First raw denim jean - which to choose?

[Mr. Moo]

Hi all,

Let me start off that I love the Levi's 514's I own. They aren't raw, but they fit well, are comfortable and don't make me feel like I'm a high school kid. My favorite pair of jeans, a dark pair of Guess, were stolen out of our car a few weeks ago and I'm pretty bitter about that. They were slightly tapered, and I loved them.

What I like in a jean:

1) Not baggy
2) Not too much flash on the back pockets
3) Slim, but not ultra-slim fitting (going back to the non-baggy aesthetic)
4) Slight taper
5) Dark blue color
6) $200 price tag

I wear a size 36-38 usually depending on what jean it is. I have fairly thick legs from weightlifting, so I can't rock an ultra tight jean.

Oh, I can be at Self Edge almost any weekend, if that's the best option.

Thanks!

 

[kiya]

If you can come into the store (Self Edge) i think you should, we've got over 50 different models of jeans, all dry/raw and almost all with little to no back pocket stitchings.

 

[LA Guy]

The only jean in the SF area that would, imo, rival that of the jeans that Kiya sells would be 5EPs (which the MAC has smattering of deadstock of), and Jeanshop, Kicking Mule, and RRL. I think that Rolo Market, and AB Fits carries those. Barneys has RRL. However, while the MAC dudes are super nice, they are really fashionheads rather than denim specialists, and the SAs at the other places are going to be, with very few exceptions, not particularly useful, helpful though they might be.

Selfedge is a good place to go, but you are unlikely to get under the $200 mark. Of all the jeans I've mentioned, only the RRL comes close - they are about $210-$230 for a basic pair. The rest are in the $250-$275 mark, which is similar to Kiya's prices.

 

[Mr. Moo]

Originally Posted by kiya

If you can come into the store (Self Edge) i think you should, we've got over 50 different models of jeans, all dry/raw and almost all with little to no back pocket stitchings.

I may do this. Are you open Sat and Sun?

 

[keikun13]

Definitely check out Self Edge. But besides that, APC New Standards are pretty much what you're looking for in a starter raw denim pair. They're of decent quality, selvedge, no back pocket stitching, and under $200 ($155 or cheaper if you're patient and lurk B&S). Just make sure you get the sizing right.

 

[Mr. Moo]

Originally Posted by keikun13

Definitely check out Self Edge. But besides that, APC New Standards are pretty much what you're looking for in a starter raw denim pair. They're of decent quality, selvedge, no back pocket stitching, and under $200 ($155 or cheaper if you're patient and lurk B&S). Just make sure you get the sizing right.

Sounds like Self Edge might be the way to go.

To my untrained eye, a slim fit jean from Company A is the same as Company B, Company C, etc. What makes all of those companies listed on the Self Edge website different?

 

[blackdarkeye]

Originally Posted by Mr. Moo

Sounds like Self Edge might be the way to go. To my untrained eye, a slim fit jean from Company A is the same as Company B, Company C, etc. What makes all of those companies listed on the Self Edge website different?
they use different cloths and dyes. BTW i dont think selfedge sells apcs.

 

[Mr. Moo]

Originally Posted by LA Guy

The only jean in the SF area that would, imo, rival that of the jeans that Kiya sells would be 5EPs (which the MAC has smattering of deadstock of), and Jeanshop, Kicking Mule, and RRL. I think that Rolo Market, and AB Fits carries those. Barneys has RRL. However, while the MAC dudes are super nice, they are really fashionheads rather than denim specialists, and the SAs at the other places are going to be, with very few exceptions, not particularly useful, helpful though they might be.

Selfedge is a good place to go, but you are unlikely to get under the $200 mark. Of all the jeans I've mentioned, only the RRL comes close - they are about $210-$230 for a basic pair. The rest are in the $250-$275 mark, which is similar to Kiya's prices.

Thanks. What is MAC?

 

[Mr. Moo]

Originally Posted by blackdarkeye

they use different cloths and dyes.

Can you elaborate? What is better/worse? What different cloths? What are the pros and cons of each?

 

[shoreman1782]

Are you serious, dude? Go to the store.

 

[Tarmac]

Originally Posted by Mr. Moo

Thanks. What is MAC?
Modern Appealing Clothing or something like that, in Hayes Valley

Originally Posted by Mr. Moo

Can you elaborate? What is better/worse? What different cloths? What are the pros and cons of each?
It's basically preference. Weight, feel, color, fade, etc. You have to see in real life to get a good sense of what they look like. One more thing, don't fiddle over $80 difference in price. Get the ones you like the best. If you don't, you will buy $200 jeans now, then buy another pair of $280 jeans in 6 months.

 

[dibadiba]

Originally Posted by Mr. Moo

Can you elaborate? What is better/worse? What different cloths? What are the pros and cons of each?
for example, selfedge sells both Iron Heart and Flathead denim. While they're both raw denim, they feel and fade totally differently. Iron heart denim is extremely heavy (21-22oz) while Flathead denim is typically a nice midweight (14.5oz?) denim. flatheads are noted for their high-contrast fading, while Ironhearts are a lot harder to fade and end up being quite subtle. the differences in the cloth aka denim become more apparent as the indigo fades, which is in itself effected by the dye used. kiya could explain it better than I can if you head over to selfedge and check everything out in person as well

 

[LA Guy]

Originally Posted by Mr. Moo

Thanks. What is MAC?

MAC = Modern Appealing Clothing - it's a store. They have Dope & Drakkar jeans as well as 5EP. IMO, 5EP offers the most complex indigo dye in any jean that I've seen, (Japanese or otherwise) under the $500 mark. However, there are only 2 fits (excepting the 5EPxSF jean, which was sold out quite a while ago).

Go to Selfedge. It has the highest concentration of specialty denim on the West Coast.

My only complaint is that they do not stock Somet, which is my personal favorite of the Japanese companies available in the States.

 

[Mr. Moo]

Originally Posted by Tarmac

Modern Appealing Clothing or something like that, in Hayes Valley



It's basically preference. Weight, feel, color, fade, etc. You have to see in real life to get a good sense of what they look like.

One more thing, don't fiddle over $80 difference in price. Get the ones you like the best. If you don't, you will buy $200 jeans now, then buy another pair of $280 jeans in 6 months.

Originally Posted by dibadiba

for example, selfedge sells both Iron Heart and Flathead denim. While they're both raw denim, they feel and fade totally differently. Iron heart denim is extremely heavy (21-22oz) while Flathead denim is typically a nice midweight (14.5oz?) denim. flatheads are noted for their high-contrast fading, while Ironhearts are a lot harder to fade and end up being quite subtle. the differences in the cloth aka denim become more apparent as the indigo fades, which is in itself effected by the dye used. kiya could explain it better than I can if you head over to selfedge and check everything out in person as well

Originally Posted by LA Guy

MAC = Modern Appealing Clothing - it's a store. They have Dope & Drakkar jeans as well as 5EP. IMO, 5EP offers the most complex indigo dye in any jean that I've seen, (Japanese or otherwise) under the $500 mark. However, there are only 2 fits (excepting the 5EPxSF jean, which was sold out quite a while ago).

Go to Selfedge. It has the highest concentration of specialty denim on the West Coast.

My only complaint is that they do not stock Somet, which is my personal favorite of the Japanese companies available in the States.

OK, thank you guys. I think I can take some of this knowledge and visit the store this week or the next.

 

[kiya]

Originally Posted by Mr. Moo

I may do this. Are you open Sat and Sun?

We're open every day... noon to 7pm every day, noon to 5pm on Sundays.