Fit and silhouette feedback

[JIMIG]

Hi guys.

I already posted some of these in the fit thread on the main forum, but didn’t get a response. Therefore I am trying in a separate thread.

I am trying to learn fit and proportion, and what looks good on me. Over the last year I have gravitated towards fuller cuts and longer jackets. The items shown here are representative of what I would typically buy at this point. SC are Spier, trousers Natalino.

Jacket buttoning point and trouser waistband is basically at my bellybutton. Jacket covers my rear with an additional cm or two.

I have added several pictures. Some in different heights as I know mirror selfie’s can distort proportions. There are two jackets (green and navy) and two trousers, but their in the same size.

My specific questions are:
1) is the overall silhouette fine? If not, what changes would you suggest?
2) is the jacket the correct length?
3) what do you think is causing the fabric bunching in the back of my thighs? Is it due to excess fabric, or a rise/cut issue? There is a bit of a wedgie as well, but I am not sure if these issues are related

Anything else I should consider?

Thanks a lot! This forum has been a great source of

 

[breakaway01]

In general the jacket silhouette looks pretty good to me. Length of the last jacket (with the tan trousers) is better than the first, which is a bit short to my eye. Could also perhaps have a little more width in the shoulders and chest but that’s more of a stylistic decision rather than a fit problem. There is some rumpling along the tops of your shoulders—I know most people seem to want less or no structure in the shoulders but I think many people would benefit from a little more structure than this.
As far as the trousers go, not a tailor but you might need a little less back rise—if you pin out a cm across the back of the trousers just below the waistband, does the fit improve? May need something done to reshape the seat curve as well but I’d ask an alterations tailor.

 

[JIMIG]

Thanks a lot! I have been favoring soft shoulders for a while, but will try on some RTWs with slight padding when stores open up.

I tried pinching the trousers as you suggested, and it definitely seem to improve the fit. I will ask my alteration tailor if she can make it work.

 

[dieworkwear]

The first jacket also looks a bit short to me, and the last jacket is much better.

I like the overall silhouette of the last outfit, the one involving what looks to be a navy sport coat with tan trousers.

 

[breakaway01]

Thanks a lot! I have been favoring soft shoulders for a while, but will try on some RTWs with slight padding when stores open up.

I tried pinching the trousers as you suggested, and it definitely seem to improve the fit. I will ask my alteration tailor if she can make it work.

Great. Just be aware that structure does not necessarily equate to padding. Other materials like canvas can be used to add structure.

 

[JIMIG]

The first jacket also looks a bit short to me, and the last jacket is much better.

I like the overall silhouette of the last outfit, the one involving what looks to be a navy sport coat with tan trousers.

Thanks. I will opt for the longer jacket length going forward.

 

[schraiber]

I like the second fit (navy jacket, tan trousers) a lot. Is the green jacket a different size/fit? I agree with everyone that the second jacket looks better, but it sounds like they're meant to be the same size?

 

[JIMIG]

Thanks. Yes, they are the same size, but the back length are on the opposite sides of the tolerance margins. So the green is a tad shorter

 

[schraiber]

Thanks. Yes, they are the same size, but the back length are on the opposite sides of the tolerance margins. So the green is a tad shorter

Wow that's crazy! A good reminder of how variable OTR garments can be

 

[JIMIG]

To be fair, I think the camera angles accentuates the difference. There is just a 1-1.5 cm difference if my measurements are correct.

I was actually sort of concerned that the navy was too long, but I will now keep aiming for that length.

 

[clee1982]

like it overall, first jacket seem a bit short. Are you ever going to wear those pants by itself, definitely works by itself, otherwise the first grey one seems a bit too much stylized high rise to me (but if you like it probably fine too)

 

[JIMIG]

like it overall, first jacket seem a bit short. Are you ever going to wear those pants by itself, definitely works by itself, otherwise the first grey one seems a bit too much stylized high rise to me (but if you like it probably fine too)

Yeah I agree. I wear them with jackets.