First (real suit) suggestions...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by lifersfc, Aug 3, 2006.

  1. lifersfc

    lifersfc Senior member

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    Although I own two poorly-constructed suits, I am on the verge of purchasing my first "real" suit (start work as a management consultant soon). I am 190 lbs and 6' 1" (lean and muscular) and wear about a 43 jacket and 33 trousers. Obviously these are not typical OTR measurements so I think I need something with an athletic/slim cut (even before the tailoring starts). I would like flat front pants and am willing to spend $400-500.

    My plan was to check out Nordstrom Rack, Neiman Marcus Last Call, and Off Sak's 5th Avenue, but what brands, etc. should I be looking for? Please advise.
     
  2. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    You may actually want to look at the Corneliani/Isaia suits on STP. These two seem like decent deals and there are usually coupons floating around so you can get them under $500, you can probably try on similar suits at Off 5th or Last Call:

    http://www.sierratradingpost.com/p/4...t-For-Men.html
    http://www.sierratradingpost.com/p/4...t-For-Men.html

    As for brands, I would look at Polo Blue Label, Zegna (regular line, not Z Zegna or Soft), Corneliani, potentially Isaia but it will be hard to find at that price except perhaps at Filenes or C21.
     
  3. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Senior member

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    Your plan of hitting the outlets is surely the best way to go. Just be sure it's a real suit and not one made for the outlet store.
     
  4. lifersfc

    lifersfc Senior member

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    You may actually want to look at the Corneliani/Isaia suits on STP. These two seem like decent deals and there are usually coupons floating around so you can get them under $500, you can probably try on similar suits at Off 5th or Last Call:

    http://www.sierratradingpost.com/p/4...t-For-Men.html
    http://www.sierratradingpost.com/p/4...t-For-Men.html

    As for brands, I would look at Polo Blue Label, Zegna (regular line, not Z Zegna or Soft), Corneliani, potentially Isaia but it will be hard to find at that price except perhaps at Filenes or C21.


    I can hit up Filene's in a few weeks once I am back in Boston, so that's a possibility... Any other brands I could check out? And what's wrong with the Zegna lines Z and Soft?
     
  5. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I can hit up Filene's in a few weeks once I am back in Boston, so that's a possibility... Any other brands I could check out? And what's wrong with the Zegna lines Z and Soft?

    Zegna's lesser lines are vastly overpriced for what they are. Much better quality can be had for much less.

    I will second the nomination for Corneliani/Polo blue label. Corneliani, however, is a far nicer suit, assuming it is not from the "CC" or "Trend" collections.
     
  6. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    I can hit up Filene's in a few weeks once I am back in Boston, so that's a possibility... Any other brands I could check out? And what's wrong with the Zegna lines Z and Soft?

    Z and Soft lines are fused rather than Canvassed and overpriced for what they are. The Z line is pretty fashion forward as well and likely wouldn't be appropriate for a first suit.
     
  7. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    Zegna's lesser lines are vastly overpriced for what they are. Much better quality can be had for much less.

    I will second the nomination for Corneliani/Polo blue label. Corneliani, however, is a far nicer suit, assuming it is not from the "CC" or "Trend" collections.


    I thought Polo Blue was Corneliani, or were you saying these two are better than Zegna Z/Soft?
     
  8. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I thought Polo Blue was Corneliani, or were you saying these two are better than Zegna Z/Soft?

    Polo blue label is made by Corneliani, but to a lesser standard than the Corneliani mainline stuff. Fusing, less (no?) handwork.

    The old, American-made blue label stuff was fully canvassed, but no more.
     
  9. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    Polo blue label is made by Corneliani, but to a lesser standard than the Corneliani mainline stuff. Fusing, less (no?) handwork.

    The old, American-made blue label stuff was fully canvassed, but no more.


    Hehe I guess I'm behind the times on the Polo Blue Label stuff... RLPL is still made by St. Andrews, no?
     
  10. lifersfc

    lifersfc Senior member

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    Am I to assume then that any Italian-made, canvassed suit with conservative styling in my price range is a good buy?
     
  11. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    Am I to assume then that any Italian-made, canvassed suit with conservative styling in my price range is a good buy?

    I wouldn't say "ANY" because I'm sure there are some random Italian made suits that we don't know about. I think it would be safer to stick to the standbys. Corneliani (main line), Polo Blue (even if fused), BB Golden Fleece (on sale), Isaia, Zegna, Belvest (from ebay or STP), Canali... I'm sure there are others that I'm missing but you should be able to find the following labels around for a good price. If you're in the boston area, if the LB sale is going on, it might not be a bad place to look as well as Filenes.
     
  12. lakewolf

    lakewolf Senior member

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    If you have a 43 jacket and 33 trousers maybe you should consider to buy separates... but maybe a good athletic cut suit could fit better... anyway I have tried on the athletic suits in america and I am not so happy with them...

    See I have almost perfect standard european measurements... have 48 cm shoulders so I should use size 48 that is equivalent to a US 38R, The 48 suits fit me almost perfect in shoulders, sleeve lenght, trousers waist and lenght, trousers come normally in size 32.

    But I have a wider chest than the standard 38", I have 41" chest so I should use a 40R or 42R jacket , but those jackets have wider shoulders and longer sleeves...

    So the best solution is simply to try them on, different makers cut them different, I discovered I have less problems with my chest with 2 button jackets and also that some makers do wider chest 3 button jackets than others... and it is best to take a jacket that fits well even if the upper button closes tight and then make it alter by a tailor, just make sure that there is enough fabric to perform the alteration see if the joints are wide enough.
     
  13. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    If you have a 43 jacket and 33 trousers maybe you should consider to buy separates... but maybe a good athletic cut suit could fit better... anyway I have tried on the athletic suits in america and I am not so happy with them...

    See I have almost perfect standard european measurements... have 48 cm shoulders so I should use size 48 that is equivalent to a US 38R, The 48 suits fit me almost perfect in shoulders, sleeve lenght, trousers waist and lenght, trousers come normally in size 32.

    But I have a wider chest than the standard 38", I have 41" chest so I should use a 40R or 42R jacket , but those jackets have wider shoulders and longer sleeves...

    So the best solution is simply to try them on, different makers cut them different, I discovered I have less problems with my chest with 2 button jackets and also that some makers do wider chest 3 button jackets than others... and it is best to take a jacket that fits well even if the upper button closes tight and then make it alter by a tailor, just make sure that there is enough fabric to perform the alteration see if the joints are wide enough.


    Depending on the fit of the jacket, most suits marked "42R" will have ~35" waist or so, and can be taken in a few inches, as long as the suit itself fits in the shoulders, waist, etc, and if the chest is a bit tight, it's easy to go from 42" to 43" It's likely it'll have to be brought in a bit in the waist, but I imagine an off the rack 42-43 will be close, with the major adjustments that have to be made in the waist of the pants and jacket.
     
  14. lakewolf

    lakewolf Senior member

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    Depending on the fit of the jacket, most suits marked "42R" will have ~35" waist or so, and can be taken in a few inches, as long as the suit itself fits in the shoulders, waist, etc, and if the chest is a bit tight, it's easy to go from 42" to 43" It's likely it'll have to be brought in a bit in the waist, but I imagine an off the rack 42-43 will be close, with the major adjustments that have to be made in the waist of the pants and jacket.

    I think to convert a 35" trousers to 32" would require major reengineering [​IMG] ... I still buy my suits in 38R ( 48 European ) and have them refit in the upper button.

    By the way I like the suits near-to-the-body... not of US sack kind
     
  15. lifersfc

    lifersfc Senior member

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    I like the look of the cuts of the suits on polo.com, but which ones are blue label? Not that I would buy a suit from them directly, but I'm still curious. I've only ever heard of purple label...
     

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