• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • We would like to welcome House of Huntington as an official Affiliate Vendor. Shop past season Drake's, Nigel Cabourn, Private White V.C. and other menswear luxury brands at exceptional prices below retail. Please visit the Houise of Huntington thread and welcome them to the forum.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Fit advice on S&M sportcoat

jaaz16

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2020
Messages
724
Reaction score
1,667
Looking for some advice on whether the issues with this sportcoat are fixable. To my eye, the length is good overall and the shoulders look good from the front, but the waist could be let out a touch and the arms could be taken up a touch. The back is where things get messy. Needs to be let out and there’s some collar roll that needs to be fixed (an issue I’ve consistently had).

Am I missing anything? And is this the right OTR size that can be cleaned up with tailoring?

656496B1-532E-473C-9126-082C7C1C3565.jpeg 94CC4690-371B-4742-AE97-D6333F9E3201.jpeg 1BE46582-A03C-416C-B469-D24A2E78DAED.jpeg
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
27,320
Reaction score
69,979
I agree with your assessment.

These seem like easy fixes at the tailor, but curious, have you tried the next size up? Does the next size up fit better?
 
Last edited:

breakaway01

Distinguished Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2013
Messages
4,333
Reaction score
4,560
I don’t think the upper back is a collar roll. Those lines are due to tension between your shoulder blades and that is not an easy fix. I would try sizing up.
 
Last edited:

jaaz16

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2020
Messages
724
Reaction score
1,667
Thanks @dieworkwear & @breakaway01. For context: My chest measure 38" almost exactly and I'm a hair under 5'9", but as you can see, I think I have slightly broad shoulders/back. The pictures are of a 38R contemporary in the 3-roll-2 Neopolitan cut. The shoulder seams hit close to exactly where my shoulders are. The front photo looked really promising!

The last time I bought sportcoats, circa 2015, I ended up with 40S because the back and chest felt more comfortable off the rack, and I then took the waist in a bunch. 40R felt too long at the time--but that was perhaps a stylistic assessment. Looking at my 40S that I have now, they all feel too short (don't cover my butt) and on some, the shoulders extend beyond my natural shoulder. The button stance on the shorts also seem wonky to me, but that may be brand-specific (my existing SCs are Brooks).

Based on your feedback, I think the right move might be to try a 40 (S&M has 40R in Slim and Contemporary, but no 40S currently in stock) and take to the tailor to get an in-person assessment. I think the 40 is about ~.2-.4 inches more in the length and shoulder than the 38 I tried on here.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
27,320
Reaction score
69,979
Thanks @dieworkwear & @breakaway01. For context: My chest measure 38" almost exactly and I'm a hair under 5'9", but as you can see, I think I have slightly broad shoulders/back. The pictures are of a 38R contemporary in the 3-roll-2 Neopolitan cut. The shoulder seams hit close to exactly where my shoulders are. The front photo looked really promising!

The last time I bought sportcoats, circa 2015, I ended up with 40S because the back and chest felt more comfortable off the rack, and I then took the waist in a bunch. 40R felt too long at the time--but that was perhaps a stylistic assessment. Looking at my 40S that I have now, they all feel too short (don't cover my butt) and on some, the shoulders extend beyond my natural shoulder. The button stance on the shorts also seem wonky to me, but that may be brand-specific (my existing SCs are Brooks).

Based on your feedback, I think the right move might be to try a 40 (S&M has 40R in Slim and Contemporary, but no 40S currently in stock) and take to the tailor to get an in-person assessment. I think the 40 is about ~.2-.4 inches more in the length and shoulder than the 38 I tried on here.

I've always felt that the shoulder seam can sit off the shoulder bone -- and often, looks better for it. A slight extension helps broaden the shoulder line and make the wais look smaller by comparison. If you were to let out the coat at the waist, you'd lose some of that hourglass shaping. But if you extend the shoulders, you can let out the waist without changing proportions (on a size 40, you might not even need to do so since the waist will be graded up for proportions).
 

jaaz16

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2020
Messages
724
Reaction score
1,667
Thanks for that. I think I'll give the 40 a go and see how things look. Return shipping for S&M is pretty fair.
 

Jazzdrummer

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
8
Reaction score
8
I agree with the other comments. While the shoulders appear good from the front, the material is obviously stretched across the back. Also there’s the characteristic “X” across the front torso when the jacket is buttoned indicating a bit too tight. This is also seen with the tight puckering at the waist from behind. Sizing up should help.
 

Jazzdrummer

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2020
Messages
8
Reaction score
8
Also, when trying on jackets and suits, don’t forget to see how it feels and looks when seated.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 55 35.3%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 61 39.1%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 17 10.9%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 27 17.3%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 28 17.9%

Forum statistics

Threads
505,206
Messages
10,579,285
Members
223,891
Latest member
tuga1
Top