First MTM Shirt Blues.... (sniff....)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ChaosSmurf, Feb 1, 2013.

  1. ChaosSmurf

    ChaosSmurf New Member

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    {first post}

    So I've got the blues - and I'm not referring to the colour of my new shirt (though it is blue). I have 17.5 neck and 25-26 arms, but my chest is closer to 42-43 chest than the 45-47 that manufacturers typically chose this size.

    Basically, I want a "slim-to-regular" kind of fit, which means I have been mostly buying OTR shirts (Banana Republic, Gap, CK) and getting them tailored, to varying degrees of success. (I thought of getting a Ledbury 17.5/XL and getting it taken in...)

    Anyway, I went with a local tailor who charged $160 for a MTM using some gorgeous 100s Testa that he had in stock. The finished shirt is beautiful on the hanger and looks great when I'm standing up: Hugs my body and accentuates the V of my chest. Feels superb around my shoulders, and FINALLY I have sleeves that are just right. But there is NO slack in the torso: It pulls noticeably when I sit, and if I raise my arms way above my head, the shirt rises and I have to pull it back down to set it right.

    Also, I stupidly agreed to a monogram, but the shirtmaker messed up my first initial! I was going to ask him to either remove it and/or flip the cuff (which I understand might be possible), but I fear the shirt is basically a write-off, given the torse issue... I don't see much extra fabric inside at the side seams, so I'm sure he'll tell me there's nothing to be done :( I asked for a slim fit, but this seems more like a skinny, which is not right for me at all since I'm pretty solid (6"2, 205 lbs). I guess I could easily wear it for a night out or a standing event, but no way can I handle 8 hours at a desk wearing something this tight with so little give in the fabric.

    I'm trying to be philosophical about the whole thing, thinking I can really get it "right" by adding an 1-2 inches in the chest and waist to get to perfection. But my money is spent and it's *so* close to the shirt I want...

    Anyone else had a similar experience? Is this how it is with a first MTM shirt? Did you learn to live with it or did you eventually find your perfect fit?
     


  2. usctrojans31

    usctrojans31 Senior member

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    If you have to re-tuck the shirt after raising your hands, the armholes are too low.
     


  3. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    I mean...you're going to need more than 1 shirt, right? Generally the first one isn't perfect. That's why you do one at a time until its just right before ordering a bunch.

    I realize $160 is a non-trivial amount for a shirt, but some trial and error is inevitable.
     


  4. ChaosSmurf

    ChaosSmurf New Member

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    Sorry, the shirt length is perfect: 32.5, so the tails never come out. The problem is that when the chest rises, it doesn't fall, because it's too tight.
     


  5. bant

    bant Senior member

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    go back to tailor and have him fix issues for your 2nd order. initial test shirt will never be perfect. if there are very significant obvious issues stemming from a mismeasurement, you should receive another shirt or discount on subsequent order IMO.
     


  6. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    Yes, tell the tailor you are very unsatisfied and that you want another two or three shirts with the issues corrected, but at a discount. Say, buy three, get one free.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2013


  7. usctrojans31

    usctrojans31 Senior member

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    Armholes and length are not the same. The armhole should be right against your armpit so that you get 360 degree mobility.
     




  8. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Senior member

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    Are you saying that you want the shirt to have two different fits: standing fit and seated fit? You should have mentioned that during the fitting. I'm sure that your tailor could have traded that "gorgeous Testa" for a more suitable, molecule reconfiguring fabric....something like the stuff used for Batman's cape.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2013


  9. bubba04

    bubba04 Senior member

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    +1
     


  10. bubba04

    bubba04 Senior member

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    Yes.


    Not unusual.


    The latter.
     


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