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First MTM suit

Discussion in 'Menswear Advice' started by Cailet, Feb 27, 2019.

  1. Cailet

    Cailet Member

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    Just want to see what you guys think of this. Had some trouble with the measurements at first but Lanieri sorted ne out peetty well I thibk. I'm pretty happy with it but wonder if the arms might be a touch long. Apologies for mediocre photo.

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  2. Jan Capek

    Jan Capek Well-Known Member

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    Hi, it is always difficult to judge from one picture. It looks nice, but def the sleeves are too long, and one has to speculate about the shoulder width and (without shoes) the leg length. Still, I applaud your choice of style (double breasted, hemmed legs).

    I am curious to know how your tailor will approach the sleeves. The location of your sleeve buttons will make it difficult to shorten them, and I think the buttons will need to be repositioned (are they functional, btw?). My belief is that they should have been attached only after proper sleeve length had been determined.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2019

  3. Cailet

    Cailet Member

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    What do you think is off about the shoulders? I was pretty happy with the line there. I think the cuffs are functional so that might need some care taking. I'm used to rtw being too short tbh.
     

  4. Cailet

    Cailet Member

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    Ok, got some more pictures, courtesy of my fiancee. I'm pretty happy with the trousers but the bottom of the jacket has a lot of hanging threads and the breasts don't seem to line up at the bottom. Not sure what's to be done there :/o

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  5. breakaway01

    breakaway01 Distinguished Member

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    The jacket is a little boxier than I'd prefer. IMO it is harder to get a great fit with a DB jacket than with a SB jacket. I think it'd probably look better if it were trimmer throughout, while still maintaining some waist suppression.

    Also I think you would have been better off with side vents, not a center vent.

    Agree with the sleeves being too long.The trousers do not hang cleanly. Not sure how much of this is simply their being too long or if there is another issue that needs fixing.
     

  6. Jan Capek

    Jan Capek Well-Known Member

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    It certainly isn't perfect, but expectations should be managed for MTM. Strong points: The chest, the front mid section, generally the silhouette. Weaker points: The sleeve length (manageable, with all I had said about the cuff buttons), the leg length (I would have them shortened, though given some of the "hanging" in the back I am wondering - are you wearing the trousers without a belt, or is the waist looser than it should be?). As for the back, this is typically the best indicator of the tailoring. The upper traps seem to be fine with no collar roll present. A collar gap cannot be assessed, but there does not appear to be one either. Moving down, there is some excessive cloth on the armpit level. This is also confirmed by the vertical creases in the middle (this is not a bullet-proof rule, but often times vertical creases = too much cloth, horizontal creases = too little). I've seen worse, though. The midsection is okay for me, though today's young men would prefer a tighter fit (I am not sure this will be easily done, given the wider mid-upper back). I do have a few quite suppressed jackets, but there I always insist on having the sleeves narrowed. To my mind (and eye) there is nothing sadder about a suit than a tight body contrasted with RTW sleeves that flap in the wind and crease when calm. The bottom hangs nicely, there is no "hidden tail". Like breakaway's, mine would be a preference for side vents, but you probably knew what you were doing.

    As for the unequal length from the front, I cannot imagine why this is so. There might be a sartorial reason for that, but I am not familiar with any rule that would mandate it. In fact, you had me run to my closet and try on my few double breasted items to explore. They are all "levelled". I am perplexed.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2019

  7. Cailet

    Cailet Member

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    Thanks guys, I'll get back to them about it.

    Re: trousers, I'm not wearing a belt, there are cinch straps at the side but I've lost a fair bit of weight since ordering. I'll try with suspenders and see what happens.
     

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