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First Pair of Dress Shoes - Please Help me decide

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by contaygious, Apr 6, 2008.

  1. contaygious

    contaygious Senior member

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    Location:
    San Francisco and Vancouver, B.C.
    For Jeans/Slacks/Linen Pants. No suits. I'm new to this so I don't really know what makes some casual/dress really, but here goes.

    I currently wear Prada Rubber Sole Oxfords (I know I know; that's why I need some REAL shoes). I am posting links to all the ones that I currently like, but if you think I missed some really great ones please do share!

    Zegna Derby
    http://www.barneys.com/b/browse/prod...egoryId=703547

    Zegna Abigeato Cap Toe
    http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/ca...550cat10650732

    Salvatore Ferragamo Raul Lace-Up
    http://ferragamo.neimanmarcus.com/st...ndex=12&tid=C9

    AE Soho
    http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline...1&occasion=189

    Prada Perforated Cordovan Oxford
    http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/ca...550cat10650732


    Thanks a lot for your time!

    P.S. As a Zegna whore I am leaning towards the Derbys right now...
     
  2. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I know squat about Zegna's shoes, but I think both styles would work well for your purposes. Think the Soho is a bit too dressy/stodgy, and strongly dislike the Prada.
     
  3. Piobaire

    Piobaire Senior member

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  4. Golf_Nerd

    Golf_Nerd Senior member

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    Stuttgart, germany
    For Jeans/Slacks/Linen Pants. No suits. I'm new to this so I don't really know what makes some casual/dress really, but here goes.

    I currently wear Prada Rubber Sole Oxfords (I know I know; that's why I need some REAL shoes). I am posting links to all the ones that I currently like, but if you think I missed some really great ones please do share!

    Zegna Derby
    http://www.barneys.com/b/browse/prod...egoryId=703547

    Zegna Abigeato Cap Toe
    http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/ca...550cat10650732

    Salvatore Ferragamo Raul Lace-Up
    http://ferragamo.neimanmarcus.com/st...ndex=12&tid=C9

    AE Soho
    http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline...1&occasion=189

    Prada Perforated Cordovan Oxford
    http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/ca...550cat10650732


    Thanks a lot for your time!

    P.S. As a Zegna whore I am leaning towards the Derbys right now...


    Hello,

    IMO the first shoe should be a black one. Then the second can be brown.

    The shoes you showed are different in shape. One and four are wider. The others are narrow. So check out first which shoe will work and then find one.

    AE is OK.

    Yours
    Golf_Nerd
     
  5. contaygious

    contaygious Senior member

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    Apr 5, 2008
    Location:
    San Francisco and Vancouver, B.C.
    Thanks for your help so far everyone. I know I should really get a black pair, but it's almost summer and so I will mostly wear white linen pants and lighter color striped sport shirts. Plus, I figure brown goes with everything, but please correct me if I'm wrong.
     
  6. Fuzzypuppy

    Fuzzypuppy Well-Known Member

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    Mar 29, 2008
    Why the Soho? Given the alternatives, wouldn't the Evanston be more equivalent?
     
  7. contaygious

    contaygious Senior member

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    Apr 5, 2008
    Location:
    San Francisco and Vancouver, B.C.
    Hmm good point. I guess I like the cleaner lines of the Soho better as opposed to the dotted pattern, but I am new at this. The Berkeley is pretty nice too. Quality wise is it generally better to go with AE over Zegna? I'll have to go to Harry Rosen and see the AE in person vs the Zegna I guess, but wanted to get everyone's thoughts first before I take the salesperson's word for it.
     
  8. vitaminc

    vitaminc Senior member

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    Zegna Abigeato Cap Toe. It's light colored with some antiquing and pretty sophisticated look. Soho is too formal for causal dressy look. The Pradas are too fashion forward if you intent to wear them to work. And I hate the Norwegian split toe look.

    BTW, I have seen a few pairs of AE; I never liked the quality of the leather or the cut. They might be well constructed but quality wise I rather pick Zegna or Prada dress shoes. The difference in life expectancy of shoes is pretty minimal if you take care of them the right way. I have a pair of Banana Republic boots and a pair of Guess laced up from the late 90s, both of them are still in fairly good conditions despite the age and wear.
     
  9. sanrensho

    sanrensho Senior member

    Messages:
    207
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2007
    For Jeans/Slacks/Linen Pants. No suits. I'm new to this so I don't really know what makes some casual/dress really, but here goes.

    I currently wear Prada Rubber Sole Oxfords (I know I know; that's why I need some REAL shoes). I am posting links to all the ones that I currently like, but if you think I missed some really great ones please do share!

    Zegna Derby
    http://www.barneys.com/b/browse/prod...egoryId=703547

    Zegna Abigeato Cap Toe
    http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/ca...550cat10650732

    Salvatore Ferragamo Raul Lace-Up
    http://ferragamo.neimanmarcus.com/st...ndex=12&tid=C9

    AE Soho
    http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline...1&occasion=189

    Prada Perforated Cordovan Oxford
    http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/ca...550cat10650732


    Thanks a lot for your time!

    P.S. As a Zegna whore I am leaning towards the Derbys right now...

    Here's my suggestion for a good foundation..geared more towards jeans and khakis: 1. Dark brown with a nice dark brown belt 2. Plain toe 3. Bluchers (the Soho is a balmoral and has a sleeker, more formal look..would be overpowered by jeans); maybe even chukka boots 4. Double sole if you are a bigger guy, single if you are thin/small Jeans look better with heavier-looking shoes...slacks/linen would go better with sleeker shoes.
     
  10. Jumbie

    Jumbie Senior member

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    127.0.0.1
    I was born in Vancouver, moved away while I was a baby and then returned for undergrad and remained there for 6 years. It rained for 6 years.

    Okay, obviously an exaggeration but my point is that IMO you're going to need some kind of shoe cover or commuting shoes to protect your nicer shoes (especially with the leather soles).
     
  11. Roger

    Roger Senior member

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    Vancouver
    I was born in Vancouver, moved away while I was a baby and then returned for undergrad and remained there for 6 years. It rained for 6 years.

    Okay, obviously an exaggeration but my point is that IMO you're going to need some kind of shoe cover or commuting shoes to protect your nicer shoes (especially with the leather soles).

    Quit complaining about the rain![​IMG] I too was born in Vancouver and have spent most of my life here. I can remember summers (maybe this will be one too) when we had no rain for two months! That's a fact, but I know your pain; I hate the rain too!

    Now to the business at hand. Contaygious, why don't you cast a wider net? DocHolliday is right, I think, about the Pradas. They look as if some kind of tracked vehicle ran over the vamp. Consider some monk shoes as well as lace-ups. They strike a nice balance, in my opinion, between dress and casual. A lace-up blucher (like the Zegna derby) would be fine, but I think you can do better than that shoe. I guess I know why you are considering the shoes you are--A-E, Prada, Zegna, Ferragamo--you've seen them all in Vancouver stores, but for the most part they aren't your best choice. And as far as getting good advice at Harry Rosen, just forget it. The typical sales guy at Harry Rosen, Holt Renfrew, etc., doesn't know his ass from page 4 when it comes to shoes (actually most things). If you're planning to drop $500 or $600, consider Crockett & Jones from PLal, an online seller. With some advice and care, you can very likely order the right size, and if they don't fit, you can return them.

    Here's the link:

    http://www.plal.com/crockett.htm

    For about $472 Cdn. delivered to your door (and very likely low, or no, duties/taxes), you could buy a pair of the C&J Handgrade shoes. These are very fine shoes--far superior to the Zegna and Ferragamo models you have indicated, and light years better than the A-Es. But about the same price, or considerably less, that you would pay for these other brands. Of the Handgrades on PLal's site, my choice for your situation might be the Savile, a monk shoe. The Aintree--if you could get it in brown--would be nice too. The Weymouth is just a great shoe, but might be a touch too dressy for your needs.

    For around $400 Cdn., you could get a pair of the Regular line C&Js. Here, the Highbury, Dartmouth, Malvern, and Chalfont would be, I think, good choices. The Onslow is a very nice shoe and could be had with Dainite sole (a very fine rubber sole that does not make the shoe look clunky) for about $435, or in shell cordovan leather for about $565 (all prices delivered to your door). The latter is a really spectacular shoe (I bought a pair from PLal), with a double leather sole. Shell cordovan is considered by most forumers as really really nice and provides a unique look. With that, you'd go for the burgundy color.

    If you know your correct A-E size, converting to the right C&J size is not too difficult. If you have a medium-width foot, you should be fine. The C&Js will only be available in the UK E-fitting, which corresponds to the North American D width. Thus, if a pair of A-Es in 10D fits well, for example, a pair of C&Js in 9E UK would fit about the same. If you wanted to go the C&J route, you could get good advice re fit on this forum (or PM me) and particularly from Shyam Doshi at PLal.
     
  12. DaveDr89

    DaveDr89 Senior member

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    +1 RE the comments on C&J versus Zegna ... when I was in a similar position I almost bought some Ferragamo's and am very happy that I didn't

    +1 on the Savile as well ...
     
  13. contaygious

    contaygious Senior member

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    San Francisco and Vancouver, B.C.
    Yeah it rains here a ton! I've only been here for 2 years and I already hate the rain. Actually, that is partly why I bought these initially because I though the rubber would be better for walking in the rain
    [​IMG]

    C&J ones do look nice, but I am not a fan of duties and I currently wear a 12 and 1/2 in the above shoes which C&J doesn't go up to. I'm 6'9 185 so not sure if I need a single or double sole. Rubber would probably be a better option since I walk to and from work. It would be nice if the shoes went with slacks and linens and jeans because I would rather buy a black pair and a brown pair then two different style brown pairs. I don't currently wear slacks, but would like to start wearing mine.

    I do like the onslow burgundy shell cordovan though. I think it's the color that I like so much. Maybe I should head to the store to try on some 12s in AE to see if I could pull it off and consider ordering.

    What about the Shelton? I perticulary like that as well. Could I not pull off the split toe? What about a cap toe? I still do kinda like the zegnas. Maybe it's the color I like, but as you say darker is better for jeans.


    Thanks for everyone's help so far!

    Oh and the savile does look pretty nice, but not sure I am a fan of monk shoes. I guess they are just different for me and I like having laces. I do like the mink calf suede.
     
  14. contaygious

    contaygious Senior member

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  15. Roger

    Roger Senior member

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    C&J ones do look nice, but I am not a fan of duties and I currently wear a 12 and 1/2 in the above shoes which C&J doesn't go up to.
    Well, I'm not sure that's true in that the sizes noted on the PLal website for C&J go up to size 12 UK, which is about a 13 in the US system. Thus, if you mean you're a 12 1/2 US, then you should be OK. Re duties, keep in mind that you pay them one way or another. If you buy Zegna shoes, the duties have already been paid by the seller and the cost is passed along to you. With PLal, very few buyers that I've known about have had to pay much in duties and taxes.

    Edit: Re the Shelton, it's a lot like the Onslow (same Norwegian-toe form, same last), and there's nothing about the split-toe feature that would present any kind of problem. However, it's different in a couple of ways. First, it's available in black in what C&J calls cavalry calf, which is a euphemism for corrected-grain leather (which you don't want, although it's better in black than it is in other colors), or in something they call dark brown antique nubuck. I haven't seen this, but don't think I'd like it, as it is not the usual nubuck with some nap, I believe, maybe more of an oiled nubuck (perhaps someone else can clarify this). Also, it has a storm welt, which I don't like particularly in a shoe that has to serve at least some dress function, as it makes the shoe a little bulkier.

    For these reasons, if I were leaning towards a Norwegian-toe shoe, of the two C&Js, I'd choose the Onslow--either the brown scotch grain with the Dainite sole or the shell cordovan (burgundy) with the double sole. Both would be excellent in the Vancouver rain!
     
  16. contaygious

    contaygious Senior member

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    Oh that's right it's UK sizes. I should be ok then thanks! Well I guess I just have to decide on some shoes then lol. I'm liking all of these. I prefer more modern and less consevative as I'm 25 and mostly wear modern sweaters and sport shirts, but all these seem to fit the bill to me (little do I know):

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  17. contaygious

    contaygious Senior member

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    Thanks so much for your help Roger. Not sure I like the graint texture so I will probably go with the burgundy. Just have to make sure I order the right size so well try some shoes on at Pacific Center first. Also, how is the comfort level on a leather vs rubber sole? If I am used to all rubber is this going to feel very uncomfortable to me?
     
  18. mishon

    mishon Senior member

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    Wow, you are a tall dude. Out of the first five pairs of shoes you posted, this, imo, is the best one to fit your style: http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/ca...550cat10650732
    The question is, however, do you really want to blow that much money on a Zegna shoe? As Roger pointed out, you can buy far superior quality shoes for almost half the price. On a side note, Zegna runs big for its size, so you will need to try them in person.
     
  19. contaygious

    contaygious Senior member

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    Well the Onslows are actually more than the Zegnas at 565. I haven't seen anything close to half the price yet. As far as I have read the Dainite sole Onslows have a storm welt as well. Is that a bad thing?
     

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