First solid navy suit

[tayyabp]

Hey all,


I'm looking to spend about $800 CAD for my first solid navy suit. I want it to have unstructured shoulders and patch pockets so as to double as a navy blazer as well. And I'd like to have 4'' notch lapels in the Neopolitan style.

I'm thinking of either going with a made to measure hopsack suit from Spier and Mackay in their Neopolitan cut, or the ready to wear blue birdseye suit offered by Pini Parma.

Pini Parma would be slightly more expensive but not by a lot.

Which one do you guys think I should go for and why? And are there any other options for what I'm looking for?

 

[FlyingHorker]

Hopsack suit sounds nice, but not for a first suit.

Hopsack is an open weave so the trousers will bag out.

 

[tayyabp]

So go for the birdseye then?

 

[norMD]

There are several hopsacks that can be made into a suit.

Spier and Mackay sell hopsack suit separates every season. If you are based in Canada i would go the S&M route. Support local stores and you can progress to instore MTM.

If you are buying MTO you could also look at a navy fresco or VBC 4-ply, but hopsack will also be nice.

Search for styleforum blazer suit and you will find a long thread regarding navy hopsack blaxersuits.

 

[tayyabp]

There are several hopsacks that can be made into a suit.

Spier and Mackay sell hopsack suit separates every season. If you are based in Canada i would go the S&M route. Support local stores and you can progress to instore MTM.

If you are buying MTO you could also look at a navy fresco or VBC 4-ply, but hopsack will also be nice.

Search for styleforum blazer suit and you will find a long thread regarding navy hopsack blaxersuits.

What do you recommend?

 

[norMD]

Are you able to visit Spier and Mackay in store?

 

[tayyabp]

Are you able to visit Spier and Mackay in store?

I already have and have been fitted by them. I own a bunch of sport coats from them. Really enjoy their work. Would Pini Parma be significantly higher in quality though?

 

[norMD]

I dont own any pini parma items so cant comment on quality.

Regarding fabrics i would head to the S&M store and look at fabric swatches.

 

[Sellidor]

Pini Parma certainly offers quality stuff (I've visited their store many times). Their jackets are half-canvassed and made in Italy. I haven't seen any S&M products so I can't compare.

In your case, I'd suggest sticking to S&M. You already know that their cut fits you, so there's less risk. Plus it sounds like you can do in-person MTM for the same price as the RTW from Pini Parma.

A few other things to be aware of with Pini Parma: their jackets are quite short (too short for me at 182 cm). I think they're significantly shorter than the Neapolitan cut at S&M (judging from the size chart). The buttoning stance is also rather high (which is unfortunate from a brand that wants to be sartorial). Living in Europe, I tend to prefer Suit Supply because it's cheaper than Pini Parma and I haven't noticed a big difference in quality.

 

[tayyabp]

Pini Parma certainly offers quality stuff (I've visited their store many times). Their jackets are half-canvassed and made in Italy. I haven't seen any S&M products so I can't compare.

In your case, I'd suggest sticking to S&M. You already know that their cut fits you, so there's less risk. Plus it sounds like you can do in-person MTM for the same price as the RTW from Pini Parma.

A few other things to be aware of with Pini Parma: their jackets are quite short (too short for me at 182 cm). I think they're significantly shorter than the Neapolitan cut at S&M (judging from the size chart). The buttoning stance is also rather high (which is unfortunate from a brand that wants to be sartorial). Living in Europe, I tend to prefer Suit Supply because it's cheaper than Pini Parma and I haven't noticed a big difference in quality.

Thanks for the suggestions...I guess Pini Parma isn't worth it. I've had great experiences with Spier and Mackay anyways.

 

[Thres]

I'm voting for Spier and Mackay, Neopolitan cut

 

[tayyabp]

S&M seems to have a lot of fans. What material is best for a blazer-suit though? Hopsack? Fresco? Something else?

 

[breakaway01]

I would recommend against hopsack if you plan to wear it regularly. It tends to develop a shine over high-abrasion areas more quickly than other weaves. IMO it is not ideal fabric for trousers because it wears faster and is more likely to snag. For a blazer suit I would vote for fresco over hopsack.

 

[tayyabp]

I would recommend against hopsack if you plan to wear it regularly. It tends to develop a shine over high-abrasion areas more quickly than other weaves. IMO it is not ideal fabric for trousers because it wears faster and is more likely to snag. For a blazer suit I would vote for fresco over hopsack.

ah, ok. good to know. i guess ill go with fresco.

 

[norMD]

ah, ok. good to know. i guess ill go with fresco.

See if they have vbc 4 ply swatches as well. Like fresco it is a high twist wool which some find less scratchy. I think they also have a no name traveller wool which would be cheaper.