ebay, etc to start building a better wardrobe. I now have several pairs of AE, Alden, and other nice shoes but had no luck with suits until now.

    I found 2 Ermenigildo Zegna suits at Goodwill and spent about $40 for the two. They are in my size but run a little big.

    All I want to know is do these fit well enough to send them to a tailor or should I just move on.

    My main concern is the shoulders, I am pretty sure everything else can be fixed.


    Thank you in advance for the help!

    PS: I like a slimmer fit, as all young men do and I want to have the pleats removed. Also, I want to buy some nice new stuff soon but I am a trainee for the first year or so I am making less than a quarter of what I will next year so for now I dont see myself buying new.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Original Intent

    Original Intent Active Member

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    I'm not pro, but shoulders appear ok from the front, though there is bunching in the back near your shoulder blades. Sleeve length seems fine, but get some waist suppression done and perhaps the back taken in.

    I'd have pants hemmed and tapered, and definitely take the pleats out.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2012
  3. Nikias

    Nikias Active Member

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    Location:
    London
    The trousers definitely need taking up, but that's not a problem (you probably already know this, but just in case).

    I don't think I have the experience really to comment on how successful other alterations would be, though I agree the jacket is a little on the big side. The excess material in the back can likely be taken in at the side or centre seams with little difficulty, but the arms etc. might be trickier.

    Hopefully someone with more knowledge will be along soon to put you right!
     
  4. Grrtt780

    Grrtt780 Member

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    Thanks for the help. My main concern is whether this is worth getting tailored. I think it is but where should I draw the line? I thought even up to $300 is worth it to have an E Zegna suit. It isn't top of the line I am sure. It doesnt have working cuffs or anything but it is fully canvassed and I was considering dropping a bit of money into both suits (working cuffs, pleats removed, etc) to make them my best suits. I figure two fully canvassed Zegna suits for $600 is a great deal.
     
  5. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    FTFY
     
  6. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    I have indicated areas of concern. As each of these areas costs money to remedy, you have to ask yourself if it wil be worth the cost.

    Lets look at the front view.....

    [​IMG]

    The jacket requires waist suppresion. This will give a more taiored and slim appearance.
    I will address the shoulder issues in a moment.
    Are the pants pleated? they appear as such.
    The pants need to be narrowed and taken up (Arrows A&B), closer to this if they are flat front and a tad wider if pleated....

    [​IMG]


    Now to the back and side views....

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Here is where we have our quandry...let's have a look at the numbered arrows.
    Area 1- the ripple effect under the collar needs to be corrected (and can easily be by your tailor).
    Area 2- The shoulders would have to be taken in which is a laborious task.
    Area 3- The arms..this seemingly excess of fabric which should correct itself when the shoulders are reworked.
    Area 4- The waist suppression needed to slim up the jacket.
    Area 5- This excess of fabric which needs to be corrected. There should be no visible excess of fabric anywhere. Clean lines is what you want.

    I am guessing a total of roughly $160 - $200 in alterations. Considering the suit is Zegna and if you really like it, then it may be worth the investment.
    You stated 2 of these suits...same size and fit exactly? Perhaps donated by the same gent.
    If this is the case, for under $400 you'll have 2 well tailored Zegna suits for one tenth the price of retail.
    Welcome to Styleforum.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The suit does not fit you and you should not let the brand sway you into liking this suit. The jacket and trouser need so much work and the kind of work that requires a skilled craftsman that it won't be worth it. Before thrifting and ebay purchases you want to go out and try on as many suits as you can, regardless of price, to learn which cut and size works with your body type and then shop for what you know will work. This suit is too far off, walk away.
     
  8. andrewgreg

    andrewgreg Senior member

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    Overall, the suit is one to one half size big. Saying if you are a 40 this suit maybe labeled 42.

    Man of Lint explains everything. IMO the styling of the suit looks old.d

    I think current label is Zegna for Neiman Marcus. The label says Zegna for Neiman Marcus. I never seen it in the past few years. I'm not sure, correct me if i'm wrong.
     
  9. Slippybee

    Slippybee Senior member

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    MoL, I'm not well informed enough to state whether this is sound advice or not but you're a thoroughly decent sort for taking the time to try and help.

    Top arrows. Sir!
     
  10. .Kurtz.

    .Kurtz. Senior member

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    +1 :fonz: (plus I agree with him)
     
  11. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Everything is way too big man

    Just try to sell it on ebay and get something better
     
  12. Octoberfile

    Octoberfile Senior member

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    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA
    Pleats, ventless three button jacket, high button stance.....that suit reflects a style that was quite common from 1994 until about 2007, which I considert to be the nightmare years for men's clothing (the mid-to-late 70's were even worse......disco era....argh!) . Suits like the one you are wearing were designed to look quite long and boxy. Regardless, the suit is just too big on you and looks quite dated. Donate that thing to the Salvation Army or to the Goodwill if you can't find a safe place to light it on fire and burn it. I'm aware that Zegna's get alot of praise aournd here, but if the suit looks bad and doesn't fit, who cares what brand it is.
     
  13. Grrtt780

    Grrtt780 Member

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    Thanks for the replies, especially Man of Lint. I may go for it I may not. I don't mind the cut and it would still be better than my Men's Warehouse suits that I have now I am just concerned as to whether it will ever look right. In any case thanks for all the help.
     
  14. reidrothchild

    reidrothchild Senior member

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    Despos is a well-renowned tailor, so you should listen to him. Some have suggested removing the pleats. Don't. That's a very expensive undertaking. If the suits are better in it their current state than your MW suits, just wear them as is without investing a bunch of money in tailoring. By the time you get done paying $200-300 per suit for all the tailoring that would need to be done, you could just get suits of equal or better quality off the B&S or at a discount retailer that actually fits.
     
  15. Grrtt780

    Grrtt780 Member

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    So if I do decide to looking in the buying forum what measurements do I need and which ones have to be perfect from the start?
     
  16. reidrothchild

    reidrothchild Senior member

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    For a suit or sportcoat, the most important measurements are you shoulder measurement and length. Most lengths are listed BOC or bottom of collar. Go try on some jackets and find one that comes down just far enough to cover the gluteal fold of your butt. Once you find the perfect length, measure from the bottom the jacket's collar to the bottom edge of the jacket. This is how you measure your shoulders:
    .
    You can have someone do this or (preferably) get your measurement from a tailor. In my opinion, these are the two most important measurements when shopping online because the shoulders and the length of the coat cannot easily be adjusted. Chest, waist, sleeve, and sleeve length can all be changed relatively inexpensively.
     
  17. facet

    facet Senior member

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    You need to know your proper size; so your chest measurement and height. Otherwise, it's really a matter of trying different suits on, as Despos as said. For myself, after a while of owning different suits, I have a pretty good idea of dimensions such as shoulder width and jacket/sleeve length which work best for me. It's tough to know that stuff unless you actually have several suits that you can sit down and measure; and that still doesn't account for the cut of the suit anyways. So it just goes full circle back to simply trying things out.

    edit: oops, didn't see reidrothchild's post
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2012
  18. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    The areas I indicated previously are obvious ones that anyone would see. One can understand the excitement of procuring a quality and expensive item. I felt the OP's excitement. This is why I did the arrows on his photos. Now that the OP has had time to think and reconsider, it becomes evident that an alterations endeavour on these suits would prove a waste of money.
    Therefore I fully support the sound advice that Despos has given. Chalk it down to experience and let these suits go or sell them or trade them with another member here on SF. Something more appropriate will come.



    +1 and well said Despos.
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2012

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