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First MTM Suit - Mix & Match advise needed!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by wjenks, Sep 26, 2016.

  1. wjenks

    wjenks Active Member

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    Hi everyone,

    My local tailor here in Dublin, Louis Copeland is hosting a number of Made To Measure events in two weeks and I've booked myself in for one of the days.

    It's my first MTM Suit and I'm looking for some advice - I'm really keen to get a Navy or Grey windowpane or Brown suit but what I'm really looking for is something that I can mix up throughout the year, with different trousers or even waistcoats.

    Is there any particular design/pattern that works best?

    Regards,
    William
     


  2. Academic2

    Academic2 Distinguished Member

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    I you want a suit jacket that can double as an odd jacket consider getting hip patch pockets. Other factors being equal avoid solid worsteds which are usually too suit-like to pass as an odd jacket.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     


  3. wjenks

    wjenks Active Member

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    Thanks a million @Academic2 like the sound of the hip patch pockets idea!
     


  4. BigBadBernard

    BigBadBernard Senior Member

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    There are a couple of blue windowpanes in the Harrisons Regency bunch that might work quite well. It is quite a light cloth (10oz or so) but not so light that it won't be versatile.

    I would go with blue, because a grey odd jacket is less useful, whilst a brown suit would only be appropriate if you work in a library.

    Personally I wouldn't go down route of the patch pockets on a suit jacket. It would make it work nicely as an odd jacket, but looks wrong (and frankly just too iGenty) on a suit. You can dial down the formality slightly by having slant pockets and a small ticket pocket on the right hand side - that won't look wrong in a suit, and will make the jacket look less of an orphan when worn on its own (which anyway will be helped by being a windowpane).
     


  5. Academic2

    Academic2 Distinguished Member

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    Does Louis Copeland carry these?

    Cheers,

    Ac
     


  6. Academic2

    Academic2 Distinguished Member

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    You're a brave man, saying this on Style Forum. [​IMG]

    Cheers,

    Ac
     


  7. BigBadBernard

    BigBadBernard Senior Member

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    Don't know the tailor myself, but most decent UK or RoI tailors will have a very healthy selection of Harrisons.

    As for patches, I stick to requesting them for odd jackets. To be honest, a 'blazer suit' is a pretty difficult thing to pull off in the design and fabric selection - there will always be compromises. Best to decide if there will be a predominant use and design around that, so long as it doesn't involve making choices that are too barbarous!
     


  8. wjenks

    wjenks Active Member

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    Not to sure in all honesty but will find out and keep you posted.
     


  9. Academic2

    Academic2 Distinguished Member

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  10. wjenks

    wjenks Active Member

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    @BigBadBernard thanks for the tips, really appreciate it!

    What's your thoughts on a waistcoat with a windowpane suit actually?
     


  11. Academic2

    Academic2 Distinguished Member

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    I've seen it done in tweed.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     


  12. Academic2

    Academic2 Distinguished Member

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    Last edited: Sep 26, 2016


  13. BigBadBernard

    BigBadBernard Senior Member

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    I wouldn't have a waistcoat on any suit that was not very formal (i.e. plain blue or grey or a pinstripe). If you are making the jacket one that can be worn odd as well as part of a suit, then it is going to be on the less formal side, so I think the styling would clash with a w/coat and end up looking a bit of a mess.

    Personally, with ref to Ac's point above, I think three piece tweed suits are tantamount to costume / passing off and would be met with howls of laughter in polite society in the UK, but I guess it takes all sorts...
     


  14. Academic2

    Academic2 Distinguished Member

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    That's fine as an expression of personal preference, to which you are certainly entitled. But I'm not sure how helpful it is to the OP.

    As I said, he knows best the norms of dress appropriate to the contexts in which he'll be wearing the suit/jacket. The rest of us are just here to help him review options.[​IMG]

    Cheers,

    Ac
     


  15. BigBadBernard

    BigBadBernard Senior Member

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    I thought it was fairly helpful myself, adding context to my view (yes, I accept that rules of dress are not like the laws of physics) that three-piece suits are formal things, hence, appropriate for a formal pinstripe suit, less appropriate for a blazer suit (however so defined) and absurd in a tweed suit.
     


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