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Fit Check - New Bespoke Suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by monkeytamer, Aug 13, 2016.

  1. monkeytamer

    monkeytamer Member

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    Hi All,

    Thanks for taking the time to look.

    Below are pictures of my first Bespoke Full Canvas Suit. There were 2 fittings.

    Fabric - S120 Wool Navy Blue. Fabric Sourced from Yorkshirefabric.com

    Fabric + CMT was 355 USD

    For my next suit I would like for the legs on the trousers to be less baggy. For the Jacket I will raise the notches by about a centimeter. Maybe shorten the jacket by a centimeter.
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    I would appreciate any feedback and I apologize for the poor photography.
     
  2. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    That's pretty terrible for a bespoke suit.
     
  3. monkeytamer

    monkeytamer Member

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    Thanks for the honest feedback.

    Could you give me something specific to start with correcting?
     
  4. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Gosh, where to start? Everything is overall too small. The jacket is too short, the shoulders too narrow, the chest/waist/sleeves/and back are too tight. The trousers are much too tight. I would not go back tot his tailor for another suit.
     
  5. joorinainen

    joorinainen Member

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    Mar 12, 2016
    Where did you have this suit made? Thailand? Pictures are dark and it's hard to tell but the trousers seems to be the best fitting part of the outfit. I would say that the jacket is too tight everywhere and it doesn't follow your body naturally. Fabric is creasing and pulling everywhere. Jacket is also a bit too short. It doesn't cover your ass completely.
     
  6. aj805

    aj805 Well-Known Member

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    May 25, 2016
    It's difficult to see the finer points because the pictures are of bad quality. I agree with CM, it is too small everywhere--and given that it is consistently so, I'm sure the intent was to make the whole thing "modern fashion" instead of "classic menswear". If the latter is what you're going for, start over with a different tailor.
     
  7. monkeytamer

    monkeytamer Member

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    I see. I actually had the tailor go with a more fitted look in the waist & chest and I had him shorten the sleeves...

    How would I get the shoulders wider? At the moment the padding is at the exact end of my shoulder so any wider and I'm going to have wings...

    Besides what you mentioned above, is there something to work on with the arm holes? Also lower back suppression?
     
  8. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    I'm being perfectly honest with you when I say that you are better off not adjusting any of this, and simply starting over with a different tailor. It is so bad that using this suit as a starting point for anything else will probably result in an expensive and frustrating process that will yield sub standard results. Start over with a different tailor.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2016
  9. monkeytamer

    monkeytamer Member

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    Thanks guys for the feedback.

    I had it made in Bur Dubai, Dubai.

    As I actually had control over the entire process I'm going to assume it was my mistake with what I instructed the tailor to do. I provided photos as well.

    So going on what you guys have put in, the entire jacket should be larger. IE broader jacket, looser sleeves, longer skirt.
     
  10. monkeytamer

    monkeytamer Member

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    Cm - duly noted.

    I'm open to changing tailors.

    With that being said, nearly all tailors here are Indian and do not provide any style or sartorial advice. There is no house style here. When going to a new tailor, besides being armed with photos of what I would like to emulate how could I get them to produce something reasonable?
     
  11. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Whether you had any input in the process or not, the tailor should have seen the problems that were about to happen with it. He should have steered you in the right direction and not let you make these mistakes. A good one will be like a good barber, who will adjust to your personal style but still not let you make yourself look like a fool.

    Btw, I lived in Dubai. I wouldn't trust 99 out 0f 100 tailors there. Especially not to make a bespoke suit.
    I simply wouldn't do it there. Dubai is a desert of men's style. Buy off the rack if you can find a decent fit, failing that travel elsewhere for bespoke clothing, failing that try Kent Wang.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2016
  12. monkeytamer

    monkeytamer Member

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    I understand. Thanks for the tip.

    As you wouldn't trust nearly my tailor here is there any exceptions? I have heard good things about The Whistle and Flute but have never tried them.
     
  13. monkeytamer

    monkeytamer Member

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    Damn, I didn't know the situation was that bad lo
     
  14. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    I'm not sure about them. I believe there are one or two well regarded British expats operating tailor shops there. I can't remember who they are, but that would be the route I would go.
     
  15. aj805

    aj805 Well-Known Member

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    Personally I would not be going bespoke route unless a) I was already confident with my experience in suiting, or b) I had enough cash on hand to just put my faith in a reputable tailor, wherever I had to travel to get fitted.

    It's easier and less risky to just buy OTR and get alterations.
     
  16. monkeytamer

    monkeytamer Member

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    Thanks AJ805 for the advice.

    In an ideal world where I would have the financial capacity to travel for fittings I would definitely do that.

    Since it's actually cheaper for me to source my own fabric and visit the tailor then it is to get something OTR and I can make sure that it's at least full canvas then fused what would be the advantage of going OTR? At the quality of construction level the tailor made suit is certainly better, so therefore the only advantage is fit?
     
  17. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Boston
    Honestly, really good tailors need little to no direction in terms of fit so I don't think you need to be an expert yourself if you want to go bespoke and have the money.

    A good tailor already knows how to make the thing fit you really well so they're mostly going to need to know the finer details - wide lapels vs narrow, patch pocket vs flap, etc.

    What will matter, though, is the standard house style they use. You don't want to have some Italian tailor make you a British cut suit when his house style is Italian cut, and so on ...
     
  18. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Great fabric and full canvas construction mean nothing if the fit is bad. Think fit, first.
     
  19. monkeytamer

    monkeytamer Member

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    TM79 - Thanks for the reply.

    Until now I have not been able to establish if any tailor here has a house style.... It seems that whenever I ask if they have a house style they just say "what ever you want boss"
     
  20. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Run...
     

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