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First MTM suit, looking for advice on fabric

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by IJReilly, Feb 13, 2012.

  1. IJReilly

    IJReilly Senior member

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    Stockholm
    Hello,

    I am having my first MTM suit made. It will probably be a Mabro. Other options are Belvest and Corneliani but historically I have preferred the fit and style from Mabro over the others. Pricing is also slightly more attractive, but that is less of a concern.

    I am fairly certain about the style. It will be a classic two button solid worsted navy with a slim cut and as soft of a shoulder as I can manage.

    What I am looking for advice on is the choice of fabric. Is there anything else too think about aside from the fact that I want a solid worsted navy? I understand that it is not advisable to go beying 120 due to concerns over durability. Are there different weaves etc? Any advice from exerienced members?
     
  2. IJReilly

    IJReilly Senior member

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    Location:
    Stockholm
    I do not wear suits in my day to day life. I get away with a jacket, trousers and a tie. This suit is intended for more formal gatherings (rare in my case), formal business meetings and any future job interviews. I want to look conservative and classy but not stuffy or stiff.
     
  3. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    You know pretty much everything you need, when you have the appointment make sure you ask him the fabric brands.

    Also you might want to add a extra waistcoat because you will essentially two outfits

    NICE
     
  4. IJReilly

    IJReilly Senior member

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    I don´t think I would ever wear a waistcoat, but I will consider it.

    What brands am I supposed to be on the lookout for? I am completely ignorant. However, my guess is that a tailor like Mabro would only supply good options.
     
  5. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    In terms of fabric, follow the brands which SF member uses, there is plenty suggestion in the cloth thread.

    Just ask the tailor, he will be able to advise on it, do not worry too much

    Top Drawer:
    Holland and Sherry
    Scabal
    Zenga 15 mil 15 or 17 mil 17
    LP 'Wish' s170

    Good:
    JJ minnis
    JOHN G. HARDY
    LP 4 season
    Harrison

    Average:
    VBC

    In terms of waistcoat, perhaps I am just too british, I find showing shirts are vulgar, Unless the weather is too hot I 9/10 times wears a waistcoat, even with DB. Probably just a background and cultural thing
     
  6. Tailor Dan

    Tailor Dan Senior member

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    Did you sort this out? Wished to know what you had thought of meeting with Mabro? Seemed like you did know what you wanted and should be easy to convey to the tailor.

    Nothing wrong with 120's if you want trike and durable but will probably show wrinkles and sut imperfections more then say 100's. Fabric is always pretty good and are available to the world so rare to get bad stuff unless off the rack nowadays.

    For future advice check my blog out. Hope it helps.

    http://gentlemansgent.blogspot.com/
     
  7. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    No Dormeuil? Come on!
     
  8. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

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  9. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Senior member

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    I have 3.5 meters of old stock new H.Lesser in navy nailhead if your interested :)
     
  10. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    What about H lesser? This list is not complete.
     
  11. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Surely 4 metres for a suit?
     
  12. habanos

    habanos Senior member

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    What about Dugdale Bros?
     
  13. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    The list is not conclusive, sorry guys but feel free to add it on
     
  14. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    They have quiet a range of fabric, but I would rank them slightly higher than 'Good'

    I am probably going to be biased
     
  15. IJReilly

    IJReilly Senior member

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    There were some problems with updating Mabro´s fabric selection in the store, but i was just there. I had a very difficult time settling on a shade of blue. It seems to me that fabrics appear lighter in tone when they are in the form of a suit, as opposed to a fabric swatch. Is this correct? One Guabello fabric looked absolutely perfect as a swatch, but when they showed me a suit in similar tone it appeared much too light for the rather formal uses I envision.

    Thank you for the link. I will read with great interest.
     
  16. Tailor Dan

    Tailor Dan Senior member

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    Hi IJReilly

    Yes, it can come out a little different from swatches so always expect a shade difference even if a very small one. Have to say, is rare, but expect it sometimes.

    I would say that generally a med or light swatch will a lot of the time come out lighter as it is in a whole suit rather than a folder or booklet. But then again it is normally just lighter shades that can catch you out but am always warning clients that a med grey or blue grey will be more summery then they expect.

    When will you have the suit ready?


    http://gentlemansgent.blogspot.com/
     
  17. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Why?
     

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