First MTM in NYC?

[Brothersport]

As an SWD member a long time ago who's getting married in almost exactly 3 months, I'd love some help with potentially jumping into the MTM pool for the first time for my wedding suit. I just have a couple old RTW suits off Yoox or Barneys or something like that.

I think I'm leaning towards a blue-navy suit w/ wider peak lapels and a highish gorge, hopefully in a pattern that has a bit of visual interest like a nailhead or something like that. I'm picturing something like https://nomanwalksalone.com/clothing/suits/navy-nailhead-suit-in-holland-sherry-wool-12-oz.html. I do prefer a slightly modern, slimmer/tapered fit.

I'm 5'10" ~160 and 38" chest 32" waist, slightly pear-shaped, but nothing too difficult when it comes to fitting.

Budget: I'm looking to come in less than 3k for everything included. And my wedding is on 5/23, so that might be a limiting factor.

Really I'm looking for advice as to: whether MTM is really indicated and where to go if so. When researching here, I've seen suggestions for places like Winston Tailors, the Armoury, Mr. Ned, and traveling tailors, but I'm not sure how to proceed given time constraints, my budget, and my style preference.

Any advice is appreciated, thanks.

 

[bry2000]

Go visit each of the places you mentioned. See what they offer, prices, and whether they can comfortably meet your timeline.

Candidly, with your measurements, you should have no problem with RTW and may end up happier in the end since MTM is a big of a crapshoot.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

You have basically 10-12 weeks time. MTM can be a crapshoot especially with adjustments and tweaks when the garment comes back. I would definitely stay away from online as you may as well light your money on fire.

With your budget you should be able to find really good off the rack and have it tailored to you. A couple of places that comes to mind are Zegna and Paul Stuart.

Your dimensions aren’t that extreme so fitting you shouldn’t be an issue. It’s more a matter of stylistic choices and fabric and whether you’ll find that combo with RTW.

Right now Paul Stuart is having their made to measure event. Explain your situation and see if they can make it work for you. I’m a long time PS customer here in Chicago and the service and quality has always been fantastic.

 

[bdavro23]

Go visit each of the places you mentioned. See what they offer, prices, and whether they can comfortably meet your timeline.

Candidly, with your measurements, you should have no problem with RTW and may end up happier in the end since MTM is a big of a crapshoot.

While the measurements proportionally should be relatively easy to fit, they are 2 dimensional. Things like posture are nearly impossible to correct for in a finished garment and make a big impact on the fit of a garment.

With that said, if he can find what he wants RTW and it fits well, thats the way to go.

 

[bdavro23]

Another data point to consider: The Coronavirus is likely going to have an impact on most MTM offerings, so the timing of getting your suit may be delayed. While I wouldnt exclude MTM for a special event, time is of the essence.

 

[Brothersport]

Appreciate the replies, everyone. Definitely did not consider coronavirus having an impact. Do you guys feel that house styling/cut makes a big impact when it comes to possible MTM? Not that mine is so extreme, but not sure if that should lead me to exclude any possible places.

 

[norMD]

This is a good read from putthison.

I think you should look at RTW. The suit you showed looks nice. As the wedding is in May I would consider a spring/summer fabric like fresco or VBC 4-ply. As you have a deadline it will be sad if your suit is not ready. And currently there is a lot of covid-19 in china and Italy. Two places known for making suits.

 

[bry2000]

Appreciate the replies, everyone. Definitely did not consider coronavirus having an impact. Do you guys feel that house styling/cut makes a big impact when it comes to possible MTM? Not that mine is so extreme, but not sure if that should lead me to exclude any possible places.

Only you can answer that question. None of us has any idea what style you prefer.

In any event, don’t overthink house style. The most important thing is that the suit fits well. Debates over house style are more for hobbyists and obsessive Igents on message boards.

 

[dieworkwear]

Do you guys feel that house styling/cut makes a big impact when it comes to possible MTM? Not that mine is so extreme, but not sure if that should lead me to exclude any possible places.

House style is usually about the silhouette. It makes a huge difference in tailoring because how a suit looks can be a matter of centimeters.

You should choose a place based on the quality of the tailor and whether you like their house style. For MTM, I'd stop by NMWA and The Armoury. Both should have try-on suits, which will be huge in helping you see whether small adjustments on the house style can get you where you want. They're forum favorites, so often recommend, but also forum favorites for a good reason. They do good work.

 

[classicalthunde]

If I had your budget and turn around time, I'd certainly consider The Armoury. They just launched their own in-house MTM model, from my understanding you can order the in-house model 101 and the Orazio Luciano MTM at any time, whereas the Ring Jacket MTMs are only available during the trunk shows.

I am fairly certain the Armoury Model 101 and the Orazio MTMs are produced in Europe. If you consider other options outside of an established place like the Armoury, I'd confirm with them on what their delivery timelines are like with the pandemic in China and East Asia. I've already gotten an email that my most recent commission will be delayed 2 weeks due to the labor impact that the outbreak is causing

 

[Brothersport]

Thanks everyone! Will try out at least the Armoury and NMWA hopefully this weekend, maybe a few others.

 

[Proleet]

With such a timeline I honestly wouldn’t risk it. Do you really want extra stress over your suit being ready in time?

 

[Shirtmaven]

if you want to stay in NYC
my suggestions are Mr Ned, Giliberto, and i think Craig Robinson can make the suit for about
$3000

 

[classicalthunde]

With such a timeline I honestly wouldn’t risk it. Do you really want extra stress over your suit being ready in time?

good thing about a place like the Armoury is that they are pretty customer service focused andhave a number of comparable RTW options... I would imagine they would have a better gauge on delivery time and/or ability to lean on the factory to produce due to the volume of their book of business, and/or be able to make it right with a similar suit in the instance of a delay