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First MTM Shirt Blues.... (sniff....)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ChaosSmurf, Feb 1, 2013.

  1. ChaosSmurf

    ChaosSmurf New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2013
    {first post}

    So I've got the blues - and I'm not referring to the colour of my new shirt (though it is blue). I have 17.5 neck and 25-26 arms, but my chest is closer to 42-43 chest than the 45-47 that manufacturers typically chose this size.

    Basically, I want a "slim-to-regular" kind of fit, which means I have been mostly buying OTR shirts (Banana Republic, Gap, CK) and getting them tailored, to varying degrees of success. (I thought of getting a Ledbury 17.5/XL and getting it taken in...)

    Anyway, I went with a local tailor who charged $160 for a MTM using some gorgeous 100s Testa that he had in stock. The finished shirt is beautiful on the hanger and looks great when I'm standing up: Hugs my body and accentuates the V of my chest. Feels superb around my shoulders, and FINALLY I have sleeves that are just right. But there is NO slack in the torso: It pulls noticeably when I sit, and if I raise my arms way above my head, the shirt rises and I have to pull it back down to set it right.

    Also, I stupidly agreed to a monogram, but the shirtmaker messed up my first initial! I was going to ask him to either remove it and/or flip the cuff (which I understand might be possible), but I fear the shirt is basically a write-off, given the torse issue... I don't see much extra fabric inside at the side seams, so I'm sure he'll tell me there's nothing to be done :( I asked for a slim fit, but this seems more like a skinny, which is not right for me at all since I'm pretty solid (6"2, 205 lbs). I guess I could easily wear it for a night out or a standing event, but no way can I handle 8 hours at a desk wearing something this tight with so little give in the fabric.

    I'm trying to be philosophical about the whole thing, thinking I can really get it "right" by adding an 1-2 inches in the chest and waist to get to perfection. But my money is spent and it's *so* close to the shirt I want...

    Anyone else had a similar experience? Is this how it is with a first MTM shirt? Did you learn to live with it or did you eventually find your perfect fit?
     
  2. usctrojans31

    usctrojans31 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    

    If you have to re-tuck the shirt after raising your hands, the armholes are too low.
     
  3. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Washington, DC
    I mean...you're going to need more than 1 shirt, right? Generally the first one isn't perfect. That's why you do one at a time until its just right before ordering a bunch.

    I realize $160 is a non-trivial amount for a shirt, but some trial and error is inevitable.
     
  4. ChaosSmurf

    ChaosSmurf New Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2013
    Sorry, the shirt length is perfect: 32.5, so the tails never come out. The problem is that when the chest rises, it doesn't fall, because it's too tight.
     
  5. bant

    bant Senior member

    Messages:
    320
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2006
    go back to tailor and have him fix issues for your 2nd order. initial test shirt will never be perfect. if there are very significant obvious issues stemming from a mismeasurement, you should receive another shirt or discount on subsequent order IMO.
     
  6. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Frankfurt, Germany
    Yes, tell the tailor you are very unsatisfied and that you want another two or three shirts with the issues corrected, but at a discount. Say, buy three, get one free.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2013
  7. usctrojans31

    usctrojans31 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Dec 12, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    

    Armholes and length are not the same. The armhole should be right against your armpit so that you get 360 degree mobility.
     
  8. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member

    Messages:
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    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    photos would be helpful
     
  9. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Senior member

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    Sep 15, 2012
    Are you saying that you want the shirt to have two different fits: standing fit and seated fit? You should have mentioned that during the fitting. I'm sure that your tailor could have traded that "gorgeous Testa" for a more suitable, molecule reconfiguring fabric....something like the stuff used for Batman's cape.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2013
  10. bubba04

    bubba04 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2010
    Location:
    Hotlanta
    

    +1
     
  11. bubba04

    bubba04 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2010
    Location:
    Hotlanta
    

    Yes.


    Not unusual.


    The latter.
     

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