Fit check and styling advice for this grey tweed jacket please?

[Mr Tickle]

Just received this - the fit feels good to me but as ever I'm interested in the advice of you guys. Sleeves need shortening I know. My alterations lady is reopening for business next week at last and I've already got a pile of things to take her so one more makes no odds.

Also how can I wear it casually? I've taken a few pictures in what I would consider business and informal modes - I think the business is easy enough to get right (smart shirt and tie) but are the casual (no tie) outfits decent looking?

 

[bicycleradical]

I think the jacket fits pretty well overall however you have to choose what accompanies the grey jacket carefully to make it work.

I think for the non-business look, a shirt without a pattern would work better. The jacket has its texture and the two combined feel a bit distracting.

 

[dieworkwear]

I don't think the jacket looks good on you and you should find a new cut.

The quarters are too closed and the silhouette is a bit boxy. In one of the photos, the collar stands away from your neck.

 

[Mr Tickle]

I don't think the jacket looks good on you and you should find a new cut.

The quarters are too closed and the silhouette is a bit boxy. In one of the photos, the collar stands away from your neck.

Thanks - are there any other "cuts" I can consider? I am not actually totally sure what you mean by cut.
To be honest not entirely sure what "the quarters are too closed" means ... Could you elaborate a little?

 

[dieworkwear]

Thanks - are there any other "cuts" I can consider? I am not actually totally sure what you mean by cut.
To be honest not entirely sure what "the quarters are too closed" means ... Could you elaborate a little?

The front of the jacket below the buttoning point overlaps too much. Somewhat of a styling preference, but I don't think the cut looks good on you.

You can read more about it here:

How to Understand Silhouettes (Pt. One)

One of the great things that has come out of menswear in the last twenty years is a better appreciation...

putthison.com

Quarter for your Thoughts

One of the most important areas to pay attention to when examining the fit of a suit or sport coat...

putthison.com

Can I ask if you're purchasing these things online at discount houses or eBay? I feel like you might be better served if you go to a good store and just try on some clothes. If you're just starting to build a wardrobe, there's an attraction to trying to find "deals" online, but this can be a time sink, and few men build good wardrobes this way. I think it would be better to find a good store in your area or online, and then try higher-end goods. For tailoring, especially, small issues can really affect the cut and silhouette.

 

[Mr Tickle]

The front of the jacket below the buttoning point overlaps too much. Somewhat of a styling preference, but I don't think the cut looks good on you.

You can read more about it here:

How to Understand Silhouettes (Pt. One)

One of the great things that has come out of menswear in the last twenty years is a better appreciation...

putthison.com

Quarter for your Thoughts

One of the most important areas to pay attention to when examining the fit of a suit or sport coat...

putthison.com

Can I ask if you're purchasing these things online at discount houses or eBay? I feel like you might be better served if you go to a good store and just try on some clothes. If you're just starting to build a wardrobe, there's an attraction to trying to find "deals" online, but this can be a time sink, and few men build good wardrobes this way. I think it would be better to find a good store in your area or online, and then try higher-end goods. For tailoring, especially, small issues can really affect the cut and silhouette.

I do have an eye for a bargain I admit. And there are no stores open where I am at the moment (and haven't really been any for the last year!)
The jacket is from Spier and Mackay - I do really like the texture of the cloth and I can't return it ... Well I could, but I'd have to write off the exorbitant import tax I paid to get it across the Atlantic. Is there anything I can suggest to my alterations tailor that would get it more up-to-scratch in your opinion? I have a feeling I have a body shape that just isn't suited to the majority of off-the-rack stuff (I'm slightly below average height and very slightly average breadth). So getting stuff fitted to me is probably my best option right?

 

[Emmanuel1]

The jacket is not worth altering because it is the wrong size. When making a purchase pay close attention that the shoulders of the jacket are well filled by your shoulders. The jacket in the photo is very loose. The seam hangs down past your shoulders. If you have the shoulders correct usually the chest is close. You can tailor other parts down if neccessary once you have the right fit in the shoulders.

 

[dieworkwear]

I do have an eye for a bargain I admit. And there are no stores open where I am at the moment (and haven't really been any for the last year!)
The jacket is from Spier and Mackay - I do really like the texture of the cloth and I can't return it ... Well I could, but I'd have to write off the exorbitant import tax I paid to get it across the Atlantic. Is there anything I can suggest to my alterations tailor that would get it more up-to-scratch in your opinion? I have a feeling I have a body shape that just isn't suited to the majority of off-the-rack stuff (I'm slightly below average height and very slightly average breadth). So getting stuff fitted to me is probably my best option right?

No, I don't think that jacket can be altered in a way that would make it look good. I don't think the cut works for you. I would not bother trying to buy the next size down, as the length already looks too short on you.

Unfortunately, I don't know the UK market that well, so I don't know what to recommend.

 

[Mr Tickle]

No, I don't think that jacket can be altered in a way that would make it look good. I don't think the cut works for you. I would not bother trying to buy the next size down, as the length already looks too short on you.

Unfortunately, I don't know the UK market that well, so I don't know what to recommend.

Yes, I'm sure the next size down would be much too small. Oh well I guess this brand is just not for me.

 

[TheIronDandy]

I have a feeling I have a body shape that just isn't suited to the majority of off-the-rack stuff (I'm slightly below average height and very slightly average breadth). So getting stuff fitted to me is probably my best option right?

If you're in the UK (DWW referred to the UK market, so I'm making assumptions), and want fitted clothes, there's Cad&the Dandy, who offer full bespoke at a quarter of the prices most other tailors on Saville Row charge - patterns are made and fabric is cut in London, but the bulk of the tailoring is done in India, with final alterations done in London - it's still not cheap, but fit is paramount in classic menswear and you're better off getting one jacket with a proper fit than 5 that fit you so-so. I made the mistake of chasing bargains and nice fabrics at the expense of fit and cut when starting out, and I deeply regret it. I'm a long term customer from their Swedish sister-company and I've been extremely happy with the results.

I don't know about MtM in the UK, in Sweden there's blugiallo.se who offer a very good MTM service. Their prices are slightly higher than S&Ms MtO service, but that includes tailoring alterations, and they're pretty flexible with making special adjustments if you talk to them. They offer online consultations, but I haven't used that so I can't tell you how good they are, but the face-2-face interactions I've had with them have been very good. It's a small outfit ran by people who genuinely like clothes, and I can definitely recommend them.

Obviously, getting stuff made for you will always be more expensive, but seeing as how you're posting a lot of pictures asking about fit, and seem to have a body shape that doesn't map well to standard sizes, it could be worth looking into. The feeling of putting on a jacket that actually complements your build is a world of difference from standard sizes.

If you do decide MtM or bespoke is the way to go, and want some pointers on what to think about (aka mistakes I did when starting out), let me know. Not the most experienced dresser on SF by any means, but I do have the advantage of still remembering the confusion of making my first order.

 

[ChasingStyle]

What's your price range? there are a bunch of options here in the UK, depending on your budget.

 

[Mr Tickle]

What's your price range? there are a bunch of options here in the UK, depending on your budget.

For r2w probably wouldn't want to spend more than about £200 on a jacket. I mean, I have spent considerably more than that - the S&M one here was 400 odd once you factor in shipping and import duty. But I'd much rather spend less, of course. £400 (not far off a week's salary for a lot of people) for a r2w jacket already seems somewhat vulgar if you ask me!
But I do realise you get what you pay for.

 

[Stylewords]

I can't quite see in the photos, is that the Spier grey donegal jacket?

I don't think it's quite as bad as some are making out. Some recommendations to take or leave:

1. Think about what shape of jacket suits you better. Many modern brands, such as Spier, have no shoulder padding. That looks ok on some people, but many others benefit from a little more structure.
2. Find a very good alterations person. They can really turn an average jacket into one that fits pretty well. On this Spier jacket, you'd need to shorten the sleeves and you could also narrow the sleeves, see if the shoulders can be improved, perhaps put a small pad under the right (or both) shoulder(s) (like most people your right shoulder seems a little more dropped), and maybe more. When you see how these changes affect a jacket, it will give you a better idea for the future.
3. Your colour combination is a little dull. Try for more contrast in colours (more difficlut with the mid-grey jacket you have there).
4. Get better collars on your shirts (that go under the lapel of the jacket...)
5. Shorten those trousers a lot.

 

[dieworkwear]

I can't quite see in the photos, is that the Spier grey donegal jacket?

I don't think it's quite as bad as some are making out. Some recommendations to take or leave:

1. Think about what shape of jacket suits you better. Many modern brands, such as Spier, have no shoulder padding. That looks ok on some people, but many others benefit from a little more structure.
2. Find a very good alterations person. They can really turn an average jacket into one that fits pretty well. On this Spier jacket, you'd need to shorten the sleeves and you could also narrow the sleeves, see if the shoulders can be improved, perhaps put a small pad under the right (or both) shoulder(s) (like most people your right shoulder seems a little more dropped), and maybe more. When you see how these changes affect a jacket, it will give you a better idea for the future.
3. Your colour combination is a little dull. Try for more contrast in colours (more difficlut with the mid-grey jacket you have there).
4. Get better collars on your shirts (that go under the lapel of the jacket...)
5. Shorten those trousers a lot.

Personally don't recommend putting alterations money into a jacket where you get a collar gap from putting your hands in your pocket.

 

[Mr Tickle]

I can't quite see in the photos, is that the Spier grey donegal jacket?

I don't think it's quite as bad as some are making out. Some recommendations to take or leave:

1. Think about what shape of jacket suits you better. Many modern brands, such as Spier, have no shoulder padding. That looks ok on some people, but many others benefit from a little more structure.
2. Find a very good alterations person. They can really turn an average jacket into one that fits pretty well. On this Spier jacket, you'd need to shorten the sleeves and you could also narrow the sleeves, see if the shoulders can be improved, perhaps put a small pad under the right (or both) shoulder(s) (like most people your right shoulder seems a little more dropped), and maybe more. When you see how these changes affect a jacket, it will give you a better idea for the future.
3. Your colour combination is a little dull. Try for more contrast in colours (more difficlut with the mid-grey jacket you have there).
4. Get better collars on your shirts (that go under the lapel of the jacket...)
5. Shorten those trousers a lot.

Thanks, yes it is the grey Donegal. I do have a good alterations tailor and the trousers will be the first thing she will be altering when she reopens on Monday following lockdown.
I will be asking her opinion on the jacket too ... I spent a sizable amount of money on it that I won't recoup from selling it so I want to at least try and make it work. It feels great to wear. And my wife says it looks very dapper on me . But she is not a menswear expert so why should I care about her opinion
Don't get me wrong I am very appreciative of the opinions of everyone here but at the end of the day but at the end of the day I am confident enough in myself that I won't dislike something that I like, on the grounds of someone else having a different opinion. I've always been someone that tends to get complimented on how I look and dress, and I'm old enough to know that this is because I have confidence and an element of being very comfortable in my own skin no matter what I am wearing.
I may never get to the level of posting pictures in the WAYWT threads or getting photographed for style blogs, but that's not my main objective in life. @dieworkwear has some very insightful ideas he has passed on to me on thinking about style being like a language and thinking about what I am trying to communicate with it, and I've got it down to:

1. I am a trustworthy and professional person, and a good leader.

2. I am a person who takes an interest in my clothes and the way I look

3. But not too much interest ... I am not vain and as a family man as well as someone in a position of authority and leadership, I don't want people thinking I spend all my time trying on clothes and photographing myself in them. I have more important things to concern myself with.

Sounds big headed but remember that's what I want to communicate, rather than what I actually believe! It's mostly true - but I do spend a lot of time trying on clothes and photographing myself in them ... At the moment at least... I blame lockdown for this.