First WW Chan Questions: Smith's Fabrics, Trousers

[judgelance]

Some questions after meeting Patrick Chu for the first time in SF.

1. Fabric: I chose a mid gray from Smith's Blue Riband 10/11 oz book. This was a close call over a similar color from the Smith's Excel 9 oz book, but I went for the more distinctive, drier finish of the Blue Riband. I run fairly warm, so will the tight weave and heavier weight of the Blue Riband be too warm for (nearly) year-round wear in the Bay Area?

2. Trousers: I initially chose flat fronts, but am thinking that a single forward pleat may be more appropriate for a more traditional and formal appearance.
Also, does anyone know Chan's defaults for trouser pockets? I am interested in (not sure of the terminology) a top pocket where the opening is in line with the outseam, like this:



3. Basted fitting: I am thinking strongly of requesting a first fitting, likely a basted fitting unless respondents think a forward fitting would be better. I am afraid that doing both would be difficult because that would mean waiting about a year to receive the finished garment.

Many thanks for any assistance.

 

[GBR]



Some questions after meeting Patrick Chu for the first time in SF.
1. Fabric: I chose a mid gray from Smith's Blue Riband 10/11 oz book. This was a close call over a similar color from the Smith's Excel 9 oz book, but I went for the more distinctive, drier finish of the Blue Riband. I run fairly warm, so will the tight weave and heavier weight of the Blue Riband be too warm for (nearly) year-round wear in the Bay Area?
2. Trousers: I initially chose flat fronts, but am thinking that a single forward pleat may be more appropriate for a more traditional and formal appearance.
Also, does anyone know Chan's defaults for trouser pockets? I am interested in (not sure of the terminology) a top pocket where the opening is in line with the outseam, like this:

3. Basted fitting: I am thinking strongly of requesting a first fitting, likely a basted fitting unless respondents think a forward fitting would be better. I am afraid that doing both would be difficult because that would mean waiting about a year to receive the finished garment.
Many thanks for any assistance.

[COLOR=FF00AA]a single forward pleat may be more appropriate for a more traditional and formal appearance.[/COLOR]

Pleated trousers do have those attributes.

[COLOR=FF00AA]Also, does anyone know Chan's defaults for trouser pockets? I am interested in (not sure of the terminology) a top pocket where the opening is in line with the out-seam, like this:[/COLOR]

Your photograph does not illustrate anything of this ilk. Chan trousers normally have a 'hidden' fob pocket at the waist band.

[COLOR=FF00AA]
3. Basted fitting: I am thinking strongly of requesting a first fitting,[/COLOR]

Unless you can go to HK then that is the consequence - your choice although Chan has been through finishing for many years. Maybe let them finish and go back if problems.

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]



[COLOR=FF00AA]Also, does anyone know Chan's defaults for trouser pockets? I am interested in (not sure of the terminology) a top pocket where the opening is in line with the out-seam, like this:[/COLOR]
Your photograph does not illustrate anything of this ilk. Chan trousers normally have a 'hidden' fob pocket at the waist band.

Yes it does, the trousers in the photo clearly have on-seam side pockets, though from his wording it's not entirely obvious that's what the OP meant.

 

[GBR]



Yes it does, the trousers in the photo clearly have on-seam side pockets, though from his wording it's not entirely obvious that's what the OP meant.

The OP referred to a "top pocket" which one would take to mean a fob pocket which is generally the uppermost pocket in a pair of trousers, placed either immediately below the waistband or in Chan's case (and many other Asian tailors and increasingly European ones) 'hidden' at the top of the waistband.

Side pockets are namely that - at the side.

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]



The OP referred to a "top pocket" which one would take to mean a fob pocket which is generally the uppermost pocket in a pair of trousers, placed either immediately below the waistband or in Chan's case (and many other Asian tailors and increasingly European ones) 'hidden' at the top of the waistband.
Side pockets are namely that - at the side.

Yes, but he also said that the opening is 'in line with the out-seam'. And where is the outseam? Down the side. Either he incorrectly used 'top pocket' instead of 'side pocket', or he incorrectly used 'out-seam' instead of 'waistband seam'; obviously we can't be sure without his confirmation but I think the former is more likely, considering on-seam side-pockets are clearly visible in the image whereas a hidden waist-band pocket obviously would not be.

 

[TheTukker]



Yes, but he also said that the opening is 'in line with the out-seam'. And where is the outseam? Down the side. Either he incorrectly used 'top pocket' instead of 'side pocket', or he incorrectly used 'out-seam' instead of 'waistband seam'; obviously we can't be sure without his confirmation but I think the former is more likely, considering on-seam side-pockets are clearly visible in the image whereas a hidden waist-band pocket obviously would not be.

I also thought this was what the OP meant and if so, unless the OP specified it, I don't think you'll be getting this as it's not their default.

 

[GBR]



I also thought this was what the OP meant and if so, unless the OP specified it, I don't think you'll be getting this as it's not their default.

If the OP is this confused, I hate to think what else he might be getting!

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]

I am surprised that he wasn't asked what type of pockets he wanted.

 

[imatlas]

OP: I believe the default choice for side pockets is slanted opening at about a 20 degree angle (guesstimating). If you want vertical pockets, let Patrick know.

 

[Parker]

I don't think they have a default pocket style. You can request whatever you'd like. I would caution that on-seam pockets can sometimes produce teh "elephant ears" effect where they flare out at the hips. Not really a problem if you keep your jacket on, but something to consider.

You can request a fitting, but you'll have to wait until they come back to your city and they charge an extra shipping fee.

 

[F. Corbera]

On seam pockets that lie flat are about the easiest test of careful (bespoke) trouser making.

 

[emc894]

I would strongly recommend you get at least one fitting. I bought two suits without fittings and both are decent, not great.

I'd also caution you against the heavy fabrics that are popular on the internet. With today's technology, heavier fabric's drape isn't as much as an issue as it was in the past and you may be hot and uncomfortable a lot, especially is you run hot.

 

[JLibourel]

I'd hardly call a 10/11-ounce fabric such as the OP chose a "heavy" fabric!

In my experience, a basted fitting probably isn't worth the extra time, expense and bother.