First real suit

[EZB]

you have a very prominent chest and it may be hard for you to get a good fit in RTW. Just going up in the chest size may lead to shoulders being too wide and too much room in the back. The trousers will certainly be too large for your drop.

you might actually be the uncommon person who needs custom, but the person fitting you needs to recognize your fit issues and the system they use has to be able to accommodate the necessary changes to the block pattern (if you’re using MTM).

This was exactly my issue. Making the chest fit would mess up the shoulders. For pants, making the thighs fit meant a huge waist

 

[dieworkwear]

I don't know anything about pattern drafting, but my understanding is that proportions can get out of sync when you start with a base pattern (say 40) and then scale up. At a certain point, you need to draft a new pattern. But many companies will just grade a pattern off of 40 because it's more cost-efficient.

Meaning, they'll draft a pattern for a size 40 and then scale up and down for 42 and 38. That may also work for 44. But once you hit 46, you need someone to take the time to draft a new pattern for someone with that build. But not all companies do that because they don't sell enough size 46 suits to justify the cost.

If you're getting recommendations on this board, I imagine most people are going to recommend stuff that personally works for them. You may be better off trying to find members, say in the WAYWT threads, that have a similar build to you, and see where they buy clothes. A guy who normally shops for a size 38 may not be able to help you as much.

I do think the OP could benefit from a custom-made suit, but I don't know enough about what's available in the RTW market. Also depends if he lives in one of the major cities where custom tailoring is an option. I think, at a certain point, if you suspect you might pour 100 hours into finding a decent RTW suit, you may as well go custom because of the opportunity cost of how that time could be otherwise spent.

 

[bvbellomo]

Most clothing makers want to make clothes for super-skinny 150lbs 6' 2" young models - shop for suits online, that's all the pictures you see. But they sell mostly to out of shape, overweight, older people - this is most Americans, especially those with money. Average people choose between a design for a 150lbs 6' 2" young model but scaled up, or for a 250lbs 5' 9" man who has no muscle.

 

[dieworkwear]

Average people choose between a design for a 150lbs 6' 2" young model but scaled up, or for a 250lbs 5' 9" man who has no muscle.

I'm neither of those things. When I paid more attention to RTW, I liked how Attolini fit me (I don't know what their line is like now). I was also impressed with the one Sartoria Formosa sport coat I tried on. And I've seen good examples of RTW tailoring online by guys of various builds, including stuff from Ralph Lauren, Sartoria Carrera, Suitsupply, and Spier & MacKay. I once helped a friend find a suit. He's tall, broad-shouldered, and has an athletic build. We found something right for his build at The Armoury. I think you just have to find something that works for you.

 

[bvbellomo]

I did want to see how a fully unstructured suit looked, so here is a J-Crew Ludlow(44R). I'd like to compare to a size up, but this was literally the largest jacket in the whole store. I'd also like a wider lapel, fabric that isn't so wrinkly (not sure if that's the style or just poor store practice), and more taper if possible so I have less belly (I know I have some, but hanging loose fabric makes it look bigger). Consider this would be around 20% of my budget (on sale) it doesn't look bad at all, IMO better than anything Brooks had. However I'd still like to see more options, and would greatly appreciate comments on the unstructured look on me, and other options besides J-Crew. If this were not wrinkled, I don't think it is too informal for interviews or fancy dinners. It still has the bad fold across the chest, but not nearly as bad.

Is unstructured easier to buy online, since less can go wrong? Or harder, since it will be harder to alter?

I also saw an indochino next door. I've read mixed reviews, but they were certainly busy - too busy to talk to me more than a minute without an appointment or make one for today. My understanding is I have to commit to purchase sight unseen, likely a deal breaker. But counting tailoring costs, Indochino is one of the cheapest options.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

^ on the contrary, in my opinion unstructured is more difficult as it’s hard to hide the sins of shoddy workmanship behind padding.

An unstructured jacket is something best done by a tailor who has measured you. A Neapolitan jacket comes to mind when thinking of unstructured or minimally structured.

As for Indochino, I’m not familiar with the brand, but there’s likely a good reason why it’s so cheap.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I did want to see how a fully unstructured suit looked, so here is a J-Crew Ludlow(44R). I'd like to compare to a size up, but this was literally the largest jacket in the whole store. I'd also like a wider lapel, fabric that isn't so wrinkly (not sure if that's the style or just poor store practice), and more taper if possible so I have less belly (I know I have some, but hanging loose fabric makes it look bigger). Consider this would be around 20% of my budget (on sale) it doesn't look bad at all, IMO better than anything Brooks had. However I'd still like to see more options, and would greatly appreciate comments on the unstructured look on me, and other options besides J-Crew. If this were not wrinkled, I don't think it is too informal for interviews or fancy dinners. It still has the bad fold across the chest, but not nearly as bad.

Is unstructured easier to buy online, since less can go wrong? Or harder, since it will be harder to alter?
View attachment 1342699

I also saw an indochino next door. I've read mixed reviews, but they were certainly busy - too busy to talk to me more than a minute without an appointment or make one for today. My understanding is I have to commit to purchase sight unseen, likely a deal breaker. But counting tailoring costs, Indochino is one of the cheapest options.

I agree, not bad at all.

I'd keep it. It looks like a casual cotton sports coat.

I didn't know it was part of a suit until I read your post. You could easily wear that jacket as a separate, like you are doing now, or as part of a full suit.

If it is indeed cotton, the pants will be more wrinkly and informal though if that's an issue.

 

[dieworkwear]

J. Crew jacket looks like it has a short front balance. I agree it looks better than the Brooks though.

 

[bvbellomo]

I agree, not bad at all.

I'd keep it. It looks like a casual cotton sports coat.

I didn't know it was part of a suit until I read your post. You could easily wear that jacket as a separate, like you are doing now, or as part of a full suit.

If it is indeed cotton, the pants will be more wrinkly and informal though if that's an issue.

Cotton/linen blend - maybe this is why it is so cheap. I see an Italian wool version online for more than twice the cost (still less than half Brooks Brothers). It is really a sports coat, but they sell pants made of the same material so you could wear it as a suit.

Probably too wrinkled for interviews, but I would wear this on a date or any nicer occasion, and somewhat regret not buying it, just based on the price, although I can go back or get one online.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Cotton/linen blend - maybe this is why it is so cheap. I see an Italian wool version online for more than twice the cost (still less than half Brooks Brothers). It is really a sports coat, but they sell pants made of the same material so you could wear it as a suit.

Probably too wrinkled for interviews, but I would wear this on a date or any nicer occasion, and somewhat regret not buying it, just based on the price, although I can go back or get one online.

It's up to you man, it looks like you're getting a better idea on what to look for though. I agree that it'd be great on a date or nicer occasion.

 

[compuccesory]

I did want to see how a fully unstructured suit looked, so here is a J-Crew Ludlow(44R). I'd like to compare to a size up, but this was literally the largest jacket in the whole store. I'd also like a wider lapel, fabric that isn't so wrinkly (not sure if that's the style or just poor store practice), and more taper if possible so I have less belly (I know I have some, but hanging loose fabric makes it look bigger). Consider this would be around 20% of my budget (on sale) it doesn't look bad at all, IMO better than anything Brooks had. However I'd still like to see more options, and would greatly appreciate comments on the unstructured look on me, and other options besides J-Crew. If this were not wrinkled, I don't think it is too informal for interviews or fancy dinners. It still has the bad fold across the chest, but not nearly as bad.

Is unstructured easier to buy online, since less can go wrong? Or harder, since it will be harder to alter?
View attachment 1342699

I also saw an indochino next door. I've read mixed reviews, but they were certainly busy - too busy to talk to me more than a minute without an appointment or make one for today. My understanding is I have to commit to purchase sight unseen, likely a deal breaker. But counting tailoring costs, Indochino is one of the cheapest options.

I have this suit, but in grey, for $130, it's good for summer garden parties but that's about it. Don't wear a cotton suit to an interview.

JCrew will also hem pant legs and sleeves for free if you sign up for a card. It's OK. They never have 46s in store unless its a return, so order one online and try it out, return it if it doesn't fit.

I have a similar build as you except I'm only 5"9' so I have to get a 46S which is even more difficult. The best OTR suits for me have been my Eidos Balthazar (you can find these on ebay maybe but they don't make them anymore AFAIK), Belvest, Caruso and Sartoria Castangia. In all cases a drop 6 works best although a drop 7 is passable if a bit snug. Note that a 56/46 drop 6 in Italian pant size is going to have pants close to a US size 36 waist, because of vanity sizing in most US market pants. Suitsupply sizing is probably closest if you want to get a feel for it. The Italian full canvas suitmakers make everything from Drop 4 to Drop 9, and the jackets will be cut differently as well, try those out. EDIT: Brioni as well.

 

[bvbellomo]

I have this suit, but in grey, for $130, it's good for summer garden parties but that's about it. Don't wear a cotton suit to an interview.

JCrew will also hem pant legs and sleeves for free if you sign up for a card. It's OK. They never have 46s in store unless its a return, so order one online and try it out, return it if it doesn't fit.

I have a similar build as you except I'm only 5"9' so I have to get a 46S which is even more difficult. The best OTR suits for me have been my Eidos Balthazar (you can find these on ebay maybe but they don't make them anymore AFAIK), Belvest, Caruso and Sartoria Castangia. In all cases a drop 6 works best although a drop 7 is passable if a bit snug. Note that a 56/46 drop 6 in Italian pant size is going to have pants close to a US size 36 waist, because of vanity sizing in most US market pants. Suitsupply sizing is probably closest if you want to get a feel for it. The Italian full canvas suitmakers make everything from Drop 4 to Drop 9, and the jackets will be cut differently as well, try those out. EDIT: Brioni as well.

Depends on the interview. Lots of advice not to wear a suit at all and dress business casual for an Academic position, and most programmer positions are casual. I think this would be a great suit for an interview where I work now.

I hate vanity sizing, which puts sizes all over the place. At summer weight, I am actually a 36" - meaning 3' of tape exactly circles my mid section at the narrowest. This translates to anywhere from size 32 to 36 pants, which might get sized up to fit thighs and cavs.

I've looked a lot at used Brioni, and am tempted to buy a suit with nice pictures online. However without a good tailor, this is probably a mistake.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I've looked a lot at used Brioni, and am tempted to buy a suit with nice pictures online. However without a good tailor, this is probably a mistake.

Please resist this temptation. The overall condition of the suit is hard to gauge as well as any alterations that have been done. Also, you’re assuming the seller has measured it properly and assuming it’s not a fake with a Brioni label sewn into it.

You live in Cleveland, right? While it’s certainly not a sprawling metropolis, it’s also not the sticks. You have plenty of options so avoid the hassle and risk and get something locally, be it OTR or made to measure. This is my advice to anyone, but especially someone who is somewhat new to this and finds himself hard to fit.

 

[bvbellomo]

So at JCrew's advice, I bought 3 Ludlow suits with the intent of returning at least 2 of them.
The first is a 44R Classic:

The 2nd is a 44R Slim, the same size as my previous photo:

And the last is a 46R slim:

As of right now, I am still leaning towards the 44R slim, although I wonder if I should have ordered a long.

 

[Despos]

Look for a jacket that is better balanced for your posture. You have an erect posture and need a longer front. Notice the hem on the fronts hikes upward and the back is wrinkling because it is too long. The correction when cutting a jacket for your posture is a longer front and shorter back. (adding length across the front shoulder and reducing the back length along the shoulder) The front of the jacket should be longer than the hem at the back from a side view.
The jacket fronts on this jacket are scissoring. That is the front edge below the button are crossing over each other. If the front panels were made longer from the shoulder the front edges below the button would fall more parallel to each other. If your intent is to get one suit for multiple purposes, better to invest in a proper fit. You could find a jacket that will fit better but it's trying as many brands as possible and knowing what you are looking for to recognize a better fitting jacket. Will be difficult to find amongst brands that have a modern trim aesthetic