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First made to measure suit tomorrow!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by otis, Oct 15, 2004.

  1. otis

    otis Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    I have an appointment at Brooks Brothers tomorrow to get measured for a suit by Martin Greenfield. This will be my first made to measure. I'm a 39 long and am hoping to finally get a suit that fits.

    Here's what I'm going to ask him to do: basic navy, Jacket: 2 button, British cut (side vents, suppressed waist, - I want something closer to the tight fit of an RL purple label than the typical BB), ticket pocket, working sleeve buttons. Pants: forward pleats, side ext tabs-no belt loops, 1.5 in cuffs.

    Any advice?
     
  2. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Good for you. Keep in mind, though, that there's not as much flexibility with MTM as there is with bespoke. I don't know anything about MTM Martin Greenfield at Brooks Brothers, but the suit you want isn't a typical BB suit by a long shot. Be sure that they really can do what you want, and take your business elsewhere if they can't.
     
  3. otis

    otis Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the advice. That's my main concern, I know Martin Greenfield makes suits for a wide range of designers, but don't want to get pushed into a typical BB silouette. If I have concerns I'll not go through with it. I'm in Atlanta so I can always go downstairs to Polo, but I'm thinking I'll have a better chance getting measured properly and maybe even a better MTM suit by Greenfield.
     
  4. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    how nice ..

    I suggest to take your time. Choosing fabric will be tough .. I find that finished suit look different than what I imagined from swatch sample.

    Have you ever considered top button roll-over 3 button suit like Napolian suits? Those are amazing ... It looks like 2 button without fastening top button, but becomes 3 button when top button is closed. Very elegant design.
     
  5. banksmiranda

    banksmiranda Senior member

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  6. SUPER K

    SUPER K Senior member

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  7. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Polo's Corneliani-made blue-label suits are partially fused, although they certainly do make a quality product that fits the style you're looking for. You could also do a MTM Purple Label suit made by St. Andrews, but that would be significantly more expensive.

    Other possibilities in the same general price range include regular Corneliani (which certainly does have a model similar to what you're looking for, although I haven't seen it in RTW for about a year now -- regular-label Corneliani also is not fused) and Zegna (Cardigan model only -- they won't have it in stock in RTW, but it's a soft-shoulder model with waist suppression). Both should be available at Neiman Marcus, of which I know Atlanta has one.

    Is Greenfield himself going to be on hand to do the measurements?
     
  8. otis

    otis Well-Known Member

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    Yes, the BB salesman said it is Martin who be there to take the measurements.
     
  9. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Wow, that is cool. Ask him where he personally thinks the shoulder seams should rest on your shoulder, and then report back. I personally like them just a hair past the bone, such that the seam is actually slightly narrower than the broadest part of the shoulder muscle. But Greenfield tends to cut shoulders wider than that, leading me to believe he thinks the seam should rest at least at that shoulder muscle point.
     
  10. ROI

    ROI Well-Known Member

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    Avoid a frequent mistake in selecting your cloth. A shade of navy blue that looks blue often makes up looking purple. Pick a navy with some black in it.
     
  11. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Yes. Good advice. Go with either the darkest or second darkest shade of Navy.

    Also, I was at BB the other day and saw some patterns. There is a gray with a very, very subtle blue windowpane. I think those are incredible patterns, because you really can't tell its patterned except for RIGHT up close, but yet it gives it some visual appeal. It would also go great with your cut -- which should include the three button/lapel roll to 2nd button IMO.

    That will be very Purple Labelish indeed.

    If you are going custom, go CUSTOM. I'd say don't go with navy unless you need a navy suit or some other staple. A subtle pattern is nearly as versatile as a staple suit, and just so much more unique.
     
  12. otis

    otis Well-Known Member

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    I had the fitting with Martin Greenfield this morning. It was fantastic, I can't say enough good things about it. If you read my first post, I was a little concerned whether he would agree to the style I wanted, but when I got there, the suit he was wearing was almost identical to what I described in terms of details.

    I haven't had a MTM suit before, but I can't imagine getting a better made suit at this price anywhere else. The level of detail Martin goes to is excellent, and you know right off that you're talking to a legend in this part of the business. He told some good stories while I was there, about working with Flusser on his last book, being interviewed on CBS, and others. I'm pretty sure I'll be going back in the spring for another suit if this one turns out like I expect.

    If you're in the market for a MTM, check the schedule on Brooks Brothers website. If you're in Atlanta, you can probably still get in for an appt today or tomorrow - ask for Ty Kennedy, he'll set you with Martin. BTW it comes with one MTM shirt included too. They start at $1,100, mine was about $1,400.

    Oh and thanks again for the advice above. Despite the pleas of those here and Martin himself, I stuck with a plain dark navy since my old BB navy recently wore through in the seat. I always like a plain navy, and the details I got on this suit (ticket pocket, side ext tabs, working buttons) will look great. I also went with 2-button, I agree that the soft roll 3-button looks great, but Martin leaned toward a high roll 3-button or a 2-button, and since I'm tall and thin I like the look of 2 on me. The lapels are handstitched so it will roll nicely from the top button.
     
  13. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Glad to hear about your positive experience. Please be sure to post again when you have the suit in hand.
     
  14. otis

    otis Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    Update to my original post - I picked up my Martin Greenfield suit a few weeks ago, it is fantastic. It fit nearly perfectly right off; I asked them to take in the torso about 1.5", then just 2" cuffs, 4 working buttons on the sleeves and it was good to go. The only thing I would change next time is to ask for higher armholes and slightly slimmer sleeves - not sure if Greenfield can offer a silhouette like that through BB or not. Mine fits close to the body, but there's a tad more room in the sleeves than I would like.

    It also came with a MTM shirt from BB; I got a great looking pink fabric cut slim with spread collar and double button cuffs. No pocket w/ a white monogram a few inches above the waist (white was Martin's suggestion, "don't show it off").

    Anyway, if you're in the market, I would highly recommend getting an appointment with Martin on his next tour of BB in the spring. It's a well made suit for the price (mine was $1450, they start around $1100). If you're in Atlanta see Ty Kennedy he'll take care of you.
     
  15. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Thanks for the update. Pictures?
     
  16. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    [​IMG] I'm glad that you had a lovely experience with Mr. Greenfield. Being fitted and served by him is one of the great pleasures in buying clothes. He has a wide following from his trunk shows at Brooks and the late Custom Shop. You can follow his recommendations with confidence. Good luck with your purchase.
     

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