First S&M MTM sportcoat fit advice

[Nitrogen]

After returning 2 RTW Spier & Mackay suits I decided to try and go for a MTM sportcoat to get a fitting jacket. The jacket feels great, but I'd appreciate any comments from better trained eyes before ordering another coat.

I have never worn spalla camicia shoulders or a neopolitan fit, so I don't really know if the shoulders look ok or are they a tad too wide? Due to my wide and heavily sloped shoulders, I put a lot of slope correction and extra room to avoid too much tightness that is almost always the problem with jackets. Sleeve length may also be just a little bit too long?

To my untrained eye, the overall proportions and jacket length look ok, but I've probably never worn a suit jacket that would actually be the right length before.

Thanks a lot in advance! The expert advice from styleforum readers has really helped me take a step towards tailored clothing.

 

[Nitrogen]

On more newbie question related to fabrics: I have my eyes on a more light summer sportcoat, for example https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/di-pray---blue--brown-check-16-5323-2-mto-j

It mentions that
Fabric Weight 260 gsm, 55% Silk 45% Virgin Wool.

Is a Silk / Wool blend something that would be somewhat cool for wearing in the summertime?

 

[notdos]

So, you’re gonna get varying responses. I’d suggest an unstructured jacket because of the shoulder issue.
This jacket appears to small and to short.


Phillip

 

[Nitrogen]

So, you’re gonna get varying responses. I’d suggest an unstructured jacket because of the shoulder issue.
This jacket appears to small and to short.


Phillip

Thank you, this is helpful to hear another opinion. Would you care to elaborate how it is too small?

Regarding the length, I thought the opposite. I read that the jacket should be "half the length from the collar to the floor, so roughly half of the suit is jacket, half trouser."

I think that applies relatively well.

Also, I read that "the jacket should end at the second joint of your thumb", which is also the case.

Have I got this all wrong and how much longer should the jacket be?

 

[Stylewords]

Thank you, this is helpful to hear another opinion. Would you care to elaborate how it is too small?

Regarding the length, I thought the opposite. I read that the jacket should be "half the length from the collar to the floor, so roughly half of the suit is jacket, half trouser."

I think that applies relatively well.

Also, I read that "the jacket should end at the second joint of your thumb", which is also the case.

Have I got this all wrong and how much longer should the jacket be?

I think the length is probably about right. The jacket seems a little tight in the lower back on the side view. It might need to be let out a touch and it should fall a little better. It would also look better if you weren't wearing those very baggy trousers, which mess up the proportions in my opinion.

 

[breakaway01]

The last full length photo is a little hard to interpret. Can you describe your build? It looks like you are heavier around the hips, but maybe it’s the angle of the camera or the fit of your trousers. Not sure if the jacket is contributing to that impression or if it’s just an illusion of the photo.

 

[Nitrogen]

The last full length photo is a little hard to interpret. Can you describe your build? It looks like you are heavier around the hips, but maybe it’s the angle of the camera or the fit of your trousers. Not sure if the jacket is contributing to that impression or if it’s just an illusion of the photo.

Around 2 meters tall, somewhat muscular, with some excess weight on the waist. The trousers certainly are baggy and ill fitting but they were the first thing I happened to grab. I can try to take another with proper trousers.

 

[Nitrogen]

Here's another set of pictures with a better pant (also S&M, unfortunately a tad too small rise and thigh).

 

[breakaway01]

Changing the trousers really helped, thank you!

My own opinions -- in terms of the simple things to correct, I agree that the sleeves are a little long.

Less easy and more subjective -- agree with the earlier posts that the jacket may be a little short. Not so short that it's a problem, but I think it would look better if it were a little (maybe 1/2") longer. The buttoning point would also be lowered proportionally, lengthening the lapel line a bit. The guideline about it ending partway down your thumb is not an iron-clad rule.

You have a somewhat prominent chest. I think you tried to address this by sizing up, but now you have too much cloth across the back and a little too much across the shoulders. Would keep the volume in the chest but try to decrease the cloth in the back. You also have some sleevehead divots -- in this case probably not from the shoulder width being too narrow but rather from the armholes/sleeveheads being too small and/or improperly shaped for your upper arms. I don't think these are things that can be addressed by MTO, though. Maybe they can address it by MTM but I think S&M only offers in-person MTM.

Some of this is getting pretty nit-picky. I get the sense that you have a somewhat challenging build for RTW. I think if you just shortened the sleeves a bit and asked a tailor to clean up the upper back, the jacket would be quite wearable. Just some things to consider for future orders.

 

[Nitrogen]

Changing the trousers really helped, thank you!

My own opinions -- in terms of the simple things to correct, I agree that the sleeves are a little long.

Less easy and more subjective -- agree with the earlier posts that the jacket may be a little short. Not so short that it's a problem, but I think it would look better if it were a little (maybe 1/2") longer. The buttoning point would also be lowered proportionally, lengthening the lapel line a bit. The guideline about it ending partway down your thumb is not an iron-clad rule.

You have a somewhat prominent chest. I think you tried to address this by sizing up, but now you have too much cloth across the back and a little too much across the shoulders. Would keep the volume in the chest but try to decrease the cloth in the back. You also have some sleevehead divots -- in this case probably not from the shoulder width being too narrow but rather from the armholes/sleeveheads being too small and/or improperly shaped for your upper arms. I don't think these are things that can be addressed by MTO, though. Maybe they can address it by MTM but I think S&M only offers in-person MTM.

Some of this is getting pretty nit-picky. I get the sense that you have a somewhat challenging build for RTW. I think if you just shortened the sleeves a bit and asked a tailor to clean up the upper back, the jacket would be quite wearable. Just some things to consider for future orders.

Thank you for the feedback! This really helped me form my opinion. I decided to try and order a base size 45L instead of a 46L. This will reduce the chest a little bit, but I took the risk because I am currently at my heaviest. I also added some more length and took a tiny bit off the shoulders and sleeves. And yeah, it is MTO not MTM, sorry for the confusing title.

My build is indeed difficult, and because it is typically impossible to find anything even close to fitting, I am pretty happy with how this jacket fits to begin with. With these minor adjustments and a visit to the tailor, I think I will still be able to build a selection of affordable tailored jackets.

 

[maxalex]

The shoulders appear too wide which probably accounts for the divots. The sleeves should fall naturally from the seam, straight down. The jacket is also too short for you. Make sure you address those problems first in MTM. Sleeve length and waist fit are easily adjusted.