Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Pierce R, Dec 20, 2012.
Have you measured your waist or are you just saying that size 33 rtw pants fit you?
I don't need the Power Suit until March. I can get by with flannel slacks and OCBD's for the first few weeks at the firm. It sure would be great to show up in a good suit my first day, though.
Boy, that's a good question. 33w slacks fit comfortably.
The widest point of my belly, just below my navel, is 34.75". So that actually gives me a couple of inches to play with.
Do you just get used to wearing pants all the way up there? It seems really awkward.
Haha, well spoken. I wonder if starting a company that sells OTR suits for athletic people would be a good idea. I mean, there are more and more men who watch out for their body, and not just in the military. Most of them wear denim of course, and make do with an ill-fitting suit for one occasion per year that calls for one, or go MTM or bespoke if they need a good suit. There's got to be call for this sort of thing.
To me that's the most attractive way to wear pants. But obviously you need pants with a high enough rise. Have you also measured your chest?
At least during/after the world wars when RTW really started to take off, patterns were based off of the average military body. Getting that data was actually a pretty important advancement at that time that allowed rtw fits to improve. I'm sure over time patterns have changed as men's waistlines have expanded, but I seriously doubt there was ever a time when an 11 inch drop was typical even for a military man.
Honestly, I'm also a friend of low-rise pants that sit on the hip. As I'm relatively short, pants that sit at the true waist only look good on me with a jacket, otherwise (at least in my eyes) they make me look like a midget on stilts.
But so many people, some really big names in style, are insisting on that is the correct way for suit pants to fit, that I'm just not experienced enough to argue with it. Truth be told, it DOES look good with a jacket. Just don't take the jacket off.
Obviously don't take the jacket off..for casual pants like jeans and cords that are meant to be worn without a jacket, the high rise is not the way to go.
My chest is 43.75." I really don't think I'm that disproportionate. I mean, I'm not Duke Nukem or anything. The main thing is, viewed from the side, my chest is V-shaped. My lats are really deep from my serratus up to my traps.
Removed the shirtless pic. This one's a little less gauche and shows my taper better. Sorry about that.
Have you considered running for congress?
I remember seeing a company that used to advertise in the backs of bodybuilding magazines. They only sold severely-tapered shirts. I don't remember the name so I have no idea where they are now.
Touche, monsieur. Touche.
Edit: Holy shit, your Tumblr is amazing. I want to be you when I grow up.
I would suggest that you stick with the 2 suits from Alexandre of SR to start with - ensure that you get a plain grey and navy, so you can wear them often with different shirt / tie combinations. Instead, spend the remaining $1K + on some good shirts and ties. Get your shirts made at a local MTM outfit and focus on ensuring the collar is big and high enough. Wearing BB OCBDs with a suit ensures that its no longer a "power" suit,
The 2 plain suits will provide a blank canvas upon which you can layer on different and interesting combinations. Keep the shirts and ties simple as well - no crazy stripes or bright pink ties. Take a look at the tumblrs of some of the more experienced members to get a sense of appropriate shirt / tie pairings. Good luck.
Ha, thanks. ET's advice is good - take it a little slow and figure out what you like first. Also if you don't yet have any really nice dress shoes, then that's the place to spend your extra cash. You might want to look at VictorSF's thread for inspiration, as he has a similar build as you:
Just below your navel is a medium rise. If they were truly high rise, they would sit at your natural waist, which is usually higher
You'll get used to the medium rise, it looks good on almost anyone. Heck, with your body shape you would even look good in a true high rise, with or without a jacket.
I'm going to start with the two plain MTM Alexandre suits -- a navy 3-piece and either gray or slightly-darker gray 2-piece -- and get an extra pair of trousers with each; one pair of each with side tabs, braces buttons, and no loops. Because braces.
We shook hands on the job a couple of weeks ago, and I'm told the offer letter should be in the mail after the first of the year. As soon as I get it I'm going shopping and I'll post pics as I go along.
Thanks, all, and Merry Christmas.
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