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First MTM Three-Piece Suit Advice (London)

hh94

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Hi all,

I am getting married in October around London and I'm thinking about wearing a three-piece suit for the special occasion. I don't have any MTM experience, so I have been looking at a few stores around Jermyn Street and Savile Row to try on suits and speak to some people. Currently, I am strongly considering two options: Richard James and Cad & the Dandy. I would love to hear your opinions on these brands and any other suggestions you might have.

For context, my budget is under £3,000, and I'm considering wool (flannel) material in olive colour. Not sure if this matters, but I'm 5'10", and for most suits I have tried, the shoulders and chest (38") fit nicely, but they all look baggy in the waist area. From this, I gather that I have a standard chest/shoulders build but a slimmer-than-usual waist.

Richard James has quoted around £2,500 for a three-piece MTM suit with the mentioned material and color, while Cad & the Dandy have quoted around £3,000 for a bespoke version. Just to clarify, I don't think I need bespoke tailoring, but from what I understand, it seems Cad & the Dandy only offer off-the-rack and bespoke, not MTM. However, I'm not very creative and will probably just go for their house style (since I like it on me) with minor variations. As such, while it is technically bespoke tailoring, I am thinking of treating it as an enhanced version of MTM instead. Please let me know if this is a silly way of thinking—I'm still very new to this.

Does anyone have any opinions on these brands and which one I should go for?

Alternatively, I am very open to any other suggestions. A few places I have tried, but didn't like how it looks on me (though I couldn't pinpoint why), include:
  • Ozwald Boateng
  • Hackett
  • Ede & Ravenscroft (my impression is that it looks too structured on me, but honestly, I'm not very good at picking out what I like/dislike in a suit)
Note: I am aware that Cad & the Dandy outsource some parts of the process to India, which helps them offer cheaper bespoke tailoring services.
 

TheIronDandy

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Oct 20, 2020
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I'm a long-time customer of Cad&the Dandys Swedish sister company (suits are cut on Savile Row and tailored in Cad's indian workshop, but final alterations done in Sweden), and I'm extremely happy with the results they have delivered. Quality is high - I can't speak to the level of finishing (as I haven't used any other bespoke makers) but over years of weekly wear, the only issues I've ever experiences was a button needing fastening. The tailoring in India is supervised by Savile Row trained tailors, and India has a long, active tradition of tailoring, so you're getting skilled craftspeople.

Again, since I haven't used the UK side of the business I can't speak of how they handle customer relationships, but the interactions I've had with their Swedish site has been extremely good. The times I've had issues with something they made (buttoning points ending up wrong - I'm very particular about this) they've fixed it free of charge, even when it involved significant re-makes of a jacket.

I agree you should go for the house style for your first order: Cad is very flexible and can make you almost anything you want, but that doesn't mean you should; I definitely have some very hard-to-wear things because I got carried away with "unique details" that really didn't add anything. Cads house style is pretty neutral, and will work for almost any situation.

I would suggest that you consider how flexible an olive fabric will be - a bespoke suit is something you can wear for years to come, and olive is less all-around than the classic navy and grey. It's not a huge deal though - a dark olive will work for everything but the most formal events, and if you like the color (and perhaps more important, if your PARTNER likes it) that's what really matters for a wedding.

Finally, congratulations on your upcoming wedding, and be warned: the bespoke experience can be addictive. Maybe caution your partner that you may end up getting more suits than would be advisable - as the old saying almost goes: "Once you go bespoke, you usually go broke!"
 

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