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First MTM Shirt Blues.... (sniff....)

ChaosSmurf

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{first post}

So I've got the blues - and I'm not referring to the colour of my new shirt (though it is blue). I have 17.5 neck and 25-26 arms, but my chest is closer to 42-43 chest than the 45-47 that manufacturers typically chose this size.

Basically, I want a "slim-to-regular" kind of fit, which means I have been mostly buying OTR shirts (Banana Republic, Gap, CK) and getting them tailored, to varying degrees of success. (I thought of getting a Ledbury 17.5/XL and getting it taken in...)

Anyway, I went with a local tailor who charged $160 for a MTM using some gorgeous 100s Testa that he had in stock. The finished shirt is beautiful on the hanger and looks great when I'm standing up: Hugs my body and accentuates the V of my chest. Feels superb around my shoulders, and FINALLY I have sleeves that are just right. But there is NO slack in the torso: It pulls noticeably when I sit, and if I raise my arms way above my head, the shirt rises and I have to pull it back down to set it right.

Also, I stupidly agreed to a monogram, but the shirtmaker messed up my first initial! I was going to ask him to either remove it and/or flip the cuff (which I understand might be possible), but I fear the shirt is basically a write-off, given the torse issue... I don't see much extra fabric inside at the side seams, so I'm sure he'll tell me there's nothing to be done :( I asked for a slim fit, but this seems more like a skinny, which is not right for me at all since I'm pretty solid (6"2, 205 lbs). I guess I could easily wear it for a night out or a standing event, but no way can I handle 8 hours at a desk wearing something this tight with so little give in the fabric.

I'm trying to be philosophical about the whole thing, thinking I can really get it "right" by adding an 1-2 inches in the chest and waist to get to perfection. But my money is spent and it's *so* close to the shirt I want...

Anyone else had a similar experience? Is this how it is with a first MTM shirt? Did you learn to live with it or did you eventually find your perfect fit?
 

usctrojans31

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{first post}
ho charged $160 for a MTM using some gorgeous 100s Testa that he had in stock. The finished shirt is beautiful on the hanger and looks great when I'm standing up: Hugs my body and accentuates the V of my chest. Feels superb around my shoulders, and FINALLY I have sleeves that are just right. But there is NO slack in the torso: It pulls noticeably when I sit, and if I raise my arms way above my head, the shirt rises and I have to pull it back down to set it right. 


If you have to re-tuck the shirt after raising your hands, the armholes are too low.
 

ChaosSmurf

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If you have to re-tuck the shirt after raising your hands, the armholes are too low.

Sorry, the shirt length is perfect: 32.5, so the tails never come out. The problem is that when the chest rises, it doesn't fall, because it's too tight.
 

bant

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go back to tailor and have him fix issues for your 2nd order. initial test shirt will never be perfect. if there are very significant obvious issues stemming from a mismeasurement, you should receive another shirt or discount on subsequent order IMO.
 

Veremund

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Yes, tell the tailor you are very unsatisfied and that you want another two or three shirts with the issues corrected, but at a discount. Say, buy three, get one free.
 
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usctrojans31

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Sorry, the shirt length is perfect: 32.5, so the tails never come out. The problem is that when the chest rises, it doesn't fall, because it's too tight. 


Armholes and length are not the same. The armhole should be right against your armpit so that you get 360 degree mobility.
 

VinnyMac

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Are you saying that you want the shirt to have two different fits: standing fit and seated fit? You should have mentioned that during the fitting. I'm sure that your tailor could have traded that "gorgeous Testa" for a more suitable, molecule reconfiguring fabric....something like the stuff used for Batman's cape.
 
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