First Post-Thoughts on this OTR Battistoni?

[coverto]

Hello Folks,

Been lurking here awhile and was looking for thoughts on the fit of this jacket? Aside from the wrinkles on the back which I believe are mainly a function of the fabric being super 140s, I think one of the vents got hung up on a belt loop or something. Aside from that, looking for thoughts on what it might need.

Also, sorry for not being able to post the image directly to the screen - not sure how to do that, and thanks for taking the trouble of clicking on it.

 

[bmulford]

Originally Posted by coverto

Hello Folks,

Been lurking here awhile and was looking for thoughts on the fit of this jacket? Aside from the wrinkles on the back which I believe are mainly a function of the fabric being super 140s, I think one of the vents got hung up on a belt loop or something. Aside from that, looking for thoughts on what it might need.

Also, sorry for not being able to post the image directly to the screen - not sure how to do that, and thanks for taking the trouble of clicking on it.

I love the battistoni's myself - but they run a little narrow I've observed. The back reveals that the coat doesn't fit well. Too much pulling at the hip, too much fabric under the arms, some collar roll. I might suggest looking for another maker rather than trying to get this to work.

 

[Toorman]

+1

I own a couple - Super 150's and can tell you the issues relate to fit and not fabric. Keep searching till you find something that fits well.

 

[coverto]

Gentlemen - I must admit I'm a little taken aback by this summary judgement. I had been thinking in terms of what alterations might perfect it, while you're saying toss it altogether. Collar roll doesn't sound like grounds for a death sentence, and without the fabric under the arms - known as the "blade," I believe - I'd think I'd have a tough time raising my arms. Not sure I understand the point about the fatal hip tugging.

In any case, I'd appreciate a bit more elaboration, in addition to any other points of view on what I think overall is a pretty nice fit.

Again, thanks in advance.

 

[Toorman]

Far from an expert but mine fits much cleaner in the back/sleeves so I don't think it's an issue of drape but of fit. There are blades and there are blades. Plus there is some strange pulling going on over the right hand vent. The only alterations I required were sleve/button and pants hem. I think the best results are achieved by finding something that fits close to perfection and requires very little work vs. buying something that's not bad and trying to improve it with excessive tailoring. Ask our Tom Ford friend how that works out.

 

[sho'nuff]

the suit looks good in my opinion, in a sort of a 70's way. it may be due to the lighting but the color of the jacket and the cut of the pants make me think that.

overall i think the suit looks good.

 

[a tailor]

its too tight in the butt and waist. have the center seam let out.
no way a vent can hang up on a belt loop. your right hip is heavier, let out that side also.

 

[coverto]

All, thanks for your comments. As it happens, I've been able to persuade a couple of big-time menswear execs who happen to be friends of mine to take a look at the suit tomorrow. I'll post their thoughts tomorrow for all who are interested.

 

[coverto]

Folks - just an update that I showed the suit to my two bigwig consultants (one of them a former top exec at Barneys and Bergdorf Men's and the other the CEO of a men's suit label that shoppers at Nordstrom, Barneys and Bloomie's all know well...) and both of them loved it.

Neither recommended any tailoring apart from putting buttonholes in the sleeves, and perhaps lowering the rise of the pants (which aren't modeled in the pics).

The "blading" behind the arms is something we'll be seeing more of as the tighter "Mad Men" retro look becomes increasingly popular, one of them commented.

When I relayed the comments that the waist and butt might need to be let out, one supposed that this might be coming from an "old school" eye. "These days, it's a good thing to have a waist," was the response - nevertheless, I'm planning on hitting the gym and shrinking my own waist and butt rather than the jacket's.

 

[mainy]

why do people post things looking for advice, and then total disregard it when they get it

 

[polar-lemon]

Originally Posted by mainy

why do people post things looking for advice, and then total disregard it when they get it

Most people whose very first post is "critique my _____" have a rather high opinion of the item that they probably expect to be confirmed. People whose first post is "I'm clueless" and then subsequently post pics of items are more open to criticism.

 

[element02]

I agree polar-lemon.

Does anyone have any examples of "the tighter "Mad Men" retro look" referred to previously?

 

[Toorman]

Congratulations, you've just joined the grand mass of men who wear ill-fitting suits. At least yours is well constructed and made of quality fabric.

 

[coverto]

Thanks Toorman, although I've been a part of that grand mass for quite a while!

I think my friend's larger point about the blades was that they were more prominently a feature of men's suits in the 30s, 40s and 50s, and that there is certainly nothing reprehensible in that.